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New mechanical Brake Light pressure switch!!!

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  • New mechanical Brake Light pressure switch!!!

    1963-66 Studebaker
    Mechanical Brake Light Switch

    We have never had a problem with using dozens of these over the years.

    Studebaker Brake Light switch to replace the pressure switch over to a mechanical switch.

    This easily bolts to existing hole (no need to drill) on all 1963 to 1966 Lark models and Avanti with hanging pedals.

    The perfect solution to fix the problem of leaking pressure switches, converting to other master cylinders, or silicone fluid.

    Fully adjustable, they are easy to bolt on.
    Simply pull existing wires (no need for new wires) from master cylinder inside and crimp new terminals to them inside the car.

    Adjustable to make brake lights come on quicker because it doesn't require fluid pressure!

    You can tap pedal and make brake lights come on for tailgators, without braking.

    $20 + shipping ($4.95) contact
    Stephanie the Studebaker Lady
    liv4today@comcast.net






    The Bell Collection
    Bellingham, WA.
    Bells Studebaker Diner & Museum
    Bellingham, WA.

  • #2
    The perfect simple solution to finally get rid of that undependable Hydraulic Switch! [^]

    The Silicone in my '64 Daytona has eaten about 5 Hydraulic switches.

    By 1970, even Studebaker would have had one!

    StudeRich
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner
    SDC Member Since 1967

    Comment


    • #3
      This past summer I purchased and installed one of your nifty brake light switches on our 64' Cruiser because it had a very stout hydraulic switch and I had to really press hard on the pedal when stopped to get the brake lights to light up. Also, just plain forget about tapping the pedal to get someone behind to back off a bit. The installation was quite easy and the only difference from your photo, is that our Cruiser has a FOM with single pedal and the pedal-brace is different. However there is a convenient single hole tab on the auto-trans car brace that I used to attach your switch bracket to. I bent the tab to get your switch close to the pedal arm, and then finished up using the thread adjustment on the switch to get the brake lights to come on where I liked them. Now I can just lightly tap the pedal, and wa-la, they're there.

      Dean




      CLEM DESEE MISTY
      Dean




      CLEM

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      • #4
        Simpler to just enlarge the hole in the pedal support bracket and mount the switch in the higher position. Rather than altering the wiring harness, put a jumper between the 2 wires at the master cylinder and fasten out of sight. Feed the new switch from the fuse panel brake connection, so that the switch is interupting that red/white trace wire under the dash. Be sure to include the 3rd brake light wire at the switch. I agree, instant brake lights are a huge safety plus.

        Comment


        • #5
          The 1st one I did try enlarging the factory bracket hole.
          I found it to be very difficult drilling a very big hole, through very heavy gauge steel, in a very awkward position (unless you plan on taking the pedal assembly out).
          The large diameter hole required also came too close the lower edge.
          The factory wire going out to the master cylinder starts under dash near this switch, and retains stock harness wiring without altering, or jumping any wires.
          By using this setup, it can be installed, and wired in about 15-20 minutes.
          I have been using these on daily driven Studebaker's for over 16 years without any problem.
          Got tired of replacing pressure switches on the side of the road with no brake lights and loosing silicon brake fluid on another.
          My Hawk also has a similar simple switch with the stock under floor pedal/master cylinder. I may make a batch of them soon, since they work far better and the stock C/K pressure switch is in a very awkward location to keep replacing.

          James


          The Bell Collection
          Bellingham, WA.
          Bells Studebaker Diner & Museum
          Bellingham, WA.

          Comment


          • #6
            I must have used a smaller diameter switch, as I had no trouble opening up the hole a tad. I'll look up the part no. I used.

            Comment


            • #7
              I would install a third brake light in the rear window and hook it to the new switch and leave the original setup as is and replace the hydraulic switch with one from a Harley.
              These switches are the same but have spade terminals and are made for use with silicone brake fluid.
              Bob Kapteyn

              Comment


              • #8
                quote:Originally posted by rkapteyn

                I would install a third brake light in the rear window and hook it to the new switch and leave the original setup as is and replace the hydraulic switch with one from a Harley.
                These switches are the same but have spade terminals and are made for use with silicone brake fluid.
                Bob Kapteyn
                Using this new switch for a third brake light sounds like a good idea.
                The terminals and wiring connector on the Harley switch don't look as good (see http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...TOPIC_ID=28354 ), but would work and are designed for Low fluid pressure in Harley's.
                Having 2 switches working with slight difference in timing of third brake light might be good and you'd always have a back up if either fail.

                James

                The Bell Collection
                Bellingham, WA.
                Bells Studebaker Diner & Museum
                Bellingham, WA.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I used Niehoff SLS1181 (purchased in Canada from Canadian Tire as CTC 20-6856-0). Instant on -all lights is best!

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