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  • OD Conundrum

    My 55 V-8 OD 6-volt now runs almost flawlessly except. I guess all 50+ year
    old car have that except. My car will not go into OD for the first
    10-12 minutes after I start it. I've noticed that the Amp gage is fully onto the first charge notch. When it settles down to show just a slight charge then it smoothly slips into OD.

    On the occaisonal long run (over 100 miles) the car again refuses to
    slide into OD; on this I suspect that its heat build up. The Solonoid
    is very clo0se to the exhaust and the pipes are heavt stainless; what do you think, any others have this ??

    Thanks in advance guys, Murray

    I treated the Speedster to a new relay and solonoid from Studebaker-International and they are really great products. Were lucky to have that kind of support.

    This is certainly not an game-ending problem but I am curious.

    http://sites.google.com/site/intrigu...tivehistories/

    http://studebakerspeedster.blogspot....s-new-v-8.html

    Life isn't about how to survive the storm, but how to dance in the rain !

    http://sites.google.com/site/intrigu...tivehistories/

    (/url) https://goo.gl/photos/ABBDQLgZk9DyJGgr5

  • #2
    Although this hasn't happened to my cars, I've heard that the governor oil seal gets old and allows oil to "get into the works". To repair, just remove the governor, take off the housing, clean things up, instal a new seal, put 'er back together.

    Roger "153624" Hill

    55 Champion
    47 M-5
    Izzer Buggy
    Junior Wagon
    Roger Hill


    60 Lark Vlll, hardtop, black/red, Power Kit, 3 spd. - "Juliette"
    61 Champ Deluxe, 6, black/red, o/d, long box. - "Jeri"
    Junior Wagon - "Junior"

    "In the end, dear undertaker,
    Ride me in a Studebaker"

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    • #3
      The governor contacts and the solenoid contacts are prone to problems with oil contamination. When I had my Champ truck with OD, I had to remove both units about every other year to clean the contacts. Also check the OD relay as they are another problem area with non op overdrive as they are prone to internal corrosion. Bud

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      • #4
        Thanks for the info, I havent done anything to the Governor. Any insight into where to get the seal for it?

        Thanks

        http://sites.google.com/site/intrigu...tivehistories/

        http://studebakerspeedster.blogspot....s-new-v-8.html

        Life isn't about how to survive the storm, but how to dance in the rain !

        http://sites.google.com/site/intrigu...tivehistories/

        (/url) https://goo.gl/photos/ABBDQLgZk9DyJGgr5

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks for the info, I havent done anything to the Governor. Any thoughts on where to obtain a new seal for it??

          Thanks Again

          http://sites.google.com/site/intrigu...tivehistories/

          http://studebakerspeedster.blogspot....s-new-v-8.html

          Life isn't about how to survive the storm, but how to dance in the rain !

          http://sites.google.com/site/intrigu...tivehistories/

          (/url) https://goo.gl/photos/ABBDQLgZk9DyJGgr5

          Comment


          • #6
            I don't know if new seals are available for either the solenoid or governor and I don't know that you can disassemble either unit for seal replacement. Even though you have replaced the solenoid and relay, one of the parts could still have a defect such as dirty contacts. Be sure that the electrical connections are in good shape as a voltage drop will keep the solenoid from operating. Bud

            Comment


            • #7
              1. If I remember right, the OD relays gets power from the battery side of the amp gauge, so its current draw won't show on the gauge directly, although the charging rate may diminish while in OD due to the draw.

              2. Here's a troubleshooting idea: get a few feet of #10 wire, some terminals, and a toggle switch. Use whatever's handy, of course, but be use to use fairly heavy wire. Run a wire from the battery (-) terminal to the passenger compartment, connect it to the switch, and run another wire from the switch to the terminal on the solenoid which has the heavy wire on it. If you operate the switch with the engine shut off, you should hear a click from the solenoid. If not, either the solenoid is bad, or you got the wrong terminal. If you switch the wire to the other terminal, and get a click, proceed with the remainder of the test. If not, then you need to open up the solenoid.

              Proceeding, then, drive the car down the road, OD handle pushed in, and get it up to 30 mph, and release the throttle. If OD fails to engage, try your manual switch. If that engages the overdrive, then your problem is NOT the solenoid. Most likely the governor, since you say it's intermittent and seeming temperature-dependent, but it MIGHT be the relay, or the wire harness. What the others have said about the oil seals in the governor and solenoid is dead on.

              One final thought: be sure that the OD lockout lever on the side of the case, the one connected to your dash control is ALL the way back against its stop on the case when the handle is pushed in all the way. Ideally, the lever should be on its stop, and leave the handle about 1/8" short of bottoming on its bezel nut. That lever does not have to be very far off its stop AT ALL to inhibit OD engagement. I found that out the hard way!

              Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
              Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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