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  • '50 Champion running hot

    Our 9G '50 Champion is running hot.

    We replaced the thermostat thinking that it was the issue, but no dice. The antifreeze level is right and the car runs perfectly otherwise.

    The radiator was flushed less than 500 miles ago, but ... ? Any ideas?

    Thanks so much.

    Regards,
    Jason

    Jersey2J | Sacramento, CA
    9G 1950 Studebaker Champion
    W3 4-Door DeLuxe
    Visit my Studebaker website. Updated often with Studebaker minutia - http://www.studebakerguide.com

  • #2
    was the engine block and heads flushed also???is the engine org.or has it been rebuilt.the reason i ask is if you reverse flush the block and head you could be opening pandora box.but i belive in reverse flushing but you got to make sure that you rinse the enging out real good or little bitss o rust willl be floating around and start pumps and the like

    2006,f-150,2x4,v-6,5-speed manual,8ft bed, will post stude info when i get it on the road.

    Comment


    • #3
      I'm a firm believer in having a radiator of unknown condition pressure and flow tested. They are relatively easy to R&R and you cure issues before they become problems.

      I also agree with Charles. Fewer things will make an engine run cooler than really getting the gunk out of the block. If you can get in there, you'll find chunks of casting sand that have become concretions and bits of sprues left over from the casting process. This stuff just collects more and more contaminants from the coolant and, over decades, can make a once temperate block in to a little hades.

      Brad Johnson
      Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
      '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight
      Brad Johnson,
      SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
      Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
      '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
      '56 Sky Hawk in process

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      • #4
        If the water not boiling over from your radiator then you do nothave a problem. Try putting a temperary temperature gage from Kragens to see if it reads different than whats on your dash.

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks everyone. The reality is that the engine is running hot, so the gauge is accurate.

          Is there a common issue and quick fix for bad radiator circulation? Bum water pumps?

          Just thinking aloud here.

          Jersey2J | Sacramento, CA
          9G 1950 Studebaker Champion
          W3 4-Door DeLuxe
          Visit my Studebaker website. Updated often with Studebaker minutia - http://www.studebakerguide.com

          Comment


          • #6
            quote:

            Is there a common issue and quick fix for bad radiator circulation? Bum water pumps?

            Just thinking aloud here.
            I suppose if you have checked everything else out you could take off the water pump and check the impeller. If it's not completly rusted away then it wasn't the problem.

            You probably have a cloged radiator. You can try that radiator flush stuff from the parts store, but I haven't had realy good luck with that stuff. You best bet is to take the radiator out and have someone rod it out or change the core.

            You could also see if someone in your local club has an extra radiator that you could test in your car.

            Fred

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            • #7
              Have you got the right radiator cap. The 50 takes a long or deep cap 7 lbs. The 50 is different than any other radiator cap.


              7G-Q1 49 2R12 10G-F5 56B-D4 56B-F2

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              • #8
                Reminds me of a problem I had years ago it wasnt with a studebaker ( it was a euro car ) but it kept overheating so I ran some tests on it , checked the hoses , changed the termostat , had the radiator rodded and cored and it still ran hot so as my last resort I changed the least obvious and least expensive part ( the radiator cap ) and sure enough once I change that it ran perfectly no more overheating .[:I] sometimes we jump to a conclusion thinking the worst when actually it could be the easiest thing.
                Good Luck , Blake

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                • #9
                  I had a friend whose car ran hot because of a leaky fuel pump. Turns out it was pumping gas into the crankcase and thinning out the oil enough to cause excess friction. So, it could be anything.

                  mike

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                  • #10
                    Thanks all. We identified the culprit and his associate.

                    The radiator needs a new core, which as many of you know doesn't come cheap. The rods and fins are toast. Also, we were missing 20% of the rad's capability due to a hasty crimping operation performed prior to our owning the car.

                    I'd also be wise to start saving for a new head gasket. A sniff test was performed to help diagnose the radiator malaise, and I'm on the cusp of engine unhappiness.

                    Again, thanks for your feedback... good people on this forum.

                    Jersey2J | Sacramento, CA
                    9G 1950 Studebaker Champion
                    W3 4-Door DeLuxe
                    Visit my Studebaker website. Updated often with Studebaker minutia - http://www.studebakerguide.com

                    Comment

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