Power steering problem.

[dallastx75208]

62 hawk. Not sure how to fix this problem. I seem to have fluid leaking out through my dust cover which is at the ball stud, pitman arm. The shop manual does not say much about this area.
How do I fix this problem?

[N8N]

it's probably the control valve leaking, new seals are available if it's not pitted too badly.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

[studebaker-R2-4-me]

I don't think it is leaking out where the pitman arm attaches to the control valve. That foam is just to keep dust out and yours is most likely really hard and will crumble off if picked at. The control valve is probably leaking out somewhere else and just looks like it is coming from there. I've rebuilt my control valve and they are not hard to do at all. Repair kits are available at the vendors. Foam piece does not come in the kit so order it separately.

Allen


1964 R2 GT Hawk

1963 Daytona Convertible
Oakville, Ontario.
Hamilton Chapter

[sbca96]

Some threads I made that may help your quest

Powersteering pump rebuild
http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...?TOPIC_ID=8527

Powersteering hoses (incomplete)
http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...?TOPIC_ID=9936

Powersteering Q & A
http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...?TOPIC_ID=7602

Powersteering Control Valve (incomplete)
http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...TOPIC_ID=10694

Powersteering Ram (incomplete)
http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...?TOPIC_ID=9935

Tom

'63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires

[studebaker-R2-4-me]

Yep Tom's post inspired me to rebuild my power steering system with the "what not to do" and the "what to do". The hardest part of the job is getting the control valve off the steering box. My engine was out when I did mine so it popped right off. There is lots of information in Tom's posts. Good luck




1964 R2 GT Hawk

1963 Daytona Convertible
Oakville, Ontario.
Hamilton Chapter

[sbca96]

quote:Originally posted by studebaker-R2-4-me

"what not to do"

Top of that list is "do NOT try to unscrew the grease zerk that LOOKS
like it unscrews - because it doesnt".[xx(][V][B)]

Tom

'63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires

[dallastx75208]

Thanks for the information. The bad part is I do have everything in the car. So my understanding is to remove the starter to make it easier to get to. Is that all I will need to remove? I have power brakes also, hydrovac system. Will I need to get to anyghitn from the top? Not looking forward to this project.

quote:Originally posted by studebaker-R2-4-me

Yep Tom's post inspired me to rebuild my power steering system with the "what not to do" and the "what to do". The hardest part of the job is getting the control valve off the steering box. My engine was out when I did mine so it popped right off. There is lots of information in Tom's posts. Good luck




1964 R2 GT Hawk

1963 Daytona Convertible
Oakville, Ontario.
Hamilton Chapter

[studebaker-R2-4-me]

Dallas,

My suggestion would be to read Tom's posts. He was working on a Avanti so I am not sure of the clearance issues in regards to a Hawk since my engine was out when I removed my actuator. I believe Tom found a very small puller for his Avanti and mentions where he bought his. You will have to remove the starter, drain the pump etc. You will most likely open a can of worms (wallet) and buy all new hoses, then you will want to look at your pump and rebuild that and paint it too. Just mark what hoses go where with tape and a sharpie. The ram hoses I took special note of (top and bottom) when I did mine and drew out a picture of the valve head and noted where the hoses go. Take pictures to refer to when you take it apart, step by step...something I always do when I venture into unknown territory. It's kind of neat to see how they engineered this control value. I thought it was pretty neat how the ball came off...it's kind of like a puzzle then it falls apart. There is not much to it once you get it apart. It's a simple spool valve that goes back and forth with a seal. Use clean transmission oil when you assemble it. Just keep it real clean. Wash all of the parts in varsol is a series of baths. I went out and bought 3 cheap plastic containers to clean the parts as I reassembled it. One note you should remember put the hoses on the control valve on the bench, you don't want to install those hose when your under the car, hence buy new hoses because the flare nut flats will be new. It's a job that will take you weekend if not more.

Best of luck

Allen


1964 R2 GT Hawk

1963 Daytona Convertible
Oakville, Ontario.
Hamilton Chapter

[tbredehoft]

As to access to your power steering unit....I had to remove the entire power steering unit on my '55, probably much different from a Hawk, but still a Studebaker. I pulled the grill, left front fender and power steering unit, (entire steering box) in two hours. Granted, the front clip had been off in the previous year, but really, it wasn't hard, and gave me access that I couldn't have had without removing the engine. Yes, I put new lines on it before installation.

[img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
'55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
....On the road, again....
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All Indiana built cars

[WCP]

Just order the spool valve seal kit from SI and follow the instructions to remove the back of the control valve. The seals on the spool can be replaced from under the car. With any luck, the bore will not be scored. Replace both seals noting which way they are placed on the spool. The whole job shouldn't take more than a couple hours the 1st time. As N8N points out, the leaking front seal will allow fluid to pass forward to the dust jacket area.

[dallastx75208]

I had just bought new hoses and put them on about two months ago. Everything was working till today.
Will have to read everything and get back under the car.

quote:Originally posted by studebaker-R2-4-me

Dallas,

My suggestion would be to read Tom's posts. He was working on a Avanti so I am not sure of the clearance issues in regards to a Hawk since my engine was out when I removed my actuator. I believe Tom found a very small puller for his Avanti and mentions where he bought his. You will have to remove the starter, drain the pump etc. You will most likely open a can of worms (wallet) and buy all new hoses, then you will want to look at your pump and rebuild that and paint it too. Just mark what hoses go where with tape and a sharpie. The ram hoses I took special note of (top and bottom) when I did mine and drew out a picture of the valve head and noted where the hoses go. Take pictures to refer to when you take it apart, step by step...something I always do when I venture into unknown territory. It's kind of neat to see how they engineered this control value. I thought it was pretty neat how the ball came off...it's kind of like a puzzle then it falls apart. There is not much to it once you get it apart. It's a simple spool valve that goes back and forth with a seal. Use clean transmission oil when you assemble it. Just keep it real clean. Wash all of the parts in varsol is a series of baths. I went out and bought 3 cheap plastic containers to clean the parts as I reassembled it. One note you should remember put the hoses on the control valve on the bench, you don't want to install those hose when your under the car, hence buy new hoses because the flare nut flats will be new. It's a job that will take you weekend if not more.

Best of luck

Allen


1964 R2 GT Hawk

1963 Daytona Convertible
Oakville, Ontario.
Hamilton Chapter