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56 skyhawk tranny wont move help!

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  • 56 skyhawk tranny wont move help!

    my recently acuired hawk runs superb but tries to move in forward and reverse and is full of fluid. i,ve heard these transmissions are problematic but have little experience with them.the car has been sitting a very long time but starts readily.i am a new club member and am looking for advice.i believe it has a borg warner automatic.
    with a289 4bbl. carb i keep hearing :i think i can.......

    John C.Stroud

  • #2
    Dump more flid in it. You probably aren't checking it right, so add a quart. It's like this, either it's fried or it's low on fluid. Idling it while low on fluid will burn up the bearings and bushings. Maybe it has the wrong dipstick. The people who say they are problematic are the ones who don't know how to check the fluid level or adjust the throttle valve. These are good transmissions and they've been around a long time and have been used by many many different car companies.

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    • #3
      I've had a Sky Hawk for 50 years. Check transmission fluid by pulling carpet off the transmission hump on the driver's side. Remove the little cover. The oil fill and transmission dipstick are under it.
      Place transmission in D with brakes on and wheels blocked. Check level.
      Add fluid as needed. Someone else can tell you what kind of fluid, I have to look it up every time. This is a strong transmission. I occasionally have the fluid and filters cleaned/changed. Hope this helps.

      Jack in Montana



      sigpic
      Jack, in Montana

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      • #4
        First of all, check your fluid, as Buddy says. start the engine, block the wheels, put the E brake on, step on the brake pedal and put it in drive.

        Ease off on the brake pedal, and using the dip stick, check the oil. If there is oil on the dip stick, wipe it on your sleeve, or a rag, and check it again. If it still has oil on it, you've got a problem If not, add one pint of Dextron 2 or Dex - Merc and check again. Keep adding a pint at a time until it reads full.

        Put it in neutral, put the dip stick back in, button up the cover and the carpet, remove the wheel chocks, release the e brake, step on the brake pedal hard and drop it into drive. If it doesn't try to move, put it in Low. If it still doesn't want to move, then your car needs professional help.

        [img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
        Tom Bredehoft
        '53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
        '55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
        ....On the road, again....
        '05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
        All Indiana built cars

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        • #5
          Does that mean the engine revs freely when in gear, or does it labor instead? Have you tried it after the engine is fully warmed up?


          D 'N Q RACE ENGINES

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          • #6
            Hawknose1, my Skyhawk did the same thing, added fluid till it was full, and after it warmed up, it would go. If it had not been ran for a full day, always had to rev it a bit (low revs) let off, put it in reverse first, then back to low !! It would then VERY gently pull out in low range. Once going, it was fine as long as you drove it. What I learned the hard way later, was NOT to put STP in it as an additive. An old mechanic recommended that, and it slipped really good then. The next owner drove it for years after changing the fluid, said he just did my warm-up, reverse, then drive procedure. It may hook up for you, but if not, hope its an easy fix, they do seem to be almost impossible to destroy. Incidently, the fluid never went low again. Good luck, John

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            • #7
              I've rebuilt a few trans that either had the wrong dipstick, marked wrong, wrong tube, or tube installed incorrectly and I've read different ways to check for the proper fluid level mark, but what I finally figured out is that you start it up cold, drop it in drive; if it doesn't move put in another quart. Reverse uses full pump pressure, whereas the forward system uses pressure metered by the governor. If fluid is way overfull, it is churned up by the spinning members and aerated. When this aerated fluid gets into the pump, everything gets filled with a milkshake like liquid containingg tiny bubbles. Then you have to wait overnight for the bubbles to surface. IF you have your pan off, check and see where the full mark is on the dipstick. It might be way down near the bottom of the pan, below the top of the filter, allowing air to get sucked in. I would put an additive in there to soften the seals as well, because these trans are getting so old that the internal seals are becoming brittle and may start chunkin off; then you'll have nothing. Power steering sealer works well.

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              • #8
                THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR HELP AND ADVICE ,DIDNT KNOW YOU HAD TO CHECK IT IN DRIVE ! SHURE AINT LIKE NO CHEVY I EVER OWNED. I'VE BEEN TOLD THAT YOU COULD FILL THE TRANS WITH LACQER THINNER AND LET SOAK TO LOOSEN UP THE VALVE BODY BUT I THINK I,LL TRY THE SIMPLE STUFF FIRST BEFORE TRYING SUCH DRASTIC MEASURES. THANKS MUCH WILL POST PICTURES WHEN I GET THIS STUPID COMPUTER TO COOPERATE.!P.S.IT DOESNT REV FREELY IT DOES TRY TO MOVE SO I JUST SHUT IT OFF .NOW IF I CAN FIGURE OUT WHAT TO DO WITH ALL THESE MUD DAUBER NESTS UNDER THE HUBCAPS 4 POUNDS AND COUNTING!

                John C.Stroud

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                • #9
                  quote:P.S.IT DOESNT REV FREELY IT DOES TRY TO MOVE SO I JUST SHUT IT OFF .
                  Interesting! Can the car be rolled back and forth? Maybe there's a wheel locked up?
                  No, don't pour any lacquer thinner into the trans.


                  D 'N Q RACE ENGINES

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                  • #10
                    Yikes!! Let the lacquer thinner enthusiasts pour that stuff in their own trans. Just one of those pint containers of power steering sealer. Does it rev freely in park and neutral? Don't keep revving it to try to get it to move. Every time you do that you wear the clutch packs down a little more. It's not designed to wear like a stickshift clutch is. It's designed to engage and not slip at all. There are springs under the clutch stack to soften the engagement. Most of the transmissions I've seen burnt up were caused by low fluid. Transmissions should have an oil light. If yours had one, I think it would never go out because the fluid isn't reaching the suction tube.

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                    • #11
                      solve you shiftless blues but a stick in it.

                      2006,f-150,2x4,v-6,5-speed manual,8ft bed, will post stude info when i get it on the road.

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                      • #12
                        Try Trans-X ... regardless. Add a quart, then top off with regular
                        fluid. The Trans-X will restore seals and stop leaks, and it works!

                        Tom

                        '63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires
                        '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                        Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                        http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                        I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

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                        • #13
                          Be wary of any product that says it 'restores' seals.
                          If you put a chemical in that 'swells' a nitrile rubber seal, it will eventually destroy it.
                          And think about all the other rubber stuff. like o-rings.
                          Just be careful.... That's all I am saying.
                          Jeff[8D]


                          quote:Originally posted by sbca96

                          Try Trans-X ... regardless. Add a quart, then top off with regular
                          fluid. The Trans-X will restore seals and stop leaks, and it works!
                          HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                          Jeff


                          Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                          Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

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                          • #14
                            I've had good luck with Trans-X. Once you have concluded that the reason for the transmission not working is in fact bad seals, you have little to lose by trying Trans-X. Either it works, and buys you a few more months or years of service before you have to rebuild it, or it doesn't, and you rebuild it right away. Either way, you are looking at a tranny rebuild. Trans-X may allow you to delay it until you better prepared to deal with it.

                            Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
                            Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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                            • #15
                              I've taken apart a lot of transmissions that could have been saved by Trans-X. Once the seal starts leaking from shrinkage or cracks, it can still be saved, but the clutch pack wear that ensues from weak application from loss of fluid pressure past the bad seals, will destroy the trans and you will be rebuilding it. Transmission fluid doesn't have the necessary additives to make seals last for fifty years. You have to use an additive if you don't want the seals to become brittle with age.

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