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  • '64 Instrument dash rocker switch

    The switch burnt out so I replace it with a '65 switch this only works on hi setting. Has anyone experienced this? Does anyone know where to buy a '64 switch w/Grooves for the dash lighting. I've looked round they are sold out or not listed. Thanks Shane

    <div align="left">My first stude '61 champ in 1987</div id="left"> <center>Shane</center><center>Kennewick, WA</center>

  • #2
    Your problem (possibly with both) switches is that you have to reach under the dash and twist the Rheostat (dimmer) knob for the low setting to dim or brighten or light the Instruments. They may not work because of a burned out dimmer, if turning it with lights on and Instrument switch on Low does not do it.

    I never dim them anyway, with fresh GE 57TR (Transparent Red) bulbs they are not too bright on Hi, and should be fine.

    It takes 6 bulbs for Speedo, Instru. and Clock/Tach.

    The grooved switches are the ones Studebaker replaced (superseded) with the smooth ones, because of poor quality or unavailability in late '64 and '65 the smooth ones are hard enough to find, don't bother looking for ribbed ones.

    StudeRich
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner
    SDC Member Since 1967

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    • #3
      I've wondered - couldn't you disassemble a new smooth switch and install a grooved control on it?

      In my short time as a Studebaker owner, I've learned a very valuable lesson: never throw ANYTHING away, no matter how used up you think it is. 80% chance you'll need it again later.


      [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

      Clark in San Diego
      '63 F2/Lark Standard
      http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
      www.studebakersandiego.com

      Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

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      • #4
        Or might could do it the CASO way:

        Remove black/yellow lead from inst light switch B terminal.
        Remove black/white lead from inst light switch L terminal.
        Connect black/yellow lead directly to black/white lead.
        Turn on headlights and try adjusting rheostat.
        If instruments don't light, replace the rheostat.
        If instruments light up and vary with rheostat, leave it that way so inst lights come on automatically with head/parking lights, same as just about any other make of car. Leave existing switch in place as a dummy.

        Keoni Dibelka / HiloFoto
        In Hawai'i; on Hawai'i; on the Windward Side
        If da salt air never chew 'em up bumbye da lava will...

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        • #5
          I happen to have some of both - ribbed and plain.

          What's a fair price??

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          • #6
            I repaired the rheostat, after I pulled it out of the car I studied the unit. Tested the continuity, I had to dig the leads into the contacts to get a reading on the ohms meter. So I pulled up the three teeth holding it together using a pair of hemostats and cleaned all the contacts with x-acto knife and fine sand paper and topped it off with CRC 2-26 electrical properties spray. Put the unit back together using a small dull chisel benting the teeth over the ceramic base. Hook up the rheostat and it worked the knob feels smooth before it felt like sand was in the unit. Thanks StudeRich and fellas for the info.

            <div align="left">My first stude '61 champ in 1987</div id="left"> <center>Shane</center><center>Kennewick, WA</center>

            Comment


            • #7
              quote:Originally posted by showbizkid

              I've wondered - couldn't you disassemble a new smooth switch and install a grooved control on it?

              In my short time as a Studebaker owner, I've learned a very valuable lesson: never throw ANYTHING away, no matter how used up you think it is. 80% chance you'll need it again later.


              [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

              Clark in San Diego
              '63 F2/Lark Standard
              http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
              www.studebakersandiego.com
              I'm gonna give this a shot, to lube and clean contacts might make the switch last longer. All though it seems heat is the killer.

              <div align="left">My first stude '61 champ in 1987</div id="left"> <center>Shane</center><center>Kennewick, WA</center>

              Comment


              • #8
                quote:Originally posted by 55s

                I happen to have some of both - ribbed and plain.

                What's a fair price??
                Yeah, I can always use a spare or two, your guess is as good as mine. Do they work? and it seems that the heater switch has less wiring pins on the back. I know one of them is different.

                <div align="left">My first stude '61 champ in 1987</div id="left"> <center>Shane</center><center>Kennewick, WA</center>

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                • #9
                  "Heater" (fan) switch should have only three wires connected instead of four, but be physically the same as the headlight and inst light switches otherwise. It's the wiper switch that's physically different in the hook-ups department, IIRC.

                  Keoni Dibelka / HiloFoto
                  In Hawai'i; on Hawai'i; on the Windward Side
                  If da salt air never chew 'em up bumbye da lava will...

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    You can easily take the four hooks off of the back that hold the rocker plate to the body and put them on the '65 or '66 body. This also gives you the chance to put new light grease on the two plastic pins. I also repainted the switches with "Krylon" plastic paint. The switches look like new.

                    Those switches were also used by some big trucks - I think Mack and perhaps Winnibago motor homes if my memory is correct. Perhaps other members can verify this.

                    T-cab

                    [/IMG]

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                    • #11
                      Thanks for the info T-cab. Shane

                      <div align="left">My first stude '61 champ in 1987</div id="left"> <center>Shane</center><center>Kennewick, WA</center>

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                      • #12
                        StudeRich, do these GE 57TR bulbs have the same base as the 1157's? If so, where can one buy them?

                        MikeV
                        Pompano Beach, FL
                        83 Avanti 377I

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                        • #13
                          1157's fit the tail & parking lamps & would NEVER fit in a dash bulb socket. They have a double filiment & base unlike the dash bulbs that have a single filiment.

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