Treated my Hog Troughs today

[Avanti82]

I finally got around to treating my hog troughs today. Instead of painting them I used a product called Corrosion Block here is the link:

http://www.nocorrosion.com/rust-inhibitor.htm

http://www.nocorrosion.com/corrosion-control.htm

After pulling up the door kick plate and rolling back the carpet I drilled some 1/4" holes staggered along the door frame inside the screw holes for the door trim. I sprayed one full can, 12 oz inside each side thru the holes and also used the rear bottom drain hole at the bottom rear of the trough. The corrosion block really spreads and coats and I sprayed it from every angle thru the holes including the door hold down screw holes.

http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/7305/cb3b.jpg

http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/271/cb2x.jpg

I plan to do this at least twice a year. My troughs are very solid and this treatment should keep them that way for a long time. The car is always garaged and never out in the weather or driven in the rain.

Steve

[DEEPNHOCK]

Looks decent enough...
Here's a thought/question...(since I am hog trough challenged)
Why can't you fill them with foam?
Jeff[8D]

quote:Originally posted by Avanti82

I finally got around to treating my hog troughs today. Instead of painting them I used a product called Corrosion Block here is the link:
http://www.nocorrosion.com/corrosion-control.htm
After pulling up the door kick plate and rolling back the carpet I drilled some 1/4" holes staggered along the door frame inside the screw holes for the door trim. I sprayed one full can, 12 oz inside each side thru the holes and also used the rear bottom drain hole at the bottom rear of the trough. The corrosion block really spreads and coats and I sprayed it from every angle thru the holes including the door hold down screw holes.


I plan to do this at least twice a year. My troughs are very solid and this treatment should keep them that way for a long time. The car is always garaged and never out in the weather or driven in the rain.
Steve

[sweetolbob]

quote:Originally posted by DEEPNHOCK

Why can't you fill them with foam?

I would think that foam would only make it less likely that any moisture would leave the Hog Troughs as there are drains into them from at least the Skytop.

Grobb284 mentioned in an earlier post that he had a diagram of a way to eliminate the hog troughs by fabricating body mounts to replace them. His older posts both here and on Racing Studebakers does not have pictures only a small box that says image. He must have moved the source of the pictures.

I hope he reposts them.

Bob

,

[DEEPNHOCK]

But... If they were filled with an expanding 'closed cell' foam, where would the water get in?
Especially if it were 'treated' right before the foam would be put in.
And if the boxed are a strength providing 'structure', the a solid 'expanded' foam would provide even more 'stiffness' to the box.
Just thinkin' out loud...
Jeff[8D]

quote:Originally posted by sweetolbob
I would think that foam would only make it less likely that any moisture would leave the Hog Troughs as there are drains into them from at least the Skytop.
Grobb284 mentioned in an earlier post that he had a diagram of a way to eliminate the hog troughs by fabricating body mounts to replace them. His older posts both here and on Racing Studebakers does not have pictures only a small box that says image. He must have moved the source of the pictures.
I hope he reposts them.

quote:Originally posted by DEEPNHOCK
Why can't you fill them with foam?

[WCP]

The water will get in from the cowl vents as that water drains into and out of the hog troughs. Before treating the inside of the troughs, two 2" dia. inspection holes should be cut into the floor on each side fore and aft of the front seats. These holes can be covered with galv. 4" octagon electrical box covers cut down in dia. You will be surprised at the amount of road debris that finds its way into the troughs through the channels to the driveshaft tunnel. On my car, I blocked those channels with fibreglass board stock. The section of the troughs forward of the roll bar bulkhead can be vacuumed out through the inspection holes with a shopvac and a piece of heater hose. The section back of the bulkhead is inaccessable unless you remove the board stock patches at the rear in the wheel well. Again it is best to block the channel at the leading edge of the rear seat. When I replaced my troughs, I primed and then rockerguarded the inside prior to installation.

[WCP]

On further reflection, removing the rear triangular fibreglass pieces will not give access to the rear of the trough. The only option is to cut a hole in the back (rear) of the trough for access (not recommended), or if the interior is out of the car, a section of the panel below the rear arm rest could be removed and then an access hole cut in the inner base or floor similar to the ones cut for and aft of the front seat. BTW mice like to inhabit that rear section if they have access in storage.