Questions about reinstalling stock steering wheel

[showbizkid]

My car has a stupid 10" Grant steering wheel put on by the PO. Slowly I've assembled all the parts (I think!) to put a correct steering wheel back on, but I can't find much information in the manual regarding the process. The parts manual drawings are a bit better, but I still need some help.



Q1: In the diagram, it shows the horn contact plate (1310-34-2) at the bottom, and it appears that the directional switch cancel cam (0621-45) is underneath it. I take this to mean that the contact plate goes onto the steering wheel hub and is held there by the cancel cam, right?

Q2: My "new" wheel has the cam installed, so I'll have to remove it to put the contact plate on. How do I get it off? And more important, how do I get it back on, and in what position should the tang be?

Q3: The switch spacers (1310-24-1) are available from SASCO, but Lord help me, I don't want to pay $7 each for these. Can I make them out of PVC or something?

Q4: The shop manual says that there is a "nut and lock plate" that hold the wheel onto the steering post, but I find no parts in this drawing that appear to be a "lock plate". Any clues? Or is this a leftover bit of text from a previous manual?

Finally, is the wheel reinstalled dry, or should I put a little bit of anti-seize on the splines to ease it going back on?

Thanks for putting up with all my yakkin' [:I]


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard

http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

https://www.studebakersandiego.com

[Bredehoft]

Hi Clark,

I am no expert, but I have had my wheel off and on a couple times, so I will try to help out.

1. No. The cancel cam is on the steering wheel - as you indicate in Q2. The contact plate just kind of floats there.

2. Don't remove the cam.

3. These are basically insulators. They keep the screws from touching the horn bar. The whole assembly floats on springs that keep the horn bar from touching the contact plate. If they were not insulators, the horn would be blowing constantly. I would assume they could be made from anything - even a wooden dowel - if they filled the purpose. Also, you won't want to tighten those screws down tight or your horn bar won't rock (and will always blow the horn).

4. I do not recall a lock plate - just the nut.

I hope this helps - and anyone feel free to correct my errors!


--george

1963 Lark Daytona HT - 63V J8 175
53-54 C/Ks, 55 Speedsters, 63 Daytonas, Wagonaires Registries

[chamberlainbandad]

lock plate usually has a tab to keep it from turning and then you would bend the outside edge up against the nut to keep it from backing off, and no do not lubricate the shaft with anything it is suppost to be a dry fit on a taper

ap