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Anti Creep, on brakes

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  • Anti Creep, on brakes

    I see an anti creep device up near my master cylinder. Never saw or heard of one untill this sighting. Does it need to be blead seperate from the Wheel cylinders. What can you tell me about this device. Any pointers are helpful.

  • #2
    The anti-creep device (ACD) is in line with the brake line going to the rear brake cylinders, it has no bleed valve. So, when you bleed the rear brakes, you will automatically bleed the ACD.

    The real trick is to get the whole anti-creep system in sync. There is a switch on the carb accelerator linkage which must be adjusted just right after any change is done to the idle, a solenoid valve on the tranny that may or may not be functional, the ACD itself which if broken cannot be fixed but only replace and good luck at finding one of those, and a fuse in the wiring system that at 50+ years is likely blown. When the system is working it is really awesome and fun to show off the "old" studebaker technology to friends....and to take pride that 50 years later a car manufacturer, Volkswagen, is using the same idea...finally! I just fixed the anitcreep on my new 55 sedan, it had a broken switch on the carb linkage. Sure is fun to have it working.

    Check out the shop manual for all of the procedures, it outlines them well...look in the carb adjustment section and also in the tranny section.

    PS -I tried to fix a ACD on my other 55' and found out that it can't be done. I had the unit mounted in a large bench vise secured to a very heavy work bench and then I put a 3 foot long plumbers wrench, which weighs 30 lbs, on it and gave it a good torquing. I didn't get very far, I nearly tipped over my work bench and only budged the ACD to unscrew by just a little bit. So I learned that the factory made them unserviceable.

    Hope that helps,
    E. West
    Best Regards,
    Eric West
    "The Speedster Kid"
    Sunny Northern California
    Where the roads don't freeze over and the heat doesn't kill you.
    And an open road is yours to have -only during non-commute rush hours 9am-4pm and 7pm to 7am (Ha, ha, ha)
    55 Speedster "Lemon/Lime" (Beautiful)
    55 President State Sedan (Rusty original, but runs great and reliable)


    • #3
      Shouldn't be necessary to bleed IT itself. If you've replaced it, you need to bleed the brakes as you would for any brake work where you had the hydraulic part of the system open.
      It's simply an electrically operated valve that holds pressure to the brakes until the power to the valve is removed. When it's right, it works every time you stop and you're likely not aware it's even doing it's job.
      There's the notion that these were only used on cars that had the DG (or Studebaker Automatic) transmissions, but they're listed in the parts books as applicable thru 1964. These valves harken back to the dawn of automatics when folks were leery of driving a car that might "TAKE OFF!"[:0] while you were at a stoplight or such.[:I]

      Miscreant at large.

      1957 Transtar 1/2ton
      1960 Larkvertible V8
      1958 Provincial wagon
      1953 Commander coupe
      1957 President 2-dr
      1955 President State
      1951 Champion Biz cpe
      1963 Daytona project FS
      No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.


      • #4
        Has never been serviced and still works superbly in my 51 and 53.

        Brad Johnson
        Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
        33 Rockne 10
        51 Commander Starlight
        53 Commander Starlight

        previously: 63 Cruiser, 62 Regal VI, 60 VI convertible, 50 LandCruiser
        "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

        Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
        Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
        '33 Rockne 10,
        '51 Commander Starlight,
        '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée",
        '56 Sky Hawk