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64 Daytona Carburetor questions

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  • #16
    Jallen

    Are you indicating that new points solved the problem for you?

    Thank you

    Comment


    • #17
      Glenn,

      Click on my username and then send me an E-mail by clicking where it asks you to. Send me your mailing address and I'll send you a gasket for free.


      1957 Transtar 1/2ton
      1963 Cruiser
      1960 Larkvertible V8
      1958 Provincial wagon
      1953 Commander coupe
      1957 President two door

      No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

      Comment


      • #18
        Hi Glen, short answer, yes. That may or may not solve your problem.
        As several other forum members have pointed out, it could be almost
        anything, but an itermittant problem, as you describe, is more than
        likely electrical, if you are sure the problem isn't in the gas tank.
        New points, rotor, and cap won't hurt, and might solve your problem,
        but the more I think about your symptoms, it could even be a bad ground, there's a lot to be said for clean and shiney when it comes
        to electrical connections. And the one thing I do now that I didn't
        do in the past is use a good electrical corrosion guard. Good luck and post some pictures.

        Comment


        • #19
          The carb will be here early next week. Tom B previously noted that:

          "You might want to verify that the accell. pump is working. It's leather and needs Neatsfoot oil. It could have dried out on the shelf in the last 1/2 century. Well, 46 years."

          Can anyone tell me how to check the accelerator pump and apply neatsfoot oil if necessary?

          I also wanted to publicly thank "Mr. Biggs" for kindly mailing me the mounting gasket for the carburetor.

          Thanks again!

          Comment


          • #20
            Glenn,

            You're welcome on the gasket. What I would do (say) - to keep you from having to take the carb apart, is this.

            When you work the accelerator, there's a rod poking up that actuates a flat metal arm attached to the top of the carb. The other end of this arm operates a rod that goes in and out thru a hole in the carb top. There's likely a little metal cap riding on that rod - with maybe a felt washer underneath it. I'd say if you can get a generous squirt or drizzle of Neats Foot Oil into that hole that the rod plunges thru, you'll get the leather lubed up enough to do the job. Any excess won't hurt a thing as it'll be diluted with gas in short order.


            1957 Transtar 1/2ton
            1963 Cruiser
            1960 Larkvertible V8
            1958 Provincial wagon
            1953 Commander coupe
            1957 President two door

            No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

            Comment


            • #21
              Last questions

              1. Approximately what foot pounds of torque are required for the 4 bolts that hold the carb to the intake manifold?

              2. Are there any tricks to installing the carb or instructions for doing the installation available? My guess is that its pretty straight forward.

              The carb has arrived and the owner is anxious to get it installed, but I wont be able to do it until next weekend.

              Thank you

              Comment


              • #22
                Book says 26 to 30 ftlbs, Glenn. Yeah, it's pretty straightforward. Basically the reverse of taking the old one off. Once you get it on, test crank it a bit and check for fuel leaks where you've worked with the fuel line. The choke should want to be lightly shut when the engine's cold. Pull the throttle back only partway and confirm that the choke's just shut. Then pull the throttle all the way open and it should nudge the choke butterfly a bit open. EDIT: Don't forget to reinstall the throttle return springs!

                It'll take a bit of cranking for the pump to fill the carb, then push the pedal to the floor once quick and it should start. If it starts, check for leaks again and let it warm up. Occassionally blip the throttle to allow the choke to open up as it warms up. Once the engine is fully warmed, the choke should be wide open - actually, fully open probably before the engine is really at full temp.

                Once it's fully warmed, you need to adjust the idle bleed air screws on the front of the base. Was there ANY paperwork or instructions that came with the carb to tell how you do this???


                1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                1963 Cruiser
                1960 Larkvertible V8
                1958 Provincial wagon
                1953 Commander coupe
                1957 President two door

                No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                Comment


                • #23
                  Mystery is close to being solved. It is electrical. I will post a new topic. Thanks everyone for the great help

                  Comment

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