Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Repairing a Clutch Shaft Sleeve

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Repairing a Clutch Shaft Sleeve

    I am getting ready to install the engine back in my '63 R2 Lark, and noticed that the sleeve (part #199220)which joins the two halves of the clutch shaft is shot - there is no longer a postive connection. I know this is a common weak link on Studes, but I am curious how others have repaired it. I did a search, as well as recalling some old Turning Wheels articles, and thus know some people advise welding the shaft to the sleeve. Is this the best approach? I understand it would be stronger, but I wonder if it being rigid is the right option. I see the part is still available, but before I decide a path, I wanted to get some of your expert opinions.

    Thanks!

    Eric DeRosa

    '49 2R-5 (original Survivor)
    '63 R2 Lark (barely surviving)
    Eric DeRosa


    \'63 R2 Lark
    \'60 Lark Convertible

  • #2
    There should be [u]no</u> reason to weld the shaft(s) to the sleeve p/n 199220. The sleeve connects the clutch linkage components together with two pins. The pins provide the "solid connection".

    While SASCO does not list the sleeve, it is a common item used on Studes for years. Several of our vendors should have these. Check with Sudebaker International, Chuck at studebakerparts.com, Bob Kapetyen, etc.

    Paul
    Winston-Salem, NC
    Visit The NEW Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com
    Paul
    Winston-Salem, NC
    Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

    Comment


    • #3
      What *should* be welded is the bellcrank. I wonder if the sleeve is the same size as a double-D steering coupler? Anyone got one laying around to try? Sure could be a little beefier, for those guys running stronger-than-stock pressure plates.

      nate

      --
      55 Commander Starlight
      http://members.cox.net/njnagel
      --
      55 Commander Starlight
      http://members.cox.net/njnagel

      Comment


      • #4
        What should be welded is the "fingers" that contact the throw-out bearing. They are splined and weakly copper brazed to the cross shaft. Many times they will slip their splines and fail to engage the throw-out bearing fully. The result will be an annoying clutch pedal that won't keep adjustment.
        While things are apart, there is a bronze bushing in the bellhousing,(that the end of the cross shaft rides in) that can be replaced.
        A good bearing store or NAPA should be able to match it up.

        Bez Auto Alchemy
        573-242-3530

        http://auto-alchemy.com
        http://bez-auto-alchemy.blogspot.com
        Bez Auto Alchemy
        573-318-8948
        http://bezautoalchemy.com


        "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

        Comment


        • #5
          What should be welded is the "fingers" that contact the throw-out bearing. They are splined and weakly copper brazed to the cross shaft. Many times they will slip their splines and fail to engage the throw-out bearing fully. The result will be an annoying clutch pedal that won't keep adjustment.
          While things are apart, there is a bronze bushing in the bellhousing,(that the end of the cross shaft rides in) that can be replaced.
          A good bearing store or NAPA should be able to match it up.

          Bez Auto Alchemy
          573-242-3530

          http://auto-alchemy.com
          http://bez-auto-alchemy.blogspot.com
          Bez Auto Alchemy
          573-318-8948
          http://bezautoalchemy.com


          "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

          Comment


          • #6
            I got a complete clutch linkage setup off a 63 Lark V8.I would be willing to sell it all .If you are interested PM me.Thanks ChampTrucking@hotmail.com

            Comment


            • #7
              The trucks have a heavy duty sleeve (683833). I put one on my R 2 several years ago and with a heavy duty clutch, it is still holding. I think I bought an extra one and will look for it if you want me to send it to you.

              Ted


              quote:Originally posted by 2R2

              I am getting ready to install the engine back in my '63 R2 Lark, and noticed that the sleeve (part #199220)which joins the two halves of the clutch shaft is shot - there is no longer a postive connection. I know this is a common weak link on Studes, but I am curious how others have repaired it. I did a search, as well as recalling some old Turning Wheels articles, and thus know some people advise welding the shaft to the sleeve. Is this the best approach? I understand it would be stronger, but I wonder if it being rigid is the right option. I see the part is still available, but before I decide a path, I wanted to get some of your expert opinions.

              Thanks!

              Eric DeRosa

              '49 2R-5 (original Survivor)
              '63 R2 Lark (barely surviving)

              Comment


              • #8
                Ted, is the 683833 the same size (internally) as the stock car one? If so I might just order a couple myself, for insurance.

                nate

                --
                55 Commander Starlight
                http://members.cox.net/njnagel
                --
                55 Commander Starlight
                http://members.cox.net/njnagel

                Comment


                • #9
                  I can't say I measured them but it went on the Tomato with no problem. You can see looking at it, it is heavier made than the standard one.

                  Ted

                  quote:Originally posted by N8N

                  Ted, is the 683833 the same size (internally) as the stock car one? If so I might just order a couple myself, for insurance.

                  nate

                  --
                  55 Commander Starlight
                  http://members.cox.net/njnagel

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X