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Rear leaf springs

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  • Rear leaf springs

    I have had a lot of problems with the steering on my 58 Silverhawk and max castor was -2.5 degrees. One of the reasons for this was that the rear of the car was too high , using info on this site I had a local suspension shop lower the rear.Castor has improved but rear springs are very noisy when I hit a bump. The manual talks about plastic leaf liners between the 1st 4 leafs. There is no discription of this part in the manual and there are none between my springs.Is this the cause of the squeaking and if so what can I use as Spring liners ?

  • #2
    Can't speak to whether this is the source of the noise but the spring liners are available from Studebaker International; Part #801627, $29,95/set.
    "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

    Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
    Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
    sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"

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    • #3
      The usual way that shops will lower a leaf spring car is by adding a
      block in between the springs & the rear axle housing spring landings.
      If they do not use the correct blocks, the axle can rock back & forth
      on the spring and break the blocks. Most aftermarket blocks are made
      from cast aluminum, and are not very strong. I broke mine quickly.
      I had steel ones made for the Avanti, though a billet structual 6061
      could be used without trouble. Its casting that makes them brittle.
      Its also possible they didnt tighten the u-bolts up enough, or that
      the blocks they used dont have locating pins (this will allow the axle
      to move back the forth on the rear springs!) Just a couple things to
      check out. If they didnt squeak before the lowering, its got to be
      something they did during the process.

      Tom

      '63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: 97 Z28 T-56 6-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires
      '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
      Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
      http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
      I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

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      • #4
        Thanks Guys , in my case they have not used a block to lower the suspension but have re profiled the leaves themselves. They maintain that this is the correct way to lower the suspension ? Can you tell me what material is sed to make the spring liners and is there some easily available substitute material ? If the absence of the spring liners is not the source of the suspension squeaks , what else could be the problem

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        • #5
          Yes, "re-arching" the springs is the better way to lower a suspension,
          as long as its done correctly. Yes, from the factory they should've
          had one of two styles of liners. Some had a dent at each end of the
          spring and pads that fit into the dent. Some had the full liner that
          you are refering too, either will work. Its possible that when they
          did the arching, they threw out the original liners. I would bring it
          back to them, and have them pay for and install the correct parts.

          Without the liners/pads, its very likely it would cause a squeak. You
          should make sure they dont just take the car, jack it up, and put a
          dab of grease between the springs. That MIGHT stop the squeak just
          long enough for you to get home, and out of their shop!

          Tom
          '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
          Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
          http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
          I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

          Comment


          • #6
            Mike,
            You didn't state wheather the spring eyelet bushings on either end were replaced. The rear ones are the most likely to wear out first and the fronts seldom give trouble. If the springs were out of the car, that was the time for replacement. There are also bushings in the frame that the rear shackle connects to. Those are a bear to replace.[}] This is one of the jobs the shop manual does not cover at all. They explain replacement of the SPRING bushings, but not the frame ones. Tools most often required....threaded rod, pieces of approporate diameter and length pipe, lots of penetrant, hammer, chisels, and possibly even a torch. Be prepared to get nasty! and by all means, wear safety glasses and gloves. Hope this helps.

            Dan Miller
            Atlanta, GA

            [img=left]http://static.flickr.com/57/228744729_7aff5f0118_m.jpg[/img=left]
            Road Racers turn left AND right.

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            • #7
              Spring liners are available from Studebaker International. Part# 801627 1953-61 cars at $29.95 for a set of 6.

              Darryl C. Lewallen Clarkesville, Ga.
              Darryl C. Lewallen Clarkesville, Ga.

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              • #8
                What you are looking for is Polypropylene sheet .025"-.035" or a little less than 1mm. In some places you can get it in rolls and cut it to length. I buy mine from Cadilac Plastics. But I wouldn't know where to get it in South Africa.

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                • #9
                  Spring liners are also available at RestorationStuff.com page 37. Not sure if they would pass in a show but might help to solve your problem. These seem to be ribbed on the sides to help keep it from sliding out. You could take your springs apart and clean them up, they might have worn spots where they rub against each other. Just temember you will need new center pins can't reuse the old one and new u-bolts, never re-use u bolts. You stretch them too much when you tighten them.

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