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Brake light woes

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  • Brake light woes

    The brake lights on my 66 Cruiser are not working. I was told to replace the fluid switch at the master cylinder and I did. They still are not working. The fuse is OK. Also, are there supposed to be terminals that plug on to the fluid switch? I would appreciate any and all help with this. Thanks, Bruce

  • #2
    Bruce,
    Your next stop is probably going to be the turn signal switch. If your turn signals work in the rear, then that's your problem. If they don't work, check for broken wiring or bad ground at the lamp socket. The brake light circuit goes thru the T/S switch and inside the "contact" area of the switch there is an "open" that will not pass current. A replacement switch will be required. I've tried unsucessfully to repair them. Hope this helps

    Dan Miller
    Atlanta, GA

    [img=left]http://static.flickr.com/57/228744729_7aff5f0118_m.jpg[/img=left]
    Road Racers turn left AND right.

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    • #3
      Bruce,
      Sorry I got the cart before the horse.[B)] I should have read your thread more carefully. Yes there are two red wires that have push on terminals that plug onto the switch. Either wire on either terminal will work. If you have a test light, you can test for current on one of the red wires. Only one will have current...if you connect them together, your brake lights should work. If not, THEN do as I suggested in the last reply. Again, I hope this helps.

      Dan Miller
      Atlanta, GA

      [img=left]http://static.flickr.com/57/228744729_7aff5f0118_m.jpg[/img=left]
      Road Racers turn left AND right.

      Comment


      • #4
        Bruce, I had the same problem (well, kinda) with 'ol Bess. The wires that come out of the steering column sleeve for the brake and turn signals had been screwed up. Also, there was a problem with the wiring. One thing that might behoove you, is to check the wiring in the back. Doesn't take long, and isn't hard at all.

        If a connector plug is fowled or if it is corroded, this will cause your lights not to work either. Jumper the pressure switch wires and fiddle around with the brake light wires in the back. It could (one hopes) just be a little corosion.


        Lotsa Larks!
        K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
        Ron Smith
        Where the heck is Lewiston, CA?
        Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
        K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
        Ron Smith
        Where the heck is Fawn Lodge, CA?

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        • #5
          Following up on Roadrace's second post:

          If indeed there were no wires attached to that M/C switch, it may be because somebody abandoned the fluid switch in favor of a mechanical one mounted under the dash and operated by contact with the brake pedal arm. To my knowledge all late Larks have the mounting point for such a switch, and its a fairly common fix.

          The wires from the fluid switch get re-routed or jumpered, and pulled into the passenger compartment to serve the new mechanical switch, and the old fluid switch stays in place to keep the M/C port plugged up.

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          • #6
            Skyway is correct. The "real" switch is under the dash and is activated by the suspended pedal, just like on a modern car.

            Skip Lackie
            Washington DC
            Skip Lackie

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