Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Hidden Blower on a '59 Lark

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Do you have a pic of the thermostat housing? Looks like there was a clearance issue there. How did you address that?

    Comment


    • #17


      I'm jealous. I measured, to see if I could get a b&m blower under the hood of a 53 coupe, and it looks like a big old no.
      Your setup looks great.

      Comment


      • #18

        No clearance problem, just a blister-pack housing off the hook at the chrome dip-stick aisle at Advance Auto.
        Johnod, I'll measure the distance from the top of the valve covers to the top of plenum or other spot if that will help. Manifold blower flange meas. to top of plenum N/G as it sits lower than most intake manifolds.
        Blowers are great, pleasant whine noise, instant power and respect, just like 20" bicepts! (I wear long sleeves, no sleepers there....)

        Art

        '59 Lark hardtop w/355 blown sbc, 700R4, 8.8" rear w/ 3.73 gears

        Dogs are a man's best friend. Just ask my Dachshunds!

        Comment


        • #19
          Rekark

          Thanks for the offer, but I did all that, and it was a no go, the snout seemed to be the main problem as I recall, due to hood slope.

          Comment


          • #20
            Art My Lark is a 61. I have the unpolished Weiand 142 blower. Got a 4 steel inch cowl induction scoop welded to the hood. It had a crack on the underside which caused water to leach under and its now bubbling. It's a shame as it was finished with lead and a skim coat of bondo.
            Here it is with lead finished,awaiting skim of bondo.
            My motor by the casting numbers is a 400. I got it from a good friend who bought a Nova project in Tennessee. The motor was freshly rebuilt and ran great.He yanked it for a 454 since he was building a Yenko clone.I got the motor for next to nothing,threw the blower on it and slid it in. The internals are a mystery,but it has been a screamer .I would like to throw Vortec heads on it and maybe a different cam,but it is plenty of motor now,and I have some serious budget concerns right now so I will just enjoy it as is as long as I can. How is your heat issue? When it is real hot and humid my car can run warm even with a 3 row core radiator,6 blade flex fan and a shroud. I have a 180 degree thermostat. You ever pull the blower snout to change the thermostat? I wouldn't mind a 160 T stat. Do you have a electric pusher fan hidden behind the grill? If so,which brand and model fit? If I go that route,I would like to copy a proven combination rather than spend money and time foolishly. Thanks.

            Comment


            • #21
              Hey Champ Trucking, Lead filled seams? Wow, you have a lot of skill! I think the '61 is about the same hood shape, you may have been able to use a plenum like mine. The 400 siamaese cylinder block was a screamer, I had one in a C3 'Vette with 3.55 gears, 3200 lbs. wet weight, and it was one of the faster cars I've ever owened. The siamese block was noted for cooling problems back in the day, hence the 400 crank in a 350 block yielding 383 cu.in.. That combo is still extremely popular, 400+ HP, naturally aspirated. You done a lot more for cooling than I have, I have just a pusher fan in front of the radiator. It runs 180-190F down here in FL in 85-90F. Long idling in traffic, it moves up to 200+ and then I got take a side street or park it. I dont have room water pump to radiator for a fan. I looking to see if I can move the radiator 1 1/2" forward to gain more clearance for a shroud and fan. I was using just a electric fan on my 500" Caddy in another car, ran hot all the time, put the stock fan and shrould back in, problem solved. 160F t-stat shouldn't help your situation, it just lets the eng. warm up slower. If the wrong head gasket was used without the "steam holes" it'll never run cool. Alumunum heads may run a little cooler as they conduct heat better. Try running water only with a rust inhibitor, water conducts heat better than 50/50 mix. Don't remove the stat, coolant runs too fast thru the rad. If you must, get a ring to replace it or gut the innards. I wouldn't remove the blower snout, remove the 4 holddown bolts instead. remember, 10 ft.lbs. max torque. Send me a PM and I'll give you my phone no., I've got a few more things to mention.
              Art

              '59 Lark hardtop w/355 blown sbc, 700R4, 8.8" rear w/ 3.73 gears

              Dogs are a man's best friend. Just ask my Dachshunds!

              Comment


              • #22
                Hey Art,that was a good friend who did my lead work. I know about those thermostat suggestions from my early years working @ Chicago Auto Radiator but it was good to see them in print for any newbies. I had tried to return one of your emails but it bounced. Send me your number and I will call you. Thanks.

                Comment


                • #23
                  Relark -

                  You might want to rethink the Airtex fuel pump.
                  At least go to a high pressure Carter pump, and regulate it down to 7.5psi.
                  There are many electric fuel pumps on the market that will work fine, the Airtex isn't one of them. Not enough volume/pressure.

                  Mike

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Thanks for the pictures and description of your sharp car and installation.
                    It is nice that there still some of us that know to "hardtop" the car when taking pictures.


                    Gary L.
                    Wappinger, NY

                    SDC member since 1968
                    Studebaker enthusiast much longer
                    Gary L.
                    Wappinger, NY

                    SDC member since 1968
                    Studebaker enthusiast much longer

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Why did you not weld in some extra cross menbers onto the frame and wheel tub it? Them skinny tires in back are going to get you in trouble sooner then later. I am running 295 50 R 15 Daytonas on the back of Pinkie and even with them and being naturally aspirated with a bored and stroked 350 with 10.25 :1 I have to watch it to not slide the back end sideways.

                      If you car is ugly then it better be fast.....

                      65 2dr sedan
                      64 2dr sedan (Pinkie)
                      61 V8 Tcab
                      61 Tcab 20R powered
                      55 Commander Wagon
                      54 Champion Wagon
                      46 Gibson Model A
                      50 JD MC
                      If you car is ugly then it better be fast.....

                      65 2dr sedan
                      64 2dr sedan (Pinkie)
                      61 V8 Tcab
                      63 Tcab 20R powered
                      55 Commander Wagon
                      54 Champion Wagon
                      46 Gibson Model A
                      50 JD MC
                      45 Agricat
                      67 Triumph T100
                      66 Bultaco Matadore

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Champ Trucking: Phone # sent, try my e-mail lark@tampabay.rr.com
                        Mike: I used a Holley "Blue" pump on my 500 BB Caddy pushing thru the mechanical pump, reg. set at 5 PSI, only turned it on when I needed it. It only lasted 1 yr. of intermittent use. Think I should try one again?
                        Gary: Thanks for the props!
                        Studekid: I have 4" tire to spring/frame clearance. I could have some custom steelies made up. I'd like to keep the White Walls/hubcaps if possible. How wide are your "295"s. Did you have straight line control problems, or just hammerin' thru the corners? I'm probably a little older than you and have lowered testosterone which may help the sideways problem......
                        Question: I saw a post somewhere using poly bushings from a Jeep on the spring shackles. Any info on that, mine are worn out and I'm guessing the front spring are bushings too.

                        Art

                        '59 Lark hardtop w/355 blown sbc, 700R4, 8.8" rear w/ 3.73 gears

                        Dogs are a man's best friend. Just ask my Dachshunds!

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Meant to say "bushings on the front spring eye", not front springs..
                          Art

                          '59 Lark hardtop w/355 blown sbc, 700R4, 8.8" rear w/ 3.73 gears

                          Dogs are a man's best friend. Just ask my Dachshunds!

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            quote:Originally posted by ChampTrucking

                            Hey Art,that was a good friend who did my lead work. I know about those thermostat suggestions from my early years working @ Chicago Auto Radiator but it was good to see them in print for any newbies. I had tried to return one of your emails but it bounced. Send me your number and I will call you. Thanks.
                            Try my e-mail: lark@tampabay.rr.com or larkdeville@yahoo.com

                            How did you fit the 6 blade fan between the radiator and waterpump? Is there more room in a '61 Lark than the '59? Also, I'd like to discuss other issues with you about the install. Hope to hear from you soon.

                            Art

                            '59 Lark hardtop w/355 blown sbc, 700R4, 8.8" rear w/ 3.73 gears

                            Dogs are a man's best friend. Just ask my Dachshunds!

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              quote:Originally posted by Relark


                              Here's a pix of the blower, fits up tight to the hood. I had to remove the cross brace and install an extra prop rod on the driver's side. Trimming the carb plenum at the carb flange gave enough clearace under the hood. The car is completely stock from the outside down to the skinny tires and hubcaps. I'll post a pix of the car if you like, couldn't figure out how to paste two pictures at the same time from Photobucket

                              '59 Lark hardtop w/355 blown sbc, 700R4, 8.8" rear w/ 3.73 gears

                              Dogs are a man's best friend. Just ask my Dachshunds!
                              wes nordal

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                quote:Originally posted by Relark


                                Here's a pix of the blower, fits up tight to the hood. I had to remove the cross brace and install an extra prop rod on the driver's side. Trimming the carb plenum at the carb flange gave enough clearace under the hood. The car is completely stock from the outside down to the skinny tires and hubcaps. I'll post a pix of the car if you like, couldn't figure out how to paste two pictures at the same time from Photobucket

                                '59 Lark hardtop w/355 blown sbc, 700R4, 8.8" rear w/ 3.73 gears

                                Dogs are a man's best friend. Just ask my Dachshunds!
                                wes nordal

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X