Clutch linkage part needed pic added 64 T-Cab

[wolfie]

After closer inspection the Z-Arm bracket in my truck which seemed amatuerishly repaired on my initial inspection (broken down in the rain late at night in a parking lot) is actually just reinforced. The bracket itself is quite strong and does not seem to have ever broken or given trouble. I like the thoughts of hydraulic, but in the interest of following the path of least resistance I need a Z-Arm assembly to replace my broken one. I had hoped to source one from a local parts truck but after looking at it again today I expect it is a different setup. Mine has swinging pedals vs the through the floor pedals of the other truck. Anyone got one? 64 T-Cab truck w/V-8. Thanks, Steve

[studeken]

wazza z-arm bracket?

Ken Pyle

[wolfie]

quote:Originally posted by studeken

wazza z-arm bracket?

Ken Pyle

I must be calling this thing by the wrong name (yes Im country). Its the pivoting thingy that mounts on a bracket that welds and rivets to the frame. It has a rod from one side to the clutch pedal and a rod on the other side to the throwout bearings release fork. It pivots on a big shoulder bolt with a 3/4" square head on it. What I am calling a bracket is the part that actually attaches to the frame that said square head bolt screws into. My bracket is good, I need the pivoting part and bolt but that was your question. Thanks,Steve

[wolfie]

Here are pics of the parts I need. The bottom picture is the bracket I questioned originally. Thanks,Steve

[Dwain G.]

It's known as a bellcrank. There was an update on some of that linkage, and I tried to post it, but I seem to have suddenly lost the ability to send files.


Service Letter added 11-9-09

HEY, you're not Wilbur!

[Mr Speed 53]

Tom Karkowicz in South Bend has parted out a few Champs.His phone number is 574 287-5834 good luck on your project! Ed

[studebakerkid]

I parted out a 64 and I should have the parts in the loft.

Now that I have the Chev. out of the shop I can run the elevator down s I can go up and take a look.

Here is my email addy hartcreek@bentonrea.com if you dont have parts already.

Use Studebaker in your subject line so I can seperate it out from all the junkmail that I get

If you car is ugly then it better be fast.....

65 2dr sedan
64 2dr sedan (Pinkie)
61 V8 Tcab
61 Tcab 20R powered
55 Commander Wagon
54 Champion Wagon
46 Gibson Model A
50 JD MC

[studebakerkid]

I am kinda surprised that you did not have other problems with the clutch linkage. On my 64 the bracket on the pedal arm broke so I remade mine and made it adjustable for throw by using a piece of ready rod for the pivot instead of the steel rod and a jamb nut.

If you car is ugly then it better be fast.....

65 2dr sedan
64 2dr sedan (Pinkie)
61 V8 Tcab
61 Tcab 20R powered
55 Commander Wagon
54 Champion Wagon
46 Gibson Model A
50 JD MC

[wolfie]

Thanks Guys, Got busy last week and didnt get back to this but I will follow up this afternoon. thanks again,Steve

[Ron Dame]

And the readi-rod has held? It didn't work for me.

While I don't have the 'factory authorized' repair, the prior owner made a very serviceable facsimile of it that stops the flexing. But it remains a very heavy clutch, with lots of slop. I have nearly 2" of free play at the pedal, but it's barely enough to keep the T/O bearing off of the clutch fingers. Lot of the play is in the double D holes in the clutch pedal and the lever on the other arm of the shaft (up under the dash), other slop is found where the rods have worn into the other assorted levers in this mess.

If I ever get around to putting the 185 OHV in the truck, I'll bush all the levers and rods, but as far as the double D's (nah, now where near as nice as triple D's <G&gt, does anyone know how to best remove the slop in the double D holes? The new clutch pressure plate is a I-H four cylinder diaphragm cover, and should reduce pedal pressure a lot. I hope.

quote:Originally posted by studebakerkid

I am kinda surprised that you did not have other problems with the clutch linkage. On my 64 the bracket on the pedal arm broke so I remade mine and made it adjustable for throw by using a piece of ready rod for the pivot instead of the steel rod and a jamb nut.

If you car is ugly then it better be fast.....

65 2dr sedan
64 2dr sedan (Pinkie)
61 V8 Tcab
61 Tcab 20R powered
55 Commander Wagon
54 Champion Wagon
46 Gibson Model A
50 JD MC

Ron Dame
'63 Champ

[studebakerkid]

If you are using a lesser pressure plate then the clutch will slip when you really put a load on it.....bad idea. When I replace a clutch and it is not a hyperformance clutch I have the flywheel step machined 20 thousands so that the pressure plate applies more pressure.

I am not to worried about pedal pressure since I installed a Hays Steet and Strip 12 inchclutch in Pinkie and it takes 5000 foot pounds to release it. It is fairly easy to get enough mechanical advantage in the linkage but you can not use a stock 65-66 clutch linkage as it will bend. I made mine out of hardened reddi rod and square tubeing.

If you car is ugly then it better be fast.....

65 2dr sedan
64 2dr sedan (Pinkie)
61 V8 Tcab
61 Tcab 20R powered
55 Commander Wagon
54 Champion Wagon
46 Gibson Model A
50 JD MC

[studebakerkid]

After looking at Wolfie's photos some more if it was me I would just position the belcrank as it was stock and weld it back together.

A good AC or DC weld would be plenty strong for that amount of torque.

If you car is ugly then it better be fast.....

65 2dr sedan
64 2dr sedan (Pinkie)
61 V8 Tcab
61 Tcab 20R powered
55 Commander Wagon
54 Champion Wagon
46 Gibson Model A
50 JD MC

[Chucks Stude]

If you have to have replacement parts, call Bob Helm, at 972-843-3402 after 6:00 PM, Central time. He has tons of this kind of stuff. Ask Alan Songer, he saved his bacon. Good guy. He is 81 years old, so doesn't move as fast as he used to. But his mind is sharp as a tack.