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Explorer Rear End

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  • Explorer Rear End

    I plan to install a late 3:73 Explorer rear end w/disc brakes in my 50 2R10. Has anyone ran that setup? The pinion is offset 2" and I am concerned I could have ujoint problem. Also wonder about driveshaft length. Is it too long for one piece or do I need to go back to the two piece?
    Engine and transmission is SBC (4" 283) w/700r transmission.

  • #2
    The 2" offset will not cause any issues with the drive line. If you look at some older vehicles like scouts, ect the driveline and axle was offset. 2" is near the max you would want to go. Although I ultimately didn't go this route due to the cost of the axle, I did research this subject extensively. As I own a Jeep wrangler this is a common swap, so I discussed this with the Jeep forum guys. They too stated that the axle offset is different than that of the Jeep and have not had any issues even in heavy rock crawling or offroading.

    You may need to remember that the explorer has a flange with out the U-joint boss. You will need to grab the driveline from the ford to get that flange. You are stating you are running a 700r4 so you could go a couple routes on the driveline. Depending on your distance. The Ford Crown Vic, Rangers, Explorers, mustangs ect all run the 8.8 rear with flanged pinon. The CV Police and Rangers all run aluminium driveshafts. NOTE: Rangers depending on engine and tranny combo have several types of drivelines. If you want a solid light weight drive line on the cheap I'd do the Crownvic as it is pretty long and a 1 piece unit. It can be cut to length as you need and you could have the GM end put on it or you could simple use a u-joint with two different cap sizes if it doesn't match up the GM yoke.


    • #3
      FYI, Last time I did a 4.6L ford with a t-45 into a mazda pickup, the drive line modification was kind of expensive.

      It was a two piece unit, I was originally quoted 150.00 sight unseen for just simply adding the ford u-joint to the front shaft. But when I pulled it out I realized all the u-joints and the carrier bearing were shot. It ended up costing me 450.00 parts and labor.
      But 150.00 from my understanding for a 1 piece shaft with shortening or changing yokes is common.


      • #4
        Check around your area for a "drive line" business. They frequently are co-located with large truck repair facilities. Here in B-Ham the shop will give you a complete drive shaft balanced and ready to install for $250 (+ or -). All you need to supply is the transmission type, differential type and distance center to center for the u-joints. Cost goes down if you supply the front yoke and in the case of the Explore the rear flange.

        Bill, Many Fords and one great Stude!