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  • N8N
    replied
    well if you're running race gas, 10:1 squeeze and a blower, I BET it barks the tires! If you don't mind the fuel bill maybe you should just leave it that way...? You probably *need* the electronic ignition to light that off reliably but you already have it covered.

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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  • edpjr
    replied
    It definitely has the orange whirly thing engaged and operating. I went by to drop off the new brass PCV valve to my brother John tonite, so I drove the Avanti down the road. It runs real good and will bark a tire if you manually shift it from 1st to 2nd. John retarded the timing a bit and I'm using 100 octane fuel plus octane boost, so there's no spark knock either. I'm generally happy with the car's performance for now. I never expected 0-60 mph acceleration in 4.9 seconds like my '07 Vette will produce. [8D]

    quote:Originally posted by N8N

    IIRC you have R1 heads with the R-series pistons? that should be somewhere between 10:1 and 10.25:1 depending on your head gasket thickness (not 13:1) should not be a problem so long as you are running the best gas you can find (and you should be anyway with any R-motor) are in good tune and don't have the whirly thing engaged. Might even run OK with the blower engaged so long as you're not trying to embarrass any Supra owners.

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel
    "Proud owner of a Lark powered Avanti"

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  • N8N
    replied
    IIRC you have R1 heads with the R-series pistons? that should be somewhere between 10:1 and 10.25:1 depending on your head gasket thickness (not 13:1) should not be a problem so long as you are running the best gas you can find (and you should be anyway with any R-motor) are in good tune and don't have the whirly thing engaged. Might even run OK with the blower engaged so long as you're not trying to embarrass any Supra owners.

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel

    Leave a comment:


  • JDP
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by edpjr

    The museum takes 4-5 weeks to process the production order. I'll post the results for interested parties just as soon as they're made available to me.

    quote:Originally posted by JDP

    quote:Originally posted by edpjr

    I am still bitterly disappointed that the motor was not a real R2. [^]


    I know I should not reply, but did the build sheet show the car was not a R2 when built ? I know the car now needs R2 heads to be "real", but every other R2 part was there and there is no such thing as a unique R2 block.

    JDP/Maryland
    "Proud owner of a Lark powered Avanti"
    Thanks.

    JDP/Maryland

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  • edpjr
    replied
    The museum takes 4-5 weeks to process the production order. I'll post the results for interested parties just as soon as they're made available to me.

    quote:Originally posted by JDP

    quote:Originally posted by edpjr

    I am still bitterly disappointed that the motor was not a real R2. [^]


    I know I should not reply, but did the build sheet show the car was not a R2 when built ? I know the car now needs R2 heads to be "real", but every other R2 part was there and there is no such thing as a unique R2 block.

    JDP/Maryland
    "Proud owner of a Lark powered Avanti"

    Leave a comment:


  • edpjr
    replied
    The door is still an issue to be dealt with. Unfortunately, while I'm close to Asheville, I will be out of town on business. Thanks!

    quote:Originally posted by JeffDeWitt

    Edwin, did you get the door situation fixed? Are you going to be at Tri-State?

    Jeff DeWitt
    http://carolinastudes.net
    "Proud owner of a Lark powered Avanti"

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  • JeffDeWitt
    replied
    Edwin, did you get the door situation fixed? Are you going to be at Tri-State?

    Jeff DeWitt
    http://carolinastudes.net

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  • JDP
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by edpjr

    I am still bitterly disappointed that the motor was not a real R2. [^]


    I know I should not reply, but did the build sheet show the car was not a R2 when built ? I know the car now needs R2 heads to be "real", but every other R2 part was there and there is no such thing as a unique R2 block.

    JDP/Maryland

    Leave a comment:


  • edpjr
    replied
    Yep. If I can keep emough 100 octane gas and Sea Foam in her, and with the timing retarded a bit, she may run good with real high-compression with out damaging the engine. My rear bumper was supposed to be ready last week, but I haven't had a callback yet. The body shop still has to re-install it for me, add the rest of the emblems, paint the underside of the hood and install the new insulation. I've got a new headliner kit (from Myers) and some other interior work to be done like replacing the door sills. I got the last set of those sills that SI had in stock for now. A guy off the forum sold me an extremely rare original Trico wiper arm to replace the one that flew off in traffic the week I got the car. With the engine freshly painted black and new rechromed valve covers she should be looking much better under the hood. We've replaced alot of the worn wiring, and that sure looks better. The new hoses will help too. I'll also feel more comfortable driving it after the original master cylinder is changed out to the dual reservoir version. I guess things are definitely looking up on the project although I am still bitterly disappointed that the motor was not a real R2. [^]


    quote:Originally posted by Gunslinger

    Congratulations on the improvements. As we've all found out, our cars are never done! There's always something else to do or improve regardless of how well it might be. As Raymond Loewy said as the title of his book..."Never Leave Well Enough Alone".

    Hoses and belts are aways a good thing to replace if they show any signs of wear.

    The ammeter should show some charge normally...assuming the gauge is accurate. That's merely a measure of rate of charge, not whether the system is charging volts. Check that out and see what the volts are...if you have a bad alternator that could fry a regulator...or simply a defective regulator as you think you might have.

    The tach has a sending unit under the driver's side of the dash. They're famous for going bad with age. It can be rebuilt or you can buy a reproduction sending unit from one of the vendors that advertise in Turning Wheels or Avanti Magazine.

    It looks good so far. Avanti's are unique cars and sometimes have unique problems, but nothing unsurmountable. Best of luck.




    Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, cocky and in general a malcontent.
    "Proud owner of a Lark powered Avanti"

    Leave a comment:


  • Gunslinger
    replied
    Congratulations on the improvements. As we've all found out, our cars are never done! There's always something else to do or improve regardless of how well it might be. As Raymond Loewy said as the title of his book..."Never Leave Well Enough Alone".

    Hoses and belts are aways a good thing to replace if they show any signs of wear.

    The ammeter should show some charge normally...assuming the gauge is accurate. That's merely a measure of rate of charge, not whether the system is charging volts. Check that out and see what the volts are...if you have a bad alternator that could fry a regulator...or simply a defective regulator as you think you might have.

    The tach has a sending unit under the driver's side of the dash. They're famous for going bad with age. It can be rebuilt or you can buy a reproduction sending unit from one of the vendors that advertise in Turning Wheels or Avanti Magazine.

    It looks good so far. Avanti's are unique cars and sometimes have unique problems, but nothing unsurmountable. Best of luck.




    Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, cocky and in general a malcontent.

    Leave a comment:


  • edpjr
    replied
    The old girl has responded tremendously well to the replacement dist, coil, wires, and spark plugs. It actually runs like one would expect a Studebaker performance car too now (and why not at maybe 13:1 compression?). I decided to delay any immediate work on the carb or fuel system. I've replaced the filters and cleaned the gas out several times. So since there's no apparent leaks and the car runs, idles and cranks, I'm gonna leave the carb alone for now. We've still got to replace the PCV valve and a plethora of rotten hoses. The car does seem to have claimed another voltage regulator though. It's always slightly charging per the ammeter and the Tachometer has gone haywire again. It's got a new high CCA battery. The last time it behaved like that the VR was shot. I've got to give my younger brother credit, he's done a lot of very good mechanic work for me. And, we're not near done yet.

    [img][/img]

    "Proud owner of a Lark powered Avanti"

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  • sweetolbob
    replied
    EDPJR

    FYI, in the September 2009 issue of Turning Wheels there is a 1964 Avanti R-1 for sale for $5000. The important part of the ad is it states (R-2 upgrade parts available). Might be a decent idea to ask the advertiser if those parts are available seperately. Ontario, Canada address, some of our friends north of the border might have knowledge of the seller.

    Just a suggestion

    Bob

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  • edpjr
    replied
    I got the brass "PCV" valve off eBay. I'll have to see if I can find a nameplate on the carb...

    quote:Originally posted by N8N

    the carb number should be stamped on the baseplate, not a separate tag - it's facing the front of the car, on the passenger side, right under the mounting stud hole.

    Ed - where did you find an original R-series check valve? those are somewhat rare... I would keep the original and see if it can be degummed rather than tossing it, even if you do use the new one.

    You might want to ask Dave what plug gap he recommends with the new dist - you may be able to successfully run a wider gap than .035" which will make for a more powerful spark.

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel
    "Proud owner of a Lark powered Avanti"

    Leave a comment:


  • Gunslinger
    replied
    It's a bit late now (unless you re-install the old spark plugs), but a good way to clean out the combustion chambers and carburetor jets is to use a can of Seafoam. Pull the large vacuum line off the brake booster and slowly pour it down the hose as the engine is running. It will smoke up the neighborhood but will clean the system out. You can re-install the clean spark plugs afterwards. Another can added to the fuel tank will help with the fuel lines as well.




    Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, cocky and in general a malcontent.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dan White
    replied
    Jon Myers sells or did sell NOS PCV valves.

    Dan White
    64 R1 GT
    64 R2 GT

    Leave a comment:

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