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rear end 1949 commander

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  • tim87114
    replied
    Phantom the interior supplier?

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  • 1962larksedan
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by buddymander

    I've been wondering which disc brake rotor will bolt on to the studebaker spindle. I was thinking about designing a kit to adapt ball joints to the studebaker lower aframe and changing the upper to something adjustable to get to ball joints plus disc brakes in one fell swoop.
    Does't Phantom of somebody similar sell a bolt on set of upper/lower control arms with balljoints that use the stock mtg points on any 1951-85 Stude/Avanti frame?

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Borrowed Bams50's sigline here:

    "Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"

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  • tim87114
    replied
    buddy,
    Good point on the A-frame. Just to be sure we are on the same page. I have the planar suspension. Are you thinking of keeping that? I don't think it would be that hard to fab up Tubular lower a-arms then remove the Leaf pocket and weld it onto the tubular arm. At the rear of the arm I think the cross shaft is what would be complicated, although the cost of just those parts isn't really that expensive in the long hall. So keeping the stock cross shaft and parts with a new arm would be easy to design in. I also agree the upper isn't really an issue.

    I just finished swapping out my frame this weekend so I'm getting started back up on the car.

    ST2De5, That is good information as I wasn't aware that a trailer hub may contain different material. Definately something to look into before going off and doing.

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  • Carl Purdy
    replied
    Your trailer will never have much side force. Your car makes a turn and all the force of the car is leaning to the wheel that turns. A trailer basically slides side ways when a turn not much side force. I have machined both. The trailer hub just makes dust when machining and the car hub will make small chips much harder. I just wouldn't want some bodys Studebaker having a wreck and maybe a serious accident.


    7G-Q1 49 2R12 10G-F5 56B-D4 56B-F2

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  • buddymander
    replied
    ST2DE5--can you substantiate that please? I've never heard of it and I load my trailer way over the max. And I do go around corners on occasion.. Hey--my compliments to all of the creative brake and hub interchange going on here--I don't get to see this type of creative thinking very often and it's impressive over the top. Tim--I think the reason stude aframes crack is because of the stresses placed on them by adjusting the trunnions for max positive caster. Ball joints would alleviate this problem. I'm thinking a plate welded to the lower to accommadate a bolt on ball joint because changing the lower is more complicated than the top since the lower has the spring pocket. The top needs to be adjustable, so it has to go. My search is for a spindle with its upper aframe; both ball joints and brakes. As long as it fits the outer tie rod, then the adapted parts will be the lower ball joint and upper aframe mount.

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  • hotrodstude
    replied
    width is not important to apoint.i'm going to use firebird fender flares(1970-1981 f-body)cut out the sheet metal ariund the wheel well.using L60x15 fiberglass wide ovals on the rear on 8x15 chrome reverse so not worried about outter clearance.usely anything i do can be undone if i need to return to stock.the rear fenders bolt on right???thank for the info,i learned a lot.also are the front spindles strong enough to handle 7x15 chrome reverse wheels with g60x15's????so it looks like i need to relocate any axle mounting location???one last thing is it better to mount the axle above or under the leaf springs????

    2006,f-150,2x4,v-6,5-speed manual,8ft bed, will post stude info when i get it on the road.

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  • Carl Purdy
    replied
    Trailer hubs will not take side stress. If you turn a corner and hit a pot hole it will brake. The metal is to porous. It is made for down force only.


    7G-Q1 49 2R12 10G-F5 56B-D4 56B-F2

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  • tim87114
    replied
    Hotrodstude and any other with a pre 50>

    Ok I found some very interesting information yesterday. I found out that there is a trailer hub, that will fit right on the 47-49 spindle with the same bearing ID and legth as ours. Scroll down to line item 11 and 12. I just need to measure the seal to confirm, but I'm sure the inner seal is different. The trailer hub shows an ID of 1.5 or 1.6. I think the champion is 1.313" If so either a different seal or a seal spacer could be slipped on the spindle. This would be an easy way to convert to five lug for the front. Does anyone know if the 5 lug drum hub will fit on the 4 lug spindle?
    http://www.championtrailers.com/hubs.html#painted_hubs

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  • tim87114
    replied
    I decided against the conversion on my 49. Ya it must be different on the 62 for sure. I have a hard time finding seals outside of buying from the stude suppliers, mine is a spicer model 23 axle.

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  • rickhmn
    replied
    Tim 87114
    do you know if the offset was different on your rear than mine (a dana 27 from a 62 lark)?
    I measured the offset to be within a half inch or so. I do agree that over the length of the diveshaft it's not going to matter anyway. When you had a drieshaft made did you keep the stock flange on the ford rear or switch to a yoke? Thanks for the Jeep conversion tip. I wondered what I was going to do with the e brake.

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  • tim87114
    replied
    Buddy,

    From a front disc brake standpoint. On the 4 lug car, I converted to disc all the way around by using a Kia spectra front rotors and saturn rear rotors. Both hubs were re-drilled. But now that I know the Mustang Hub will fit that opens up the door for bolt on 5 lug.

    I was sticking with the 4 lug because the Scion XB stock wheels are steel and 15x7 so they would look near stock once the hub cap tabs are welded to the wheels. I would also get disc brakes front and rear. I have the rear brackets completed and only need to cut out the front brackets and weld on a slight offset of 3/4" for the mounting location.

    Here is the rear with saturn rotor and caliper: Notice it's e-brake bracket is a simple connect for the stock stude cable. Basically the caliper bracket takes place of the bearing keeper plate shown in the picture.



    Here is the front rotor mocked up. Now that I have the hub re-drilled and studs installed, I need to update the photo. Note this is a 10.5" rotor, but the inside Hat area is very large and the Kia was the only one I could find that would fit in a 4 lug car.

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  • tim87114
    replied
    For Buddy.
    Yea, me too. I've got a set of AFCO arms and was considering grafting them as well. But actually I too thought about simply cutting the end of the stock lower a-arm off then welding on a flat plate to bolt a lower balljoint to. This is common on new cars. The upper arm can be easily made as well.

    I pulled out some Dirt Track Racing arms I had laying around which use the ford upper ball joint and it would fit right into that spot. So I'm going to take some measurements and hit the U-pullit to take some measurements off some vehicles to see what if any will have the width and length of the stock upper arm. The lower I agree can be modified.

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  • brngarage
    replied
    Sorry it took so long, but I wasn't able to contact my friend with the Comet rear assembly in the '51 Champion Starlight until yesterday. He measured last night and told me the distance between the inside edges of the rear leaves is 38". He sent me some pictures. If anyone would like to see the pictures, please email me off forum.



    Howard
    53 Commander Starliner
    56 Sky Hawk

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  • hotrodstude
    replied
    SORRY ITS A COMMANDER.245/3-speed

    2006,f-150,2x4,v-6,5-speed manual,8ft bed, will post stude info when i get it on the road.

    Leave a comment:


  • buddymander
    replied
    I've been wondering which disc brake rotor will bolt on to the studebaker spindle. I was thinking about designing a kit to adapt ball joints to the studebaker lower aframe and changing the upper to something adjustable to get to ball joints plus disc brakes in one fell swoop.

    Leave a comment:

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