I have another issue with the engine wanting to continue to run after the ignition switch is turned off. It is similar to a run on (dieseling) problem with too much timing, but it almost seems as if it might just be the ignition switch is bad and not breaking the electrical contacts. I just put in a Mallory Unilite distributor, and have the timing set at 8 degrees with total at 30 degrees @ 3000 rpm. Also since this is happening, the amp gauge is showing a slight discharge and the charging system is reading only about 12.5 volts at the battery. Any thoughts out there? Thanks in advance. B.V.
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63 Avanti ignition run on?
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I put a Mallory in my car and no problem. You say that you have the timing set at such and such. This would not cause run on unless the idle speed is too fast. When you shut the ignition switch off there is no timing because there is no spark! Of course if you have some sort of electrical feedback thats a whole other problem.Frank van Doorn
Omaha, Ne.
1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD
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Thanks Frank, I'm not really suspectant of the Mallory or timing, but I am thinking that the ignition switch has failed partially and is somehow letting juice get back to the distributor somehow. The charging issue also throws a question into the equation. It is all happening since installing the distributor, and electrical problems are not my strengths. I don't want to start replacing parts randomly to try to find the problem. Thanks again B.V.
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Bill does it actually run, like normal run, or is it dieseling? Timing is rarely the culprit but idle set too high can do it. Check to see that the carb linkage is coming back all the way.
Or...did something get wired into a constant source of 12 volts that should be switched 12 volts?
ErnieR
On its way to a 15.097 Island Dragway Great Meadows NJ Spring 2006.
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Is it a manual? I usually time shutting off my Avanti with letting
out the clutch pedal, seems to stop the engine just fine, that is with
the brake held of course. I just attribute it to the Avanti has not
finished playing yet.
Tom
'63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires'63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them
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Run on or dieseling can also be caused by carbon deposits in the combustion chamber that can glow and work like a sparkplug and ignite the mixture,or an engine that has chronically high temperatures. One way of determining if the ignition system is staying powered up after shutting the ignition off is to hook a test light to the coil positive, run the engine, light will be on,shut key off, light should go out. If light goes out and engine keeps running it is dieseling.If light stays on you have a feedback from somewhere,possibly from alternator or a bad ignition switch.Frank van Doorn
Omaha, Ne.
1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD
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OK, thanks guys. this car has been completely restored from top to bottom, and only has been run 250 miles since I finished it. There should be no carbon build up, or any real reason mechanically for the engine to run on. Thanks Frank for the check on the coil with the test light. I will do it yet this evening. When the engine is running, it runs really well,and idles at the proper RPM. When I turn the ignition switch off, it is almost as if the switch is not being turned. Just a slight pause in the running and then it runs on as normal. Yes, the way I have been able to "kill" the engine is to turnoff the key and then let out the clutch. I am really suspicious of the ignition switch, so Franks idea will probably be the answer. Any more info again will be greatly appreciated. B.V.
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quote:Originally posted by bill van alstyne
When I turn the ignition switch off, it is almost as if the switch is not being turned. Just a slight pause in the running and then it runs on as normal.
Tom'63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them
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Try this. I'm assuming it's an R-1, and you are runnning 93 octane gas. My R-1 will sometimes diesel on a hot day, with everything but 100 octane avgas in it.
With the engine running with the switch off, can you let out the clutch and just drive away normally? If it's dieseling you won't be able to. Or you can...
At 30-35 mph, in second gear, turn off the iginition...for just a few seconds. No longer, you don't want a backfire when you turn it back on! If it dies like, well, the igniton was turned off, I seriously doubt if the switch is the problem. By having a load on the engine you can maybe narrow this down. Russ Farris1963 GT Hawk R-2 4-speed
1964 Avanti R-1 Auto
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Engines in the 70's had a electrically controlled throttle stop that would back off when the ign was shut off. This would completely shut down the throttle plate and would stop any "run on". Try turning the idle back to about 500 rpm and see if it corrects the problem. If it does you can move the throttle stop up until it returns and then set it back about 50 to 75 rpms.
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I talked to Bill's brother yesterday. I think everything is OK now, but it seems he had installed a relay in the system somewhere. This reminds us to mentions any modifications we have made to get the proper solution to the problem.
Claude Chmielewski
Studeski
Fillmore, Wisconsin
47 M-16 Truck
62 GT Hawk
63 Lark
64 Commander Wagonaire
50 Champion Regal (parts car)
63 GT Hawk R2
[img=left]http://www.studeski.com/62hawk/62hawka/dakota01_250.jpg[/img=left]
1936 Dictator
1950 Champion Regal 4 dr parts car
1953 Commander Regal HT
1953 2R5 Pickup
1947 M16 Truck
1960 Lark VIII Convertible
1960 Champ 5E7 step side short box
1962 Champ 7E5 no box
1962 GT Hawk
1963 Lark VI 4 dr
1963 GT Hawk R2
1964 Daytona Convertible
1964 Commander Wagonaire
“America will never be destroyed from the outside. If we falter and lose our freedoms, it will be because we destroyed ourselves.” ~ Abraham Lincoln
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Thanks Claude, actually the original modification was to convert the regulator to an electronic "Transpo" unit. To make a long, long story shorter, the problem originated when the alternator brush holder board broke, causing a brush and miscellaneous parts to spin around inside the alternator. This of course shorted it out and fried the regulator also. Now with the regulator bad, it sent battery voltage back through the ignition wire to the ignition switch. From there the juice went to the coil, which kept the engine running after the switch was turned off. So, now the alternator is rebuilt and we are awaiting a new regulator. Hope to have it all sorted out in a day or two. Thanks again all. B.V.
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An improperly wired alternator conversion can cause this condition also.
Back to basics!
What did you last change?
Hope you find it quick..
Hang in there...You'll get it!
Jeff[8D]HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)
Jeff
Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain
Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)
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