Valve adjustment - turning the engine

[maxpower1954]

It's been quite some time since I've checked the valve clearance on the Avanti - I seem to remember that to turn the engine I had remove the spark plugs, then turned the engine by pulling on the fan belt (obviously I'm of the cold engine valve setting school!) Anyone have a better way? Russ Farris

[Bud]

I always set valves with the engine hot and running. I have an old factory service part that consists of a two stud valve cover which is partially cut away to access the adjustment nuts. I found the cover years ago when a local Studebaker garage shut down and I bought some of the parts and tools. Bud

[StudeMann]

Russ,

You're correct in your approach but you can also do it with the engine hot.

The first time, I tried to adjust the valves with the engine hot and running and made a huge mess with oil everywhere because I don't have the partial valve covers like Bud has. Then I did it by warming up the engine and pulling off one valve cover to adjust the valves on one side only. After the first side was adjusted I put the valve cover back on and started it again to make sure it was warmed up fully again. Then I did the other side.

Jim

"Ahh, a bear in his natural habitat...a Studebaker!"

51 Land Cruiser (Elsie)
Jim Mann
Victoria, B.C.
Canada

[Mike Van Veghten]

Yep..

Just did an adj. this past weekend.

1. Engine cold.
2. Remove the plugs.
3. Use the fan blades to turn the crank shaft. Put pressure on the belt to make sure the crank moves.
4. Adjust valves by the lobe on BDC, 1-8-4-etc. method.
5. And back together.

Works very well...you dont get burned and you stay fairly clean.

Hot's fine...but you gain nothing except burnt fingers.
Hot running...is NOT accurate.

Mike

[maxpower1954]

Thanks Mike, but the Avanti has a fan clutch so using the fan blades to turn the engine won't work, right? I guess I could try grabbing the clutch
housing, but there has to be a better way. The last time I remember adjusting the valves was on a 1960 Lark which has a regular fan. Russ Farris

[raoul5788]

I use a 3/4" drive socket on the crankshaft bolt. Makes it easy!


Chip
'63 Cruiser daily driver
'57 Packard wagon on the road!

[Mike Van Veghten]

Hmm..yea..sorry.
Another way is to connect a switch to the solenoid, "battery and start" posts and just bump it along with the starter.

Raoul -
Turning the crank is fine...if...the crank bolt lock tab is not in place.

Mike

[Chucks Stude]

If you do it cold, what do you set the valve lash at?

[raoul5788]

quote:Originally posted by Chucks Stude

If you do it cold, what do you set the valve lash at?

.025-.027"

Chip
'63 Cruiser daily driver
'57 Packard wagon on the road!

[raoul5788]

quote:Originally posted by Mike Van Veghten

Hmm..yea..sorry.
Another way is to connect a switch to the solenoid, "battery and start" posts and just bump it along with the starter.

Raoul -
Turning the crank is fine...if...the crank bolt lock tab is not in place.

Mike

You definitely need to bend the tab flat! BTW, it's Chip, Raoul is just my screen name.



Chip
'63 Cruiser daily driver
'57 Packard wagon on the road!

[Ron Dame]

Besides the fact the shop manual says so, does anyone know why hot and running is supposed to be better than hot and not running? Seems to me the only advantage is applying more anti-rust to everything under the hood.
As long as the lifter is nowhere on the ramp of the cam, I'd think not running would be every bit as good.

Comments?

quote:Originally posted by Bud

I always set valves with the engine hot and running. I have an old factory service part that consists of a two stud valve cover which is partially cut away to access the adjustment nuts. I found the cover years ago when a local Studebaker garage shut down and I bought some of the parts and tools. Bud

Ron Dame
'63 Champ

[studeken]

If you're looking for a precedent {no, not a President}, Gordon Williams set 'em at .025- dead cold, like overnite. Thanx, KP

Ken Pyle

[sbca96]

I have used a remote engine starter in the past, you can get pretty
good with it by bumping it just a tad.

Tom

'63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires

[Mark57]

Just to make the conversation more diverse, I have attached a jpg of a tech tip for adjusting valves in a completely different manner - this document is courtesy of Brian Curtis and our neighbours in the Whatcom County Chapter.


<h5>Mark
'57 Transtar Deluxe
Vancouver Island Chapter
http://visdc.shawwebspace.ca/ </h5>

[ozarkman]

Here's a little trick an old mechanic taught me:

Set the intake and exhaust lash for one cylinder hot and running.
Let the engine cool over night. Check the lash and write down the numbers.
Set the valve lash on your other cylinders to your new cold numbers.

Fred

**I'm not the best speller...FireFox catches most of my mistakes, but I use IE at work**