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WIRING HARNESS 52 CHAMPION

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  • WIRING HARNESS 52 CHAMPION

    HELLO TO ALL YOU STUDE PEOPLE. WE JUST GOT A 52 CHAMPION STARLINER, AND HAVE ALREADY REPLACED WIRE FOR LICENSE LIGHT AND PARK LIGHTS FROM SWITCH FORWARD. NEEDLESS TO SAY, ALL WIRES ARE BRITTLE/AND OR BARE. SEEMS A NEW HARNESS MAKES SENSE. ANYONE TRIED STUDE INTERNATIONAL'S HARNESS? ANY OTHER PLACES WITH GOOD COPIES? THANKS,TERRY

  • #2
    Either Studebaker International or Studebakers west. I used a SW in my 52 Commander, excellent quality, I believe that SI gets theirs from SW.

    Jim
    "We can't all be Heroes, Some us just need to stand on the curb and clap as they go by" Will Rogers

    We will provide the curb for you to stand on and clap!


    Indy Honor Flight www.IndyHonorFlight.org

    As of Veterans Day 2017, IHF has flown 2,450 WWII, Korean, and Vietnam Veterans to Washington DC at NO charge! to see
    their Memorials!

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    • #3
      I installed a new harness in my 1950 Champion. It was a Studebakers West-made harness purchased from SI. It was a perfect match to the OEM wiring diagram! Nice quality, no surprises. It is modern plastic-coated wiring, not cloth covered, as were the originals. I've never used one, but a company called Rhode Island Wiring Service supposedly makes the best original-looking harnesses. You pay $700-900 for them, though.

      1950 Champion
      W-3 4 Dr. Sedan
      Holdrege NE
      John
      1950 Champion
      W-3 4 Dr. Sedan
      Holdrege NE

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      • #4
        I bought a new harness from SI for my 1950 Commander Land cruiser. Alhtough I haven't been able to install it (too cold for my fingers to work for more than a few minutes at a time), it is well constructed and matches up to the original specs nicely.

        Just started working on a Bullet-Nose!

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        • #5
          THANK ALL OF YOU FOR YOUR INPUT. ORDERED FRONT/REAR HARNESS TODAY. THAT WAS EASY PART, LOOKING FORWARD TO REPLACEMENT PROCESS. IN LOOKING AT YOUR PAGES, CAN'T BELIEVE THE WORK THATS BEEN DONE, AND WILL BE DONE. GORGEOUS CARS ALL!! THANKS AGAIN, TERRY



          A WISE MAN SAID:
          " I KNOW YOU BELIEVE YOU UNDERSTAND WHAT YOU THINK I SAID, BUT I AM NOT SURE YOU REALIZE THAT WHAT YOU THOUGHT YOU HEARD WAS NOT WHAT I MEANT"

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          • #6
            Starliner
            Here's a tip related to replacing the wiring harness that worked well for me. I got some blue painters masking tape and a very fine pt. Sharpie and LABELED EVERY WIRE on the old harness and many on the new one by writing a description on the tape and sticking it to the wire just below the connector as I disconnected it. It was a pain to do at the time, but it helped a lot on the reinstallation! An experienced rebuilder or electrician probably wouldn't need to do this, but it really helped me.

            1950 Champion
            W-3 4 Dr. Sedan
            Holdrege NE
            John
            1950 Champion
            W-3 4 Dr. Sedan
            Holdrege NE

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            • #7
              Yeah, marking them is important. I did that, and also used the shop manual. My old cloth wires were all "grey" in color after 60 years. So marking them was very important.

              66 Commander R1 Clone
              51 Commander 4dr
              1962 Champ

              51 Commander 4 door

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              • #8
                I have done several wiring harnesses over the years. I have all the professional tools and the little stick-on labeling books with the letters and numbers. However, when removing an old harness, I use these little tags with attaching strings you can purchase from any office supply store.
                [img][/img]
                I write on, both sides, the exact location of each wire in easy to understand language. I also label them "P" side for passenger side and "D" side for driver side. That way, there is no confusion regarding the old "left or right" issue. I use the wiring schematic for "Color Coding" the new harness along with colored "Heat Shrink" tubing at the terminal ends to match the colors called for on the schematic. I will also use the stick on letters like "RTS" at the terminal end to designate "Right Turn Signal" or "FOG" if I have added wires for fog lights. It can be tedious when building a harness from "scratch." I usually build the new harness by tacking the old harness to plywood and building the new one on top of it. Instead of wrapping the new harness in a messy electrical tape loom...I use appropriate sizes and lengths of heat shrink tubing and wait until all the wires are placed and completed to apply the heat to shrink the tubing. If you take your time, and place the wires appropriately, the end result will be as neat and clean as any you could purchase. The satisfaction for a job well done and money saved is priceless.


                John Clary
                Greer, SC

                Life... is what happens as you are making plans.
                SDC member since 1975
                John Clary
                Greer, SC

                SDC member since 1975

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