GT ignition Question

[rockinhawk]

My 63 GT Hawk will crank in the start mode but when the key is released it dies. It will run well with a hot wire to the coil. I can't find a resistor, but there are two wires going to the dist. Does it have a resisted wire? Or do I have a bad switch? NT


Neil Thornton
Hazlehurst, GA
'57 Silver Hawk
'56 Sky Hawk
'51 2R16 dump truck
Many others.

[Dick Steinkamp]

If the wiring is still stock, the black/green wire to the coil comes from the starter solenoid and gives a full 12V to the coil ONLY when the starter is operating. The other wire should be pink. It is a RESISTANCE WIRE and comes from the ignition switch to provide less than 12V to the coil when running.

Could be either the switch or a bad resistance wire.

Disconnect the battery, crawl under the dash and pop the ignition switch out of its housing (push and turn). Reconnect the battery, turn the ignition switch to the "run" position. Connect one end of your test light to the ignition post of the switch (should be where the pink wire is if the switch isn't clearly marked), and the other end to ground. The test light should light. If not, the ignition switch is bad. If it lights, the pink wire is bad.

Dick Steinkamp
Bellingham, WA

[gordr]

Neil, the pink wire is the resistor wire. It could be bad, or possibly the ignition switch has failed. I've seen ignition switches get flaky, such that the portion of the "ign" contact which it lands on after releasing the key from the crank position becomes dead. But if you give the key an additional further tweak to the left, but not all the way to "off", it catches a good edge of the contact, and will keep running.

Try that a few times. If you can make the car keep running that way. then you know you have a flaky ignition switch (and a good resistor wire).

If that doesn't work for you, I'd say switch on the ignition, and check the "ign" (or "I") terminal with a test light. If the light illuminates, go to the coil (+)terminal, and check there. If it doesn't illuminate the light, then your resistor wire is toast.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

[jd-stude]

The 12 volts going to the coil in start mode or when hot wiring could mask a coil problem. I had one that would only run in the start position and the coil replacement fixed it.

Ken

[rockinhawk]

Thanks for the input. All the other functions on the ign part of the switch work. Turn signals, gauges, etc. So I am thinging the switch is ok. I recently hooked up an electric choke to the ign wire. That may have been too much for the resistance wire, and caused it to fail. Maybe? NT


Neil Thornton
Hazlehurst, GA
'57 Silver Hawk
'56 Sky Hawk
'51 2R16 dump truck
Many others.

[N8N]

easy check, lift the green wire from the coil and then check for voltage in the "run" position at coil +ive. (don't leave the key on too long with the engine not running or you'll burn up the coil.) If you have good voltage, 9V or more, replace the coil. If not, then you need to check voltage at the coil terminal on the ignition switch. If voltage there, replace pink wire, if no, replace ignition switch

good luck

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

[mbstude]

Betcha didn't know that my granddad is colorblind.

Matthew Burnette
Your Friendly Stude Trim Bender

[N8N]

hah, no I didn't. But I DO know that he apparently hasn't driven enough 60's MoPars! (the symptoms he describes are probably the MOST common failure of a MoPar, and on those, it's always the ballast resistor.)

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

[rockinhawk]

Hey Nate. I'm A MOPAR man from way back. The first thing I did was go looking for a resistor. I couldn't find one and it confused me.
Yes I'm Partly color blind and pink is not one of my good colors. It must run in the family. I know some other folks that are color blind too!


I may just run a regular wire and put a resistor in it. NT


Neil Thornton
Hazlehurst, GA
'57 Silver Hawk
'56 Sky Hawk
'51 2R16 dump truck
Many others.

[mbstude]

quote:Originally posted by rockinhawk

It must run in the family. I know some other folks that are color blind too!

Who me? Noooo.......

[Chucks Stude]

Don't hook the electric choke to the ignition points. It sucks too much juice and the ignition does not work. Hook the electric choke to the overdrive wire in the wiring harness. This comes from the school of hard knocks. Pics to follow....

[N8N]

quote:Originally posted by rockinhawk

Hey Nate. I'm A MOPAR man from way back. The first thing I did was go looking for a resistor. I couldn't find one and it confused me.
Yes I'm Partly color blind and pink is not one of my good colors. It must run in the family. I know some other folks that are color blind too!


I may just run a regular wire and put a resistor in it. NT


Neil Thornton
Hazlehurst, GA
'57 Silver Hawk
'56 Sky Hawk
'51 2R16 dump truck
Many others.

That's probably what I would do as well, unless it's a show car. Unfortunately, the old resistance wire was likely more reliable than a MoPar resistor...

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

[Dan White]

I had a similar problem on my '64 R1 Hawk. However, it would only occur when the temperature was less than about 40 degrees. I would hold the switch on to get it going and sometimes it went well and other times it would die again. I finally shot some Silikroil in the key hole. My guess was that the contacts in the switch were gunked up and when cold the "On" was stuck in the "Off" position. It has worked fine ever since!

Dan White
64 R1 GT
64 R2 GT

[candbstudebakers]

Dan are you still looking for door regulators for the GT????? found some ...Bob

Bob Peterson / C & B Studebakers

Castro Valley, CA
canbstudebakers-

[Dan White]

Bob I will have to let you know. My brother bought a '64 parts car and it has regulators in it but not sure if they are any good or not.

Dan White
64 R1 GT
64 R2 GT