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Valve adjustment - turning the engine

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  • sbca96
    replied
    Thats funny! Yah, they are used like a relay, the leads connect
    between the starter solenoid + and the positive cable. That will
    just run a positive current to the solenoid and then it bridges a
    current to activate the starter.

    Tom

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  • showbizkid
    replied
    I have a melted one of those hanging in my garage. I'd never used one before, so I hooked it directly from the battery positive to the starter cable. Within 2 seconds of hitting the button, my hand was full of rapidly dripping plastic [xx(] I keep it to remind me of how much I don't know [:I]


    [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

    Clark in San Diego
    '63 F2/Lark Standard
    http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
    www.studebakersandiego.com

    Leave a comment:


  • sbca96
    replied
    For the win![]



    Tom

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  • maxpower1954
    replied
    Well, I adjusted the valves today - cold. I bought this R-1 Avanti at York back in 1993 from the Wittmers. They had re-built the engine a year before. Normally I'm complusive about these things, but looking thru my maintenance logbook, I couldn't find any record of having ever adjusted the valve clearances. And I've driven the car 30,000 miles...yikes!

    Using the remote starter button worked just great, thanks guys! Anyway, what I found suprised me. All the intakes were .025, or very close to it and the worst exhaust was .023! And I don't baby this car, although I don't run it as hard as I have in the past. I set them all to .027; a little clatter is comforting to me.

    Russ Farris

    Leave a comment:


  • jallen
    replied
    Don't forget, back in the day when oil was 30W and all good, it is
    now a dangerous carcinogin, so you might want to wear gloves.

    Leave a comment:


  • jallen
    replied
    If you work with the adjustment, engine hot, running, not only can
    you "feel" when the adjustment is right, you can hear it when the
    valves are too tight, it is messy, but it has always worked for me.

    Leave a comment:


  • jgrohs
    replied
    here's another take

    http://home.pacbell.net/jgrohs/Valve%20Adjustment

    1951 Rod
    1962 Champ
    1963 Avanti R1
    1963 GT Hawk R2 4 speed
    1964 Daytona Convertible
    2006 Avanti Convertible

    Leave a comment:


  • BRUCESTUDE
    replied
    I do it cold, and use the fan blade or socket method. I also use a jumper and a light hooked to the points; when the points open (light off) it's IGN time, and both valves are closed. I retard the timing so the IGN mark is at the pointer, btw.[8D]

    Leave a comment:


  • Aussie Hawk
    replied
    Last weekend I set the valve clearance on my son's '66 Valiant ute (slant 6). I did it the purist's way - hot and running, the result was rubbish. I think, unless you are very experienced at doing it this way, adjustment errors can be caused by the movement of the rockers, while trying to get the right gap with the feeler gauges. I then did it hot and not running, good result.

    Matt
    Brisbane
    Australia

    Leave a comment:


  • ozarkman
    replied
    Here's a little trick an old mechanic taught me:

    Set the intake and exhaust lash for one cylinder hot and running.
    Let the engine cool over night. Check the lash and write down the numbers.
    Set the valve lash on your other cylinders to your new cold numbers.

    Fred

    **I'm not the best speller...FireFox catches most of my mistakes, but I use IE at work**

    Leave a comment:


  • Mark57
    replied
    Just to make the conversation more diverse, I have attached a jpg of a tech tip for adjusting valves in a completely different manner - this document is courtesy of Brian Curtis and our neighbours in the Whatcom County Chapter.


    <h5>Mark
    '57 Transtar Deluxe
    Vancouver Island Chapter
    http://visdc.shawwebspace.ca/ </h5>


    Leave a comment:


  • sbca96
    replied
    I have used a remote engine starter in the past, you can get pretty
    good with it by bumping it just a tad.

    Tom

    '63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires

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  • studeken
    replied
    If you're looking for a precedent {no, not a President}, Gordon Williams set 'em at .025- dead cold, like overnite. Thanx, KP

    Ken Pyle

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  • Ron Dame
    replied
    Besides the fact the shop manual says so, does anyone know why hot and running is supposed to be better than hot and not running? Seems to me the only advantage is applying more anti-rust to everything under the hood.
    As long as the lifter is nowhere on the ramp of the cam, I'd think not running would be every bit as good.

    Comments?


    quote:Originally posted by Bud

    I always set valves with the engine hot and running. I have an old factory service part that consists of a two stud valve cover which is partially cut away to access the adjustment nuts. I found the cover years ago when a local Studebaker garage shut down and I bought some of the parts and tools. Bud
    Ron Dame
    '63 Champ

    Leave a comment:


  • raoul5788
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by Mike Van Veghten

    Hmm..yea..sorry.
    Another way is to connect a switch to the solenoid, "battery and start" posts and just bump it along with the starter.

    Raoul -
    Turning the crank is fine...if...the crank bolt lock tab is not in place.

    Mike
    You definitely need to bend the tab flat! BTW, it's Chip, Raoul is just my screen name.



    Chip
    '63 Cruiser daily driver
    '57 Packard wagon on the road!

    Leave a comment:

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