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  • #16
    quote:Originally posted by Chucks Stude

    What is the Stude number Matt? I might try to find them(maybe SI can steal a set from SASCO). Interesting, Dorman 560-022 doesn't seem to come up.
    1562875

    Matthew Burnette
    Hazlehurst, GA

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    • #17
      Dorman 555 .038 So far So good, little liquid sealer all the way around. O reilly Auto.



      ChopStu

      140 weeks till completion.
      61 Lark

      sigpic

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      • #18
        Those Dorman 555 .038 will those fit a 259 v/8 ? 1955

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        • #19
          An update.
          This job is akin to cleaning out the boiler of an old locomotive. On a scale of 1 to 10, it rated a -5. Ordered the copper freeze plugs from Studebaker Intl. Got it all cleaned out, glued the freeze plugs in, and could not get them to get big enough to grip the sides of the holes. The old holes all had rubber plugs in them. I wonder if the holes had eroded. It was obvious that they were all egg shaped. Went with rubber plugs again. They seem to hold. I know that this is not acceptable, but will have to do till I get the engine out. That will be next year. The engine temp now is rock solid(a play on what I found in the water jackets). What I have thought was a ridge on the back two freeze plugs, turns out to be the corrosion from the block drain plugs. I attempted to remove these plugs, and the outer 1/3rd of the plug fell off in my hand, leaving the rest in the block. Will have to deal with this, when I pull the engine. All in all, I think that it was worth it, but the question is "How many more of these learning experiences can I stand"? Now that I have done it all wrong...... any suggestions?

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          • #20
            Life is too short to sweat every detail at once.
            The rubber plug is a quicky repair.
            They won't last forever, but they are easy to install and 'should' last you until you pull the engine and do them all the right way.
            Your NPT drain plugs are more a concern to me.
            If they are rotted enough to break in half, then what is in the block is pretty bad..
            (Think a rotten molar and the filling fell out)
            Keep an eye on it, be prepared for the worst, and have fun while saving up for a proper rebuild.
            Jeff[8D]



            quote:Originally posted by Chucks Stude
            <snip>
            Will have to deal with this, when I pull the engine. All in all, I think that it was worth it, but the question is "How many more of these learning experiences can I stand"? Now that I have done it all wrong...... any suggestions?


            http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock
            HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

            Jeff


            Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



            Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

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            • #21
              Jeff, I picked at the remains of the plug with a screwdriver, and it seems solid. Looks like it broke level with the outside of the block. The leaking freeze plug must have dripped on those plugs, and rusted the outside of them. Is there a better plug available, than the ones you get in the plumbing dept of Home Depot???

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              • #22
                I would put a solid brass six sided hex head (is that redundant?) npt plug in there...
                Then, check it again in 2045
                Jeff[8D]


                quote:Originally posted by Chucks Stude

                Jeff, I picked at the remains of the plug with a screwdriver, and it seems solid. Looks like it broke level with the outside of the block. The leaking freeze plug must have dripped on those plugs, and rusted the outside of them. Is there a better plug available, than the ones you get in the plumbing dept of Home Depot???
                HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                Jeff


                Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

                Comment


                • #23
                  I have seen those steel drain plugs rust so bad on the inside, that when I went to remove them, the outer part fell away, leaving a solid plug of rust in the hole. Took a hammer and punch to clean it out, but you can be certain it would fall out on its own at an inopportune time if you just left it.

                  If what remains of yours is in fact rust, punch it out. If it IS steel, drill 'em out, then run a pipe tap in the ole to clean it up, and install the brass hex-head plugs.

                  Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
                  Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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                  • #24
                    I once had a drain plug break in half...Was too lucky to get a drill into it (engine in car). Finally got it out with thw rest of the plugs and cleaned out pretty good.....Not as clean as the engine out on the a stand with the hose......I've done this with 2 289's. Both ran @ 170 (same 170 stat) with AC and 4 blade fan.....it works better than you think...

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                    • #25
                      Jeff, is the drain plug a 1/4 NPT plug? Will have to look around for the brass ones. I cannot get my parts CD to load into my computer(Stuck in technology h*&%). It looks smaller than 3/8".

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                      • #26
                        Jon Meyer Meyer Studebaker Duncan Fall Ohio has the brass ones
                        130 main street,740-674-4897 fax 740-674-7170

                        studeboro
                        sigpicstudeboro

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                        • #27
                          Thank You

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