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Carb spacer for Edelbrock 1403

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  • Carb spacer for Edelbrock 1403

    I'm finally getting around to replacing my WCFB with an Edelbrock 1403 500 cfm (that will sit atop my Jeff Rice converted intake).

    A while back I picked up a 1/2" spacer at a local speed shop, but didn't really examine it until today. Anyway, the stud holes are too wide apart (probably for a Holly carb?)

    So, does anyone know what 1/2" spacer brand/number is needed and where can I get one (MN) before Labor Day so I can drive my Hawk to our North Star Chapter's annual Orphan Car Show?

    BShaw,Webmaster

    60 Hawk. 49 2R5, 39 Champion
    Woodbury, Minnesota
    sigpic
    Bob Shaw
    Rush City, Minnesota
    1960 Hawk - www.northstarstudebakers.com
    "The farther I go, the behinder I get."


  • #2
    Mr. Gasket no. 97 will work, but you may need to open up the primary holes in your manifold to avoid a "step" in the wrong direction. I am using one on my LS manifold. I am not aware of an out of the box spacer that will work without mods, but if you have the ability to make stuff out of wood, a hardwood spacer would actually work pretty well. (use a gasket for a template)

    good luck,

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel

    Comment


    • #3
      You guys and your spacers, I just zing off the carb linkage part on the bottom and use the regular gasket stack.


      Studebaker On The Net
      http://stude.com
      Studebaker News Group
      http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.studebaker
      Arnold Md.
      64 Daytona HT
      63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
      63 GT Hawk
      63 Avanti R1/AC
      63 Avanti R2/4 speed
      63 Daytona HT
      63 Lark 2 dr.
      62 Lark 2 door
      62 GT(parts car)
      60 Lark convert
      60 Hawk
      52 Starliner
      51 Commander
      JDP Maryland

      Comment


      • #4
        You don't need any spacer (unless you want one) if you trim off the lower tab (GM a/t kickdown tab) on the carb linkage. You can trim on the embossed 'step' that bumps the tab out a little bit. You might also need to remove the two choke stove tubes on the other side to clear the secondary throttle linkage. Most guys just grind the two tubes off and put some JB Weld in the holes. I like to grind off the 2 tubes and run a drill bit through the tubes to remove the lower loop, then JB Weld the two holes up. Doing these two steps keeps the carb low down to avoid hood clearance issues om some C/K's and Avanti's.
        Give ma a shout and I can talk you through it.
        Jeff[8D]


        quote:Originally posted by BShaw

        I'm finally getting around to replacing my WCFB with an Edelbrock 1403 500 cfm (that will sit atop my Jeff Rice converted intake).

        A while back I picked up a 1/2" spacer at a local speed shop, but didn't really examine it until today. Anyway, the stud holes are too wide apart (probably for a Holly carb?)

        So, does anyone know what 1/2" spacer brand/number is needed and where can I get one (MN) before Labor Day so I can drive my Hawk to our North Star Chapter's annual Orphan Car Show?

        BShaw,Webmaster

        60 Hawk. 49 2R5, 39 Champion
        Woodbury, Minnesota


        DEEPNHOCK at Cox.net
        Ocala, FL.[u](For two more weeks!)</u>
        '37 Coupe Express (never ending project)
        '37 Coupe Express Trailer (project)
        '61 Hawk (project)
        http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

        HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

        Jeff


        Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



        Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

        Comment


        • #5
          I just don't like modding the carb in case I decide I want a different carb in the future; besides that little lower hole makes a handy location for a return spring

          nate

          --
          55 Commander Starlight
          http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
          --
          55 Commander Starlight
          http://members.cox.net/njnagel

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks all. I think I'll go the trimming route to maximize hood clearance. I'll also cut, drill and JB Weld the choke tubes (Thanks, Jeff... that answers another question before I aksed it!). If I experience percolation I can add a spacer later. I'll put the old intake and WCFB on a shelf in case I want to return it to orginal someday.




            BShaw,Webmaster

            60 Hawk. 49 2R5, 39 Champion
            Woodbury, Minnesota
            sigpic
            Bob Shaw
            Rush City, Minnesota
            1960 Hawk - www.northstarstudebakers.com
            "The farther I go, the behinder I get."

            Comment


            • #7
              I just tap the tube out of the way in case I want to go back to a standard choke carb at some point. The tube is a closed loop, so nothing "leaks" out.


              Studebaker On The Net
              http://stude.com
              Studebaker News Group
              http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.studebaker
              Arnold Md.
              64 Daytona HT
              63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
              63 GT Hawk
              63 Avanti R1/AC
              63 Avanti R2/4 speed
              63 Daytona HT
              63 Lark 2 dr.
              62 Lark 2 door
              62 GT(parts car)
              60 Lark convert
              60 Hawk
              52 Starliner
              51 Commander
              JDP Maryland

              Comment


              • #8
                You can do this choke tube a couple different ways if you want to keep your manifold to go back to stock.
                One is to tap the tubes down and away (like JP said), and one other way is to take the intake manifold and turn it upside down on a bench. Put a 2x4 under the exhaust crossover and take a long drift punch and place it in between the two tubes (on the bottom side). Take the punch and smack it to drive the plug (that holds the u-loop tube) upward and out the top of the manifold. This way the plug containing the u-loop tube will be preserved and can be reinstalled later if desired.

                Then you take a 5/16" carriage bolt and grind the square corners off a little bit (to fit the hole) and bolt it in so the nut is inside the crossover tube. It leaves a nice rounded cap on the outside that clears the linkage.
                (kudo's to Jim Turner for this tip)

                Hope the info helps.
                Jeff[8D]



                quote:Originally posted by BShaw

                Thanks all. I think I'll go the trimming route to maximize hood clearance. I'll also cut, drill and JB Weld the choke tubes (Thanks, Jeff... that answers another question before I aksed it!). If I experience percolation I can add a spacer later. I'll put the old intake and WCFB on a shelf in case I want to return it to orginal someday.




                BShaw,Webmaster

                60 Hawk. 49 2R5, 39 Champion
                Woodbury, Minnesota
                HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                Jeff


                Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

                Comment


                • #9
                  The carriage bolt is also a good tip. HOWEVER, my planned Studebaker day has come to a screeching halt. After getting out the cutoff tool and pumping up the compressor in mounting anticipation of whacking off the lower tab on the carb, I took the aforementioned carb out of its carton for the first time. All looked as it should for a new-in-the-box unit UNTIL I glanced at the base and saw the numbers 1406 stamped in it! Looked at the carton again and confirmed the 1403 label on it.

                  To be honest, I DID buy the carb on Ebay back in January (Nate I think you were also looking at this one) and it WAS advertised as a new-in-box 1403. And being a frugal Studebaker chap I was proud as a peacock to save 25-30 bucks under the cost at Summit.

                  Well, penny wise and pound foolish applies to yours truly. I suppose this 1406 will go back on Ebay (sold as a 1406 in a 1403 box, of course) and I'll get whatever I get (adding up to taking it in the shorts) and I'll order a 1403 from a known vendor like Summit.

                  Bobservation: Pinching a penny often results in being bitten in the a$$.

                  BShaw,Webmaster

                  60 Hawk. 49 2R5, 39 Champion
                  Woodbury, Minnesota
                  sigpic
                  Bob Shaw
                  Rush City, Minnesota
                  1960 Hawk - www.northstarstudebakers.com
                  "The farther I go, the behinder I get."

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I don't have a problem with pinching pennies! I love to spend money on my Stude and if you don't beleive it ask my wife!

                    GARY H 2DR.SEDAN 48 STUDEBAKER CHAMPION NORTHEAST MD.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Bob,

                      I actually bought a different 1403 on eBay and it turned out to be damaged. I still have the carb as the seller was a real jerk about it. The primary throttle shaft is bent and the casting is cracked on the pass side behind where the choke would go. If you want to take a chance that the primary throttle bore is OK (the crack *appears* to be in a non functional location) I'll sell it to you real cheap. I have stolen some choke related parts off of it but all the 1403-unique parts are still there (throttle blades, rods, jets, etc.)

                      nate

                      --
                      55 Commander Starlight
                      http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
                      --
                      55 Commander Starlight
                      http://members.cox.net/njnagel

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        That GM TV Cable (not a "kickdown" like Studebaker") arm is GOLD if you
                        ever decide to replace your Borg Warner with a 700-R4. The Stude uses
                        this to kick down the trans, but it will work without it. The GM uses
                        this to control line pressure, which means the 700 wont engage right.
                        This will make the car undrivable, and burn the trans in short order.
                        After years of dealing with the BW trans, and wanting to go drive my
                        newly installed 700-R4 Hawk right away, I decided to take a spin around
                        the block before I hooked up the TV Cable. Lets just say it never got
                        out of "first" gear, and over 1000 RPM would slip like crazy.

                        http://www.tciauto.com/instructions/...ble_adjust.htm



                        Tom
                        '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                        Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                        http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                        I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Thanks for the offer, Nate but I'm going to get a new'un.

                          Tom, you make a good point but as I love the 3-speed manual w/OD in my 60 Hawk I'm not a candidate for putting in a 700-R4.

                          BShaw,Webmaster

                          60 Hawk. 49 2R5, 39 Champion
                          Woodbury, Minnesota
                          sigpic
                          Bob Shaw
                          Rush City, Minnesota
                          1960 Hawk - www.northstarstudebakers.com
                          "The farther I go, the behinder I get."

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Good point Tom, but only if you have a 700R4.
                            Do you know if the 200R4 uses the same TV cable deal?
                            Reason for asking is I just traded a 700R4 for a 200R4 for a future project that currenty has a TH350 in it... and I want the OD trans to clear the X-member without cutting it....
                            Jeff[8D]


                            quote:Originally posted by sbca96

                            That GM TV Cable (not a "kickdown" like Studebaker") arm is GOLD if you ever decide to replace your Borg Warner with a 700-R4.
                            &lt;snip&gt;
                            Tom


                            DEEPNHOCK at Cox.net
                            Ocala, FL.[u](For ONE more week!)</u>
                            '37 Coupe Express (never ending project)
                            '37 Coupe Express Trailer (project)
                            '61 Hawk (project)
                            http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

                            HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                            Jeff


                            Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                            Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Yes ... the 200-4R is controled the same way, since the 700-R4 is more
                              popular (because it can be used out-of-the-box with high HP) people
                              incorrectly call the 200-4R the 200-R4. As the link I posted a quote
                              from above says, "700R4/2004R transmission has been installed that the
                              Throttle Valve (TV) Cable gets adjusted properly". Not trying to be
                              cocky, just clarifying. If you are using the 200 trans with a high
                              horsepower engine, make sure you do the common upgrades.

                              Also as an FYI .. stay clear of the per 1987 700R4 transmissions, they
                              did enough upgrades in 1988 to have called it a new transmission. GM
                              made a mistake by waiting til 1993 to call the upgraded 700, the 4L60.
                              In 1994 the trans was upgraded (slightly) to be computer controled. It
                              was then called the 4L60E. If you have a chance, this shortly used
                              4L60 (still w/ the TV Cable) would be a nice addition for an R series
                              car, or a hopped up Stude motor. Its basically a 700R4, but with a few
                              nice tweaks to make for better shifts, and longer life. It can be
                              found in 1993 Camaro Z28s and Firebird Formulas.

                              Tom
                              '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                              Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                              http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                              I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                              Comment

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