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  • exhaust leak

    Where the exhaust pip bolts to the exhaust manifold my flanges are thin metal. I see in SI that they should be composite flanges. The reason I ask is because of a small leak I have.
    If I have metal do I have the wrong flanges?

  • #2
    The "flange" is the 1/4" thick steel plate welded on the end of the head pipe. [:0]

    If you mean the "GASKET", there are both the factory correct OEM beaded steel (with a bevel crush seal) type and the thick composition aftermarket replacement available. When the flange on the exhaust head pipe and the Exhaust Manifold come together SQUARELY, both work fine. If not, the thicker one may help, but better to get a new correct pipe.

    The right side should have TWO gaskets and the 1/2" thick Heat Riser Valve for a factory pipe to correctly FIT. [^]

    StudeRich
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner
    SDC Member Since 1967

    Comment


    • #3
      Thank You. I did mean the gasket. Heat riser is in place.
      That is the side that is leaking.
      quote:Originally posted by StudeRich

      The "flange" is the 1/4" thick steel plate welded on the end of the head pipe. [:0]

      If you mean the "GASKET", there are both the factory correct OEM beaded steel (with a bevel crush seal) type and the thick composition aftermarket replacement available. When the flange on the exhaust head pipe and the Exhaust Manifold come together SQUARELY, both work fine. If not, the thicker one may help, but better to get a new correct pipe.

      The right side should have TWO gaskets and the 1/2" thick Heat Riser Valve for a factory pipe to correctly FIT. [^]

      StudeRich

      Comment


      • #4
        I, too, had a leak at the heat riser. After replacing several (too many) gaskets I found that the heat riser body was tapered, 9/16 on one side 1/2 on the other. The flange on the pipe and on the manifold are/were parallel. Nice soft fluffy gaskets worked for a while, but always blew out eventually. I don't know if the riser was supposed to be tapered or not. I replaced it with a spacer made from 9/16 aluminum, no more riser valve, but since I only drive in nice weather I don't miss it. No more leaks, either.

        [img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
        Tom Bredehoft
        '53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
        '55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
        ....On the road, again....
        '05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
        All Indiana built cars

        Comment


        • #5
          quote:Originally posted by Tom B

          /Cut/I don't know if the riser was supposed to be tapered or not. I replaced it with a spacer made from 9/16 aluminum, no more riser valve, but since I only drive in nice weather I don't miss it. No more leaks, either.
          No Tom, a unmodified Studebaker Heat Riser was not tapered, [u]maybe</u> a Caddy, Olds or Buick though! [:0]

          StudeRich
          StudeRich
          Second Generation Stude Driver,
          Proud '54 Starliner Owner
          SDC Member Since 1967

          Comment


          • #6
            Who knows. It was on the car when I got it, with it's original engine.

            Oh Well. ...

            [img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
            Tom Bredehoft
            '53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
            '55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
            ....On the road, again....
            '05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
            All Indiana built cars

            Comment


            • #7
              If your leak is worse when the engine is cold you might have a
              crack in the manifold, if you just have an alignment problem with
              no corrosion issues you might try loosening the exhaust pipe, then
              tighten the connections at the manifold.

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