Announcement

Collapse

Get more Tips, Specs and Technical Data!

Did you know... this Forum is a service of the Studebaker Drivers Club? For more technical tips, specifications, history and tech data, visit the Tech Tips page at the SDC Homepage: www.studebakerdriversclub.com/tips.asp
See more
See less

Brake Line Bracket

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Brake Line Bracket


    I'm in the process of replacing the brakes on my hawk, hoses etc as I mentioned on another thread; got the drivers side brakes disassembled and now I'm scratching my head on this brake line bracket. it appears that the line in held on the bracket by a
    separate metal piece, but I can't figure how to remove it. It is rather rusty, maybe frozed to the bracket, not sure. Does anyone know how this end of the hose gets removed fromm the braket? ps. note how the steel line is broken. It was really rusty as well and just snapped when I started to remove the fitting. scary..

    tks,


  • #2
    OK, you need to remove that clip. Start by soaking it with penetrating oil, then tap it on the side to try and get it to rotate on the line, then tap it off the line, or use vise grips to pull it off. (It's "U" shaped with a open end away from the vertical lip.)


    64 Commander 2 dr.
    63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (Black) #2
    63 Avanti R1
    63 Daytona convert
    63 Lark 2 door
    63 Lark 2 door #2
    62 Daytona HT/ 4 speed
    62 Lark 2 door
    62 GT Hawk 4 speed
    60 Lark HT
    60 Hawk
    59 3E truck
    52 Starliner
    51 Commander

    JDP Maryland

    Comment


    • #3
      The slightly bent piece on the left side of the tab as shown in your pic is/was a clip similar to a C-clip which should pull straight up. If you spray it well with a good penetrating oil such as Kroil and then let it soak for a while, it should loosen the rust up enough to remove the keeper clip, the hose end will then be easily removed. It looks like the clip has rusted enough that it will no longer have any of the flex that it originally had so after the rust is loosed up with the Kroil the clip may come off in pieces.


      Studebaker Fever
      60 Lark
      51 Champion
      Phil
      Arnold, Missouri

      Studebaker Fever
      60 Lark
      56 Power Hawk
      Phil Hendrickson
      Arnold, Missouri

      Comment


      • #4
        ok, thanks; I'll soak it good and let it sit for a couple of days.
        Then we'll see...
        tks

        Comment


        • #5
          Here ya go. I've never seen one that was rusted so bad it had to be soaked. Of course, I don't see many Rust Belt beauties![B)]



          Miscreant adrift in
          the BerStuda Triangle


          1957 Transtar 1/2ton
          1960 Larkvertible V8
          1958 Provincial wagon
          1953 Commander coupe

          No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

          Comment


          • #6
            quote:I've never seen one that was rusted so bad it had to be soaked. Of course, I don't see many Rust Belt beauties!
            Living in the rust belt, I've seen few that don't need soaked but,
            never seen a bracket welded to the frame that has a sheetmetal capscrew holding it on.[}] Sorry, Bob, I had to go there.

            After the clip and hose are released, you can unscrew the bracket, clean it up and reattach it. Don't unscrew the bracket with the clip and hose attached.
            "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

            Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
            Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
            sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"

            Comment


            • #7
              quoteon't unscrew the bracket with the clip and hose attached.
              Rockne, out of curiosity, why? I couldn't get the same clip loose so I just took the whole thing off (via the bolt holding the bracket on). This was because the 4" steel brake line above it broke. This way I was able to remove the fitting and put the new line in. It's a bear to work on (Oi Vay![B)]). Had to fold the fender boot aside to get inside to it.


              Lotsa Larks!
              K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
              Ron Smith
              Where the heck is Lewiston, CA?
              Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
              K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
              Ron Smith
              Where the heck is Fawn Lodge, CA?

              Comment


              • #8
                Mr. Biggs, many thanks for ur trouble in diagraming this removal;
                and also tks for all the other good tips. I haven't yet attempted to remove the hose--it's snowing here today so I have other problems to deal with - but I'll get to it soon. I also have included
                a pic of the new hose from NAPA; it does have a c-clip and hopefully this will fit in the bracket; Think I might have to modify it as has been suggested? Also the diameter of this new hose is smaller than the stock hose. Does anyone see a problem with that?
                tks,


                Comment


                • #9
                  The newer brake hoses have a smallerO.D. than the older ones did. Shouldn't be any problem, I've had the NAPA hoses on my 48 for nearly a year now.

                  GARY H 2DR.SEDAN 48 STUDEBAKER CHAMPION NORTHEAST MD.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    quote:quote:
                    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                    Don't unscrew the bracket with the clip and hose attached.
                    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------



                    Rockne, out of curiosity, why?
                    You're right, Ron. I was thinking, with the bracket attached to the frame you can apply leverage to the clip. With it unattached it's all flopping around and you may brake the steel line. If you're replacing the hose and the steel line, why not cut them both , unbolt the bracket and eliminate the contortions. The first time I tried this, I was not planning on replacing the steel line but had to when it broke, which it was probably going to do soon anyway.
                    "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

                    Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
                    Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
                    sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Here is a cleaned up picture from another angle.



                      Wayen K.
                      Libby, MT
                      61 Hawk (Project)

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        ok, the thing came apart thanks to your help; it soaked a couple of days and the clip pulled off after some wiggling. the bracket and clip are in better shape than I would have thought... I will reuse
                        the bracket but I'll replace the clip (as well as the other two when I get to them); Hotwheels63r2, would like to buy the three backets from you; my email is: jadiggle@peoplepc.com. One last question (promise); hate to ask about these basic things, but this is my first time replacing all these parts; I have new wheel cylinders,
                        ready to install.. they did not come with the metal "push rods"
                        that engage the shoes... assume I can use the olds ones, but how
                        are they installed in the new wheel cylinders? (I don't want to mess them usp); do they just push through the rubber boot or do I remove the rubber boot to install them? tks,

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Just pull them out of the old boots, clean them up and reinstall in the new cylinder.


                          64 Commander 2 dr.
                          63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (Black) #2
                          63 Avanti R1
                          63 Daytona convert
                          63 Lark 2 door
                          63 Lark 2 door #2
                          62 Daytona HT/ 4 speed
                          62 Lark 2 door
                          62 GT Hawk 4 speed
                          60 Lark HT
                          60 Hawk
                          59 3E truck
                          52 Starliner
                          51 Commander

                          JDP Maryland

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Yes, those little push rods will just push through the boot. If they're corroded and nasty, which they probably are, I like to chuck them into a cordless drill and wrap sandpaper around them as I run the drill. If they're really nasty, I use a wire brush on them first then sandpaper. That way you aren't shoving a rough, cruddy rod through a nice new rubber boot.

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X