Latest on the Supercharged R1 Avanti

[edpjr]

The T-bow distributor is safely installed and working now. We've also changed out the plugs (J-12Y) and wires (from SI). I've got to give the old car credit for even running with the worn-out single point Prestolite distributor and burnt up points and plugs. I used to work in the Auto Parts biz, and I've seen some badly eroded plugs. But two of these old plugs barely had any electrode left. They were all mis-gapped too. One that was still intact was gapped at 0.050". She cranks and runs much better now. Next up will be to clean all the remaining syrup and gum out of the fuel system and carb. The gas filter has already been replaced once. I have a kit to rebuild an R2 carb. So, I sure hope it really has an R2 carb. I've got a new brass PCV valve, a new set of re-chromed valve covers, oil caps and gaskets too. I also bought a dual master cylinder swap-over kit. So, we should be busy under the hood for awhile yet. I decided to put the pursuit of original R2 heads on the backburner for awhile. But, I did order the original production records for Avanti R2333 from the Studebaker Museum. Forrester's has informed me the rechromed rear bumper should be back to me by next week. So, despite all the setbacks, progress is being made on this car. [8D]
[img][/img]

"Proud owner of a Lark powered Avanti"

[jlmccuan]

Glad to see you moving forward. Is the tag on the carb? With the number we can give you the application.

Jim
Often in error, never in doubt

____1966 Avanti II RQA 0088_______________1963 Avanti R2 63R3152____________Rabid Snail Racing

[N8N]

the carb number should be stamped on the baseplate, not a separate tag - it's facing the front of the car, on the passenger side, right under the mounting stud hole.

Ed - where did you find an original R-series check valve? those are somewhat rare... I would keep the original and see if it can be degummed rather than tossing it, even if you do use the new one.

You might want to ask Dave what plug gap he recommends with the new dist - you may be able to successfully run a wider gap than .035" which will make for a more powerful spark.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

[41 Frank]

I bought my R-2 PCV valve from Dave Thibeault, he has them for $9.00. Likely not NOS but I don't care as long as it works.

[Dan White]

Jon Myers sells or did sell NOS PCV valves.

Dan White
64 R1 GT
64 R2 GT

[Gunslinger]

It's a bit late now (unless you re-install the old spark plugs), but a good way to clean out the combustion chambers and carburetor jets is to use a can of Seafoam. Pull the large vacuum line off the brake booster and slowly pour it down the hose as the engine is running. It will smoke up the neighborhood but will clean the system out. You can re-install the clean spark plugs afterwards. Another can added to the fuel tank will help with the fuel lines as well.




Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, cocky and in general a malcontent.

[edpjr]

I got the brass "PCV" valve off eBay. I'll have to see if I can find a nameplate on the carb...

quote:Originally posted by N8N

the carb number should be stamped on the baseplate, not a separate tag - it's facing the front of the car, on the passenger side, right under the mounting stud hole.

Ed - where did you find an original R-series check valve? those are somewhat rare... I would keep the original and see if it can be degummed rather than tossing it, even if you do use the new one.

You might want to ask Dave what plug gap he recommends with the new dist - you may be able to successfully run a wider gap than .035" which will make for a more powerful spark.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

"Proud owner of a Lark powered Avanti"

[sweetolbob]

EDPJR

FYI, in the September 2009 issue of Turning Wheels there is a 1964 Avanti R-1 for sale for $5000. The important part of the ad is it states (R-2 upgrade parts available). Might be a decent idea to ask the advertiser if those parts are available seperately. Ontario, Canada address, some of our friends north of the border might have knowledge of the seller.

Just a suggestion

Bob

[edpjr]

The old girl has responded tremendously well to the replacement dist, coil, wires, and spark plugs. It actually runs like one would expect a Studebaker performance car too now (and why not at maybe 13:1 compression?). I decided to delay any immediate work on the carb or fuel system. I've replaced the filters and cleaned the gas out several times. So since there's no apparent leaks and the car runs, idles and cranks, I'm gonna leave the carb alone for now. We've still got to replace the PCV valve and a plethora of rotten hoses. The car does seem to have claimed another voltage regulator though. It's always slightly charging per the ammeter and the Tachometer has gone haywire again. It's got a new high CCA battery. The last time it behaved like that the VR was shot. I've got to give my younger brother credit, he's done a lot of very good mechanic work for me. And, we're not near done yet.

[img][/img]

"Proud owner of a Lark powered Avanti"

[Gunslinger]

Congratulations on the improvements. As we've all found out, our cars are never done! There's always something else to do or improve regardless of how well it might be. As Raymond Loewy said as the title of his book..."Never Leave Well Enough Alone".

Hoses and belts are aways a good thing to replace if they show any signs of wear.

The ammeter should show some charge normally...assuming the gauge is accurate. That's merely a measure of rate of charge, not whether the system is charging volts. Check that out and see what the volts are...if you have a bad alternator that could fry a regulator...or simply a defective regulator as you think you might have.

The tach has a sending unit under the driver's side of the dash. They're famous for going bad with age. It can be rebuilt or you can buy a reproduction sending unit from one of the vendors that advertise in Turning Wheels or Avanti Magazine.

It looks good so far. Avanti's are unique cars and sometimes have unique problems, but nothing unsurmountable. Best of luck.




Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, cocky and in general a malcontent.

[edpjr]

Yep. If I can keep emough 100 octane gas and Sea Foam in her, and with the timing retarded a bit, she may run good with real high-compression with out damaging the engine. My rear bumper was supposed to be ready last week, but I haven't had a callback yet. The body shop still has to re-install it for me, add the rest of the emblems, paint the underside of the hood and install the new insulation. I've got a new headliner kit (from Myers) and some other interior work to be done like replacing the door sills. I got the last set of those sills that SI had in stock for now. A guy off the forum sold me an extremely rare original Trico wiper arm to replace the one that flew off in traffic the week I got the car. With the engine freshly painted black and new rechromed valve covers she should be looking much better under the hood. We've replaced alot of the worn wiring, and that sure looks better. The new hoses will help too. I'll also feel more comfortable driving it after the original master cylinder is changed out to the dual reservoir version. I guess things are definitely looking up on the project although I am still bitterly disappointed that the motor was not a real R2. [^]

quote:Originally posted by Gunslinger

Congratulations on the improvements. As we've all found out, our cars are never done! There's always something else to do or improve regardless of how well it might be. As Raymond Loewy said as the title of his book..."Never Leave Well Enough Alone".

Hoses and belts are aways a good thing to replace if they show any signs of wear.

The ammeter should show some charge normally...assuming the gauge is accurate. That's merely a measure of rate of charge, not whether the system is charging volts. Check that out and see what the volts are...if you have a bad alternator that could fry a regulator...or simply a defective regulator as you think you might have.

The tach has a sending unit under the driver's side of the dash. They're famous for going bad with age. It can be rebuilt or you can buy a reproduction sending unit from one of the vendors that advertise in Turning Wheels or Avanti Magazine.

It looks good so far. Avanti's are unique cars and sometimes have unique problems, but nothing unsurmountable. Best of luck.




Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, cocky and in general a malcontent.

"Proud owner of a Lark powered Avanti"

[JDP]

quote:Originally posted by edpjr

I am still bitterly disappointed that the motor was not a real R2. [^]

I know I should not reply, but did the build sheet show the car was not a R2 when built ? I know the car now needs R2 heads to be "real", but every other R2 part was there and there is no such thing as a unique R2 block.

JDP/Maryland

[JeffDeWitt]

Edwin, did you get the door situation fixed? Are you going to be at Tri-State?

Jeff DeWitt
http://carolinastudes.net

[edpjr]

The door is still an issue to be dealt with. Unfortunately, while I'm close to Asheville, I will be out of town on business. Thanks!

quote:Originally posted by JeffDeWitt

Edwin, did you get the door situation fixed? Are you going to be at Tri-State?

Jeff DeWitt
http://carolinastudes.net

"Proud owner of a Lark powered Avanti"

[edpjr]

The museum takes 4-5 weeks to process the production order. I'll post the results for interested parties just as soon as they're made available to me.

quote:Originally posted by JDP

quote:Originally posted by edpjr

I am still bitterly disappointed that the motor was not a real R2. [^]

I know I should not reply, but did the build sheet show the car was not a R2 when built ? I know the car now needs R2 heads to be "real", but every other R2 part was there and there is no such thing as a unique R2 block.

JDP/Maryland

"Proud owner of a Lark powered Avanti"