How I Added Signals to my 51 Champion

[cbonner757]

I posted the photos on Photobucket at the URL below. I entered an explanation of each photo in its Comments box, but cannot see my own narrative.
Someone please tell me if I have to re-enter the commentary there after viewing from
this link:

http://s827.photobucket.com/albums/z...urn%20Signals/

Regards,
Clarence

[JimK]

The only comment I saw was on the first image in slideshow mode.

Jim K.
63 Hawk

[cbonner757]

I re-entered the photo descriptions, giving the details of how I installed after-market signals on the 6V, positive-ground 51 Champion. They work well, and I'm happy with the results--plenty bright, but I will paint the inside of the housings bright white anyway, once the weather cooperates.

This worked for me, on this car. It was simpler to add sockets in my case, especially since I could no longer tell the color codes on the wiring behind the rear bumper, where I'd need to tie in if I were to make double-duty of the existing single socket that already works the running and brake lights. I make no promises that it will work on any other car. I looked into LED, but found that I did not have the space to mount them horizontally, and LED is said to work poorly if mounted vertically (the ends need to be aimed at the viewer). The housing/bracket/pigtail assemblies from SI were around 20 bucks each, so total cost of the project was maybe 60 bucks and not many hours of work. The worst was having to grind and drill the bolt of the housing to access the screw head behind it.

Down the road, I will mount a light /turn signal bar in the back window to get the attention of modern drivers not accustomed to looking so low for lights.

I have a .pdf of the new switch wiring diagram, including the Taiwanese instruction to install it to the steering column with a "Cramp" if anyone is interested.

Regards,
Clarence

[cbonner757]

I'll post the extra pic of the 1.5 inch half-round electrical conduit bracket I used to hold the flasher. Used an existing dash screw near the ignition switch, and it went in with just the right amount of "snap." Second time in a month I bought Stude parts at Home Depot- the other was brass plumbing fittings to adapt from the water pump heater hose outlet to the heater hose elbow-- new pump arrived with a much larger hole than the old one, but ten bucks in fittings did the trick.