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  • rickburgen
    replied
    the hole in the engine doesnt see possible to me to be the freeze plugs. The hole that I felt was the size of a pencil tip. I just received the plugs I had ordered, and they seem way to big to be the cause.

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  • 62champ
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by rickburgen

    I have confirmed it is a expansion plug problem..
    Expansion plug (always called them freeze plugs) were probably all put in at the same time - so they are the same age. After this one is fixed, I would check all the others - just to be safe.


    <div align="left">1960 Lark 60S-W4</div id="left"> <div align="right">1962 7E7-122</div id="right">
    [img=left]http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/62champ/car/8b0ac4c6.jpg[/img=left]
    [img=right]http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/62champ/car/DSC02237.jpg[/img=right]

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  • rickburgen
    replied
    I have confirmed it is a expansion plug problem..

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  • bige
    replied
    Did you verify where the leak is coming from visually? Water under pressure can begin from one place and end up in a very different place very easily.

    You need to fill it up with water, Make sure you put the cap back on tightly, jack it up so you can get underneath, run the car until it's hot, shut it off and then get under there with a light and look for the source of the leak.

    Expansion plugs are not the easiest thing to replace and there are lots of potential sources for water leaks. They may be bad but you need to make sure and not just assume that's the problem because it's suggested on the forum.

    ErnieR




    On its way to a 15.097 Island Dragway Great Meadows NJ Spring 2006.

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  • N8N
    replied
    You can buy rubber expandable core plugs that install with just a wrench. You'll still need to knock the old one out, but the rubber ones are perfectly secure. They can be removed again when you want to do a real block flush. I can't say that they'll last for 40 years, but they're better than 40 year old steel ones.

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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  • rickburgen
    replied
    Do I have to get new expansion plugs, or can I put someting else in it for the meantime

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  • fmarshall
    replied
    If you solidly & safely place the car on jack stands, it is possible to star and run the car while lifted. Then it is easier to see where the water is coming from.

    If it is a bad core plug, then it will need to be addressed. I have seen block sealer used to add to the cooling system on fresh rebuilds to seal up a slight leak, when replacing the plug with some sealer around it didn't fully work. But I would do it to an engine that's been running for miles and miles.

    New expansion plugs and the cleaning procedure mentioned above is the correct way, assuming it to be a core plug.

    ========================
    63 Avanti R2, 4-Speed, 3.73 TT
    Martinez, CA

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  • rickburgen
    replied
    Do I have to get new expansion plugs, or can I put someting else in it for the meantime

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  • gordr
    replied
    I'd be thinking expansion plug (aka core plug or frost plug).

    Common for them to be rusted through on a car this old. Knock them all out, then use screwdrivers, coat hanger wire, and a pressure hose to clean all the crud and sludge out of the water jacket. Replace the two block drain plugs as well.

    It's a dirty, tedious, messy job, but the parts investment is well under $20. Your engine will cool much better with the sludge gone, too. Unless you KNOW this job has been done recently, you can safely assume it needs to be done.

    Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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  • rickburgen
    replied
    So, I tried looking for the place where the coolant was leaking from, and it is coming from somewhere either on or connecting to the engine. I felt a hole, but couldn't see where it was coming from.

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  • fmarshall
    replied
    Left front as in driver's front. It could be:

    1. Overflow hose from the sure tank.
    2. The surge tank.
    3. The radiator
    4. An expansion plug rusted through.
    5. Upper radiator hose
    6. Water manifold
    7. Bleeder valve.

    All of those could get water all the way to the tire, via a spritz or spray. The upper radiator hose leaking near the battery is a likely candidate. You should be able to visually examine each of those points for evidence of leakage.



    ========================
    63 Avanti R2, 4-Speed, 3.73 TT
    Martinez, CA

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  • rickburgen
    replied
    I saw it coming down near the left tire.

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  • gordr
    replied
    Near the tires? Both of them? A leaky heater hose would dri
    ibble near the right front tire.

    Now, if the radiator leaks, coolant could fill the radiator support, and then dribble out each end in front of each tire.

    If you are chasing down leaks, it's perfectly OK to use plain water in the system. Just replace it with the proper antifreeze mixture once the leaks are fixed.

    Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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  • rickburgen
    replied
    I saw it coming out, it was near the tires. I believe it all drained out. I filled up two tin container with it. Can I try adding more coolant and watch where it is coming from?

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  • gordr
    replied
    Coolant leak? If it is dripping, take note of where the drip lands, and try to eyeball the trajectory of the droplets. If it loses coolant, but never leaves a puddle, you may have a head gasket leak, and be burning the coolant in one of the cylinders. You MIGHT see steam from one or both tailpipes, even with a fully warmed-up engine. (Steam is perfectly normal from a cold engine!)

    If you suspect a head gasket leak, pull all the spark plugs and look at the insulator tips. The normal color is tan or light brown, but if a cylinder is burning coolant (or plain water), the insulator tip on that plug will be unusually clean and white, as it has been effectively "steam-cleaned".

    But check your hoses, including the heater hoses. Is the carpet wet under the heater?

    A common leak point on a car that has been idle a long time is the mechanical seal on the water pump. A pump so affected will leak coolant out of the weep hole on the underside of the bearing housing. If you can reach a finger under the water pump pulley, and touch the front lower face of the pump body, and feel moisture there, chances are it's the water pump seal gone. Cure is a new water pump, which is pretty inexpensive.

    An Avanti-specific source of water leaks is the coolant expansion tank, which is perched on the thermostat housing. It's pretty fragile, and often develops stress cracks, which soon become leaks.

    A useful tool for troubleshooting leaks is a cooling system pressure tester, which temporarily replaces the radiator cap with special cap attached to a hand pump and a gauge. It allows you to pressurize a cold engine, which makes "feeling for" leaks a whole lot safer. You install the tool, operate the hand pump until the gauge pointer reaches a specified point, and then watch and see if it remains there, or if the pressure falls off. A leak-free system will hold pressure for at least a few minutes; one with a bad leak my never pressure up at all.

    Many auto parts stores now have tool rental or loan programs, and that would be where to go for the tester. They are kind of expensive to buy, especially for a (hopefully) one time use.

    Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

    Leave a comment:

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