Repairing a Clutch Shaft Sleeve

[2R2]

I am getting ready to install the engine back in my '63 R2 Lark, and noticed that the sleeve (part #199220)which joins the two halves of the clutch shaft is shot - there is no longer a postive connection. I know this is a common weak link on Studes, but I am curious how others have repaired it. I did a search, as well as recalling some old Turning Wheels articles, and thus know some people advise welding the shaft to the sleeve. Is this the best approach? I understand it would be stronger, but I wonder if it being rigid is the right option. I see the part is still available, but before I decide a path, I wanted to get some of your expert opinions.

Thanks!

Eric DeRosa

'49 2R-5 (original Survivor)
'63 R2 Lark (barely surviving)

[r1lark]

There should be [u]no</u> reason to weld the shaft(s) to the sleeve p/n 199220. The sleeve connects the clutch linkage components together with two pins. The pins provide the "solid connection".

While SASCO does not list the sleeve, it is a common item used on Studes for years. Several of our vendors should have these. Check with Sudebaker International, Chuck at studebakerparts.com, Bob Kapetyen, etc.

Paul
Winston-Salem, NC
Visit The NEW Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

[N8N]

What *should* be welded is the bellcrank. I wonder if the sleeve is the same size as a double-D steering coupler? Anyone got one laying around to try? Sure could be a little beefier, for those guys running stronger-than-stock pressure plates.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight

http://members.cox.net/njnagel

[bezhawk]

What should be welded is the "fingers" that contact the throw-out bearing. They are splined and weakly copper brazed to the cross shaft. Many times they will slip their splines and fail to engage the throw-out bearing fully. The result will be an annoying clutch pedal that won't keep adjustment.
While things are apart, there is a bronze bushing in the bellhousing,(that the end of the cross shaft rides in) that can be replaced.
A good bearing store or NAPA should be able to match it up.

Bez Auto Alchemy
573-242-3530

http://auto-alchemy.com

http://bez-auto-alchemy.blogspot.com

[bezhawk]

What should be welded is the "fingers" that contact the throw-out bearing. They are splined and weakly copper brazed to the cross shaft. Many times they will slip their splines and fail to engage the throw-out bearing fully. The result will be an annoying clutch pedal that won't keep adjustment.
While things are apart, there is a bronze bushing in the bellhousing,(that the end of the cross shaft rides in) that can be replaced.
A good bearing store or NAPA should be able to match it up.

Bez Auto Alchemy
573-242-3530

http://auto-alchemy.com

http://bez-auto-alchemy.blogspot.com

[ChampTrucking]

I got a complete clutch linkage setup off a 63 Lark V8.I would be willing to sell it all .If you are interested PM me.Thanks ChampTrucking@hotmail.com

[Chicken Hawk]

The trucks have a heavy duty sleeve (683833). I put one on my R 2 several years ago and with a heavy duty clutch, it is still holding. I think I bought an extra one and will look for it if you want me to send it to you.

Ted

quote:Originally posted by 2R2

I am getting ready to install the engine back in my '63 R2 Lark, and noticed that the sleeve (part #199220)which joins the two halves of the clutch shaft is shot - there is no longer a postive connection. I know this is a common weak link on Studes, but I am curious how others have repaired it. I did a search, as well as recalling some old Turning Wheels articles, and thus know some people advise welding the shaft to the sleeve. Is this the best approach? I understand it would be stronger, but I wonder if it being rigid is the right option. I see the part is still available, but before I decide a path, I wanted to get some of your expert opinions.

Thanks!

Eric DeRosa

'49 2R-5 (original Survivor)
'63 R2 Lark (barely surviving)

[N8N]

Ted, is the 683833 the same size (internally) as the stock car one? If so I might just order a couple myself, for insurance.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight

http://members.cox.net/njnagel

[Chicken Hawk]

I can't say I measured them but it went on the Tomato with no problem. You can see looking at it, it is heavier made than the standard one.

Ted

quote:Originally posted by N8N

Ted, is the 683833 the same size (internally) as the stock car one? If so I might just order a couple myself, for insurance.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight

http://members.cox.net/njnagel