I think maybe folks are tightening the bolts too tight and distorting the rubber. Manual says only 13=17 ft. lbs. Use some locktite, of course. Thanx, KP
Ken Pyle
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Vibration Damper Wobble?
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I rebuilt 58 289 engine..After reading all your comments i begin to worry about if i got the damper in properly or not. I have the engine out of car now. Is there a good way to double check to see if in okay.. I tried follow instructions in Studebaker repair manual but found it almost impossible install it the way they said. At the time i thought it didn't seem to make sense or any difference as long as holes matched and bolted up. Where is the wobble seen or felt???
Thanks Don
58 Golden Hawk
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When I bought Bomerang (Hi Dave, how's she doing?) The damper wobbled pretty badly. I disassembled it, and found repro rubber in there, but whoever installed it stretched the rubber to make the holes line up instead of finding the correct orientation. This kept the rubber from properly seating in teh damper and gave it the wobbles. The rubber was ruined, and I bought new repro, and had no further problems.
quote:Originally posted by Dwain G.
A person at Cedar Rapids asked if I had heard anyone suggest that the new manufacture rubber insulators were somehow inferior. His problem was that the vibration damper began to wobble a few thousand miles after being installed. I said I would ask around. The person asking knows what he's doing, and assured me the rubber was seated correctly around all the bolt holes. He's going to set up a dial indicator and try to realign the damper by selectively loosening and tightening the six hub bolts.
I did ask around, but found that everyone I asked always reused the original insulators.
So my question is, has anyone else experienced this problem, and were you able to correct it? What did you do?
HEY, you're not Wilbur!
'63 Champ
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I replaced the insulators on the Hawk with new ones from SI this last spring. This was because the damper was bent and wiggled a bit as the engine ran, and while I couldn't feel anything, it was just bugging me. So while replacing the damper with a good one, I felt that new insulators were justified. So far after several hundred miles the damper/insulators are fine. However, after noting this topic I will keep a watch on them.
Dean Croft
Roseburg,OR
CLEMDESEE
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I encountered this same problem a few years back! And NEW rubbers fixed it. Yes sir!
I also have a damper disc that's bowed! All I can figure is that it was in a car that suffered a collision![xx(]
1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1963 Cruiser
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President two door
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I'd check again that the rubber part are installed in the one correct orientation. All the bolts need to be tight. There is no adjustment. The front and rear steel/iron parts are set with a mechanically controlled distance that the rubber bits and large plate must occupy together, like seats A, B, and C in row 7 on a Boeing 737.
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I rebuilt a 232 on which I replaced the vibration dampener rubber , and I had a tough time getting it run without the "wobble". I retightened the 6 bolts but never seemed to cure it. The crank bolt was torqued correctly, too. It didn't seem to get any worse or have any effect...[?]
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Vibration Damper Wobble?
A person at Cedar Rapids asked if I had heard anyone suggest that the new manufacture rubber insulators were somehow inferior. His problem was that the vibration damper began to wobble a few thousand miles after being installed. I said I would ask around. The person asking knows what he's doing, and assured me the rubber was seated correctly around all the bolt holes. He's going to set up a dial indicator and try to realign the damper by selectively loosening and tightening the six hub bolts.
I did ask around, but found that everyone I asked always reused the original insulators.
So my question is, has anyone else experienced this problem, and were you able to correct it? What did you do?
HEY, you're not Wilbur!Tags: None
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