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1950 Champion Brakes

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  • 1950 Champion Brakes

    Any day above ground is a good one!

  • #2
    All I know is that when I replaced all the cylinders and innards on mine, I just bought what was listed for Studebaker at AutoZone and they worked perfect. No problems, so I can't help you with solving yours. But if you can't solve them, maybe look into new ones from AutoZone. I didn't have any problems with assembling the sef-adjusting stuff either. Just follow the book and sit on your butt in front of the backing plate.

    Oh, wait. A problem others have had is adjusting the stud in the shoes. Make sure that it is just BARELY below the surface of the lining.

    '50 Champion, 1 family owner

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    • #3
      Can I assume that you mean that you are having trouble sliding them with your fingers and when Bob G says his worked perfectly, it was after installation.

      If that's the case I'd install them and see if they work. There is a lot of force (pressure) in the system to make them work and springs to retract them. You need a good seal to keep the fluid in the cylinder.

      In a previous life we considered .003"/in about the correct gap for moving parts. About the same for engine bearings if I recall.

      Bob

      ,

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      • #4
        Why on earth are you using Dot 3 as an assembly lube? Silglide has been around for more then twenty years and it works much better to lubricate the cups and pistons. By using DOT 3 you are condeming your brakes to fail before you even get them installed because you are immediately causing crud to build up just by using DOT 3.

        If you car is ugly then it better be fast.....

        65 2dr sedan
        64 2dr sedan (Pinkie)
        61 V8 Tcab
        61 Tcab 20R powered
        55 Commander Wagon
        54 Champion Wagon
        46 Gibson Model A
        50 JD MC
        If you car is ugly then it better be fast.....

        65 2dr sedan
        64 2dr sedan (Pinkie)
        61 V8 Tcab
        63 Tcab 20R powered
        55 Commander Wagon
        54 Champion Wagon
        46 Gibson Model A
        50 JD MC
        45 Agricat
        67 Triumph T100
        66 Bultaco Matadore

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        • #5
          Thanks for the replies,

          I appreciate the information regarding keeping the adjusting stud just below the surface, the repair manual calls for it to be .005 above the surface which would seem have it scoring the shoe right from the start.

          I have never heard of Sil-Glide but I'll do some research to see if it will react to the Dot3. I used Dot3 as an assembly lube simply because that's what numerious books say to do. I do not want to replace the entire brake system in order to convert over to silicone fluid. Everything I have read says that silicone and Dot3 are not compatible, and that you risk a buildup of snot in the lines when you mix the two. I had contemplated flushing the lines i.e. gasoline, alcohol, solvent, paint thinners, etc., but again my research leads me to believe that there is not a product made to flush the brake lines that won't do some type of damage to some or all of the brake parts.

          I'm just trying to lessen my learning curve by other peoples trial and error.

          Thanks again

          John




          Any day above ground is a good one!
          Any day above ground is a good one!

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          • #6
            John, I don't think you should expect the return spring inside the wheel cylinder to able to force NEW cups back out if they are pushed all the way in. If the cylinders are clean and smooth inside without pits, and the pistons alone move freely in them, you should be good to go.

            I'm not familiar with Silglide, but I have a pint can of Girling brake assembly fluid that has served me for at least 30 years, and I use a dab every time I have a cylinder apart.

            Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
            Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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