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changing a Dana 44 center section

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  • #16
    I done more Dana rears than I could ever remember to count and you can get lucky though it rarely happens. I recall doing a Dana 60 under the truck using a used ring and pinion and when I put in it was dead on pattern. AS I recall this was with the original carrier and bearings so preload wasn't an issue.(It's still running 10-12 yrs later) I have never used a spreader, set up bearings or a press. I use a puller with a bearing splitter to pull bearings on carrier, micrometer for shims and dial indicator with magnetic base(Though I can almost tell clearance by feel). I have spent all day trying to get one right, but have done them in a just a few hours.

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    • #17
      The man who gave me this advice is a well known Studebaker mechanic. I have never used his services, I was just buying a part from him. He knows of what he speaks. I suffer from CRS, so I was checking if anyone had heard of this before and possibly restate the process. The original ring and pinion will be staying together in the same case and the shims will not be disturbed. So the fore/aft clearance should be the same. The side to side measurement is adjusted with shims between the side bearings and the differential itself.He was saying put these shims back in exactly as found and I should be OK. I might try it, see if I can do it cleanly, and use the marking paint to check tooth mesh. If it looks screwy I can always take it to a shop. Thanks for the comment, please contact me if you have any experience with this, good or bad.

      Kelly J. Marion

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      • #18
        You are installing a different carrier. Using the shims that came with EITHER carrier isn't going to work. You have to adjust the sideways positioning of the carrier when you install it into a different housing; period. If the spacers place the ring too close to the pinion, you won't even be able to install it. You should first install the new carrier without the ring gear just to see how many spacers it would take altogether to snug the carrier in there. Next, install it with the ring gear attached, but put most spacers on the tooth side . See how much clearance it feels like you have and begin switching spacers from the tooth side to the opposite side until you hardly feel any movement between the ring and pinion. But you do need to feel a few thousandths. Fill it with oil and put in a small amount of posi additive. Drive it and see if it whines speeding up or slowing down. If it whines speeding up, the ring is too close to the pinion. If it whines slowing down, the ring is too far away from the opinion. Old cars whine when slowing down because the bearing opposite the tooth side takes most of the load and wears out first; moving the carrier away from the pinion.

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        • #19
          Thanks. You can tell my kids are grown (no Grandchildren yet). I'm talking about differentials on Christmas. I might just mosy out to the workshop and look things over. I'm going to call a local differential shop and see what they'll charge to switch out the center section, re-pack and check all the bearings etc.. But the budget is tight for toys right now.

          Merry Christmas and a happy new year everyone.

          Kelly J. Marion

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          • #20
            Here's a link for technical information right from Dana on the 44 assemblies, how to set them up and how to correct the pattern. The correct ones for yours (and others) applications are well worth printing out.


            http://www2.dana.com/expertforms/depdf.aspx?prod=AXL

            1963 Studebaker Avanti: LS1 motor and T-56 transmission have been moved rearward, set up as a two seat coupe with independent rear suspension.
            sigpic 1963 Studebaker Avanti: LS1 motor and T-56 transmission have been moved rearward, set up as a two seat coupe with independent rear suspension. Complex solutions for nonexistant problems.

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            • #21
              Update on the #44. I took it to the rear end shop. Had the TT and rear professionally done. Much $$$ spent. Forget about not having the drums set back properly. The shop owner said he's done 100's of tapered #44's, they will do fine with just leaving them loose. All I'll say is horsepoop. IF you ream out the lug holes some you can get the drum to sit flat. I just don't like it at all.The brakes were a mess. I'm missing the emergency brake lever on the drivers side. Looks to be a '57 up rear set up, 10" brakes. Dows anyone have this lever they want to sell? Thanks.

              Kelly J. Marion

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