In regards to my 1957 Silver Hawk frame off restoration. The car has a champion 185 flathead engine and a dana 44 limited slip differential.
The rear end is bolted to the leaf springs with 4 u-bolts that go around the axle tubes and into a "plate" on the bottom of the springs.
Extra long nuts then sandwich the springs between the lower plate and the differential. The plates that I took off the car have two "flanges" that are 90 degrees to the plate. One of these is where the lower shocks are bolted. The other was not used. I read that on some of the cars, the other flange was used for a sway bar, but I don't know.
Studebaker International sent me two plates ( a left and rt). These plates only have one flange. The lower shocks would be about 1/2 inch closer to the wheel if I use these---as the shock mount is slightly different from the ones I took off. I don't think that would be a problem. I assume I don't need both flanges--nothing was hooked to the other flange when I took them off.
The main problem is with the holes that the u-bolts go thru. They are cleared for 3/8 bolts so my u-bolts, which are 7/16-20, will not go thru the holes. Also,the hole spreads are slightly different. The u-bolts are 3 inches center to center and that would work fine if I drill out the holes, but the bolts will be closer to the leaf springs--which would be a big improvement for strength. The plates I took off were about 1/4 inch away from the spring on each side, which would put more stress on the plate when they are torqued to spec.
Now to the question:
Is this car suppose to have u-bolts that are 3/8-16 OR u-bolts that are 7/16-20? My chassis catalog shows both were used, depending on what car and when etc etc. The 3/8 u-bolts scare me a bit.
If anyone has been into this before, give me your thoughts---Thanks Dan
The rear end is bolted to the leaf springs with 4 u-bolts that go around the axle tubes and into a "plate" on the bottom of the springs.
Extra long nuts then sandwich the springs between the lower plate and the differential. The plates that I took off the car have two "flanges" that are 90 degrees to the plate. One of these is where the lower shocks are bolted. The other was not used. I read that on some of the cars, the other flange was used for a sway bar, but I don't know.
Studebaker International sent me two plates ( a left and rt). These plates only have one flange. The lower shocks would be about 1/2 inch closer to the wheel if I use these---as the shock mount is slightly different from the ones I took off. I don't think that would be a problem. I assume I don't need both flanges--nothing was hooked to the other flange when I took them off.
The main problem is with the holes that the u-bolts go thru. They are cleared for 3/8 bolts so my u-bolts, which are 7/16-20, will not go thru the holes. Also,the hole spreads are slightly different. The u-bolts are 3 inches center to center and that would work fine if I drill out the holes, but the bolts will be closer to the leaf springs--which would be a big improvement for strength. The plates I took off were about 1/4 inch away from the spring on each side, which would put more stress on the plate when they are torqued to spec.
Now to the question:
Is this car suppose to have u-bolts that are 3/8-16 OR u-bolts that are 7/16-20? My chassis catalog shows both were used, depending on what car and when etc etc. The 3/8 u-bolts scare me a bit.
If anyone has been into this before, give me your thoughts---Thanks Dan
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