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Alternator in 63 Hawk

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  • Alternator in 63 Hawk


  • #2
    I believe you may not be able to shut the car off. The voltage sensing wire will back feed the ignition.

    I'd move the voltage sensing wire from the ignition side of the key switch to the accessory side.

    Dick Steinkamp
    Bellingham, WA

    Dick Steinkamp
    Bellingham, WA

    Comment


    • #3
      check out the harness from Speedway

      http://www.speedwaymotors.com/altern...ness,2373.html

      that's what I used on my '55 and it works perfectly. Yellow goes to ignition (if this is a standard V-8 with a resistance wire, it needs to go all the way to the key switch. On an R-engine with a ballast resistor you can run it to the switch side of the ballast if you like) and while the instructions say to jump the red to the battery terminal on the back of the alt. I prefer to extend it over to the starter solenoid to provide a better voltage reference (you want your regulator's reference voltage to be as close to the battery as possible, to compensate for voltage drop through the wiring harness.)

      Dick, I think you may be using different terminology than I do, I think of the yellow wire as the "turn on wire" (it's blue on German cars, so often it's "that $%^#@$% blue wire" - the one wire that if it fails will cause a no-charge condition WITHOUT a warning light indication...) and the red is actually the "voltage sensing wire" - the red wire doesn't need to be switched at all. The yellow turn-on wire is usually run through an idiot light, that's why you need the add-on diode, Studebakers use superior gauge based driver information technology!

      I would seriously consider running a new wire from the alternator to the ammeter and from the ammeter to the starter solenoid. I did not when I did this conversion on my '55 but a) I was using a 10SI which only puts out 63A and b) it was originally a 6V car so it used 8AWG for those wires from the factory. Possibly also insert a fusible link and/or high-amp fuse at the alternator and again at the solenoid to prevent crispiness, since originality is apparently not a factor here.

      You may find that you also need to put a shunt around the ammeter to keep from pegging it. Again, I did not, but like I said, my car was 6V and I suspect that the 6V ammeters were calibrated with a wider scale (I have what appears to be a '55 Speedster ammeter which is actually calibrated; full scale on that is 45A. Your original alternator probably put out about 35A max.)

      other than those items, you should be good to go. I suspect that the 10DN and 10SI mount the same way; I'm pretty certain that the 10SI and 12SI are interchangeable.

      One thing you may have to do is to swap the pulley for a smaller one, because the crank pulleys on Studes are smaller than those on Ch*vys, and I've found that at low idle my 10SI is barely charging. But if you're already running the 10DN you probably have that sorted already. I don't remember where I got my pulley from but they are out there. Got a good machined steel one rather than the factory stamped thing, wasn't that expensive.

      nate

      --
      55 Commander Starlight
      http://members.cox.net/njnagel
      --
      55 Commander Starlight
      http://members.cox.net/njnagel

      Comment


      • #4
        quote:Originally posted by N8N


        Dick, I think you may be using different terminology than I do, I think of the yellow wire as the "turn on wire" (it's blue on German cars, so often it's "that $%^#@$% blue wire" - the one wire that if it fails will cause a no-charge condition WITHOUT a warning light indication...) and the red is actually the "voltage sensing wire" - the red wire doesn't need to be switched at all. The yellow turn-on wire is usually run through an idiot light, that's why you need the add-on diode, Studebakers use superior gauge based driver information technology!

        Right again, Nate. It's the turn on wire I mean. You can avoid the diode thing by attaching it to the accessory side of the key switch. The existing wire from the stock VR goes to the ignition side of the key switch. If you attach the turn on wire to that, just move it to the accessory post of the KS. That way, it can't backfeed the ignition.

        The red voltage sensing wire just needs to loop back to the big post on the alternator.

        Dick Steinkamp
        Bellingham, WA

        Dick Steinkamp
        Bellingham, WA

        Comment


        • #5
          If you do a search there are a number of threads on this topic that have schematics that should help.

          http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...lco,alternator

          Dan White
          64 R1 GT
          64 R2 GT
          Dan White
          64 R1 GT
          64 R2 GT
          58 C Cab
          57 Broadmoor (Marvin)

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