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Rear brake drum removal.

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  • #16
    I got my rear wheel puller from Studebaker International a couple of years ago. It's the correct one and worked like a charm. Don't remember what I paid for it though.
    Rog

    '59 Lark VI Regal Hardtop
    Smithtown,NY
    '59 Lark VI Regal Hardtop
    Smithtown,NY
    Recording Secretary, Long Island Studebaker Club

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    • #17
      What a timely thread. I got the newly acquired 63 Avanti running nicely but needed to get it to stop. Tried to remove the rear drums but they were on solid. An old neighbor had an old cast drum puller (love the old tools). Put it on and applied pressure with a 1/2" breaker bar. Got it as tight as possible and was leaving it for the night ( as noted in your replies). Didn't get 20 feet and it sounded like a .38 caliber. Glad someone suggested leaving the axle nut on. Thanks for all the tips guys. Tomorrow the other side.
      Richard

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      • #18
        Whatever you do, don't use a "drum puller" with hooked arms that grab the rear edge of the brake drum. They are meant for drums that readily demount from the hub. Studebaker drums (except for the late models with flanged axles) are fixed to the hub by swaging shoulders on the wheel studs, and if you try using the wrong "drum puller", you will wind up wrecking the mounting surface of the drum. Guaranteed!

        Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
        Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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        • #19
          Since every Studebaker service department used it, its odd to me I have never seen the factory tool hub puller or come across one. Picture is in the shop manual, basically you bolt it up after loosening the castle nut, then drive a big wedge piece into a slot in the puller at the axle end and it comes right off ( I've heard.) R1 Lark (Paul W.) I think told me years ago he has one...anyone else on here? Russ Farris R-1 Avanti
          R-2 GT Hawk
          1963 GT Hawk R-2 4-speed
          1964 Avanti R-1 Auto

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          • #20
            quote:Originally posted by maxpower1954

            Since every Studebaker service department used it, its odd to me I have never seen the factory tool hub puller or come across one. Picture is in the shop manual, basically you bolt it up after loosening the castle nut, then drive a big wedge piece into a slot in the puller at the axle end and it comes right off ( I've heard.) R1 Lark (Paul W.) I think told me years ago he has one...anyone else on here? Russ Farris R-1 Avanti
            R-2 GT Hawk
            Yes, I have seen and used one of that wedge style. A garage where I worked part time had one. The owner of the garage had been the head mechanic for a Studebaker dealership. He and I both prefered the three leg style. The last that I knew, Paul V. had that particular Studebaker style hub puller.

            Gary L.
            Wappinger, NY

            SDC member since 1968
            Studebaker enthusiast much longer
            Gary L.
            Wappinger, NY

            SDC member since 1968
            Studebaker enthusiast much longer

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            • #21
              From my previous post

              Incase you are looking for a drum puller for the tappered axle. Auto Zone carries it under RENTAL TOOL number 27037 "FWD Hub Puller". It is the same as the RWD puller. The price is $25.00 and is listed as thier standard supply for Rental tools. It is for a 3.75" and 4.25" Bolt pattern I believe. The box it came is says 3.75-4.25, so it's an assumption.
              http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip,.../selectZip.htm

              Yes I bought it. Yes I used it. My drivers side hub popped off with out issues. The passanger side hub was Very, Very rusty. I installed the puller and applied force to the screw. Using a 5 pound sledge hammer gave the screw a couple wacks and it popped right off. Job Done.
              FYI, I looked at Checker and NAPA both looking for a "Rear Drum" puller but they did not carry them. I have not gone back to check if they list it as a FWD puller and maybe that is why they didn't even know they had it.

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              • #22
                I was able to borrow a puller form the auto parts store that was meant for pulling fornt axles on front wheel drive car. worked fine. looks just like the recommended puller but made of cast alumm so I was a bit careful with tq but got enough to pull the hubs/drums.

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                • #23
                  quote:Originally posted by tim87114

                  From my previous post

                  Incase you are looking for a drum puller for the tappered axle. Auto Zone carries it under RENTAL TOOL number 27037 "FWD Hub Puller". It is the same as the RWD puller. The price is $25.00 and is listed as thier standard supply for Rental tools. It is for a 3.75" and 4.25" Bolt pattern I believe. The box it came is says 3.75-4.25, so it's an assumption.
                  http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip,.../selectZip.htm

                  Yes I bought it. Yes I used it. My drivers side hub popped off with out issues. The passanger side hub was Very, Very rusty. I installed the puller and applied force to the screw. Using a 5 pound sledge hammer gave the screw a couple wacks and it popped right off. Job Done.
                  FYI, I looked at Checker and NAPA both looking for a "Rear Drum" puller but they did not carry them. I have not gone back to check if they list it as a FWD puller and maybe that is why they didn't even know they had it.
                  As I said before, you should be looking for a hub puller, not a drum puller.

                  Gary L.
                  Wappinger, NY

                  SDC member since 1968
                  Studebaker enthusiast much longer
                  Gary L.
                  Wappinger, NY

                  SDC member since 1968
                  Studebaker enthusiast much longer

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    quote:Originally posted by maxpower1954

                    Since every Studebaker service department used it, its odd to me I have never seen the factory tool hub puller or come across one. Picture is in the shop manual, basically you bolt it up after loosening the castle nut, then drive a big wedge piece into a slot in the puller at the axle end and it comes right off ( I've heard.) R1 Lark (Paul W.) I think told me years ago he has one...anyone else on here? Russ Farris R-1 Avanti R-2 GT Hawk
                    Russ,

                    Like this one?


                    Paul
                    Winston-Salem, NC
                    Visit The NEW Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com
                    Paul
                    Winston-Salem, NC
                    Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      That's it, Paul - does it work well? (it looks like new.) Russ Farris
                      1963 GT Hawk R-2 4-speed
                      1964 Avanti R-1 Auto

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Works great. In fact, I sold my old "3-legged" style puller because I never used it anymore.

                        Paul
                        Winston-Salem, NC
                        Visit The NEW Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com
                        Paul
                        Winston-Salem, NC
                        Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Okay...update. Thanks for the picture by the way, now I know what to look for!

                          So, I went to my friends this last weekend to get the puller...I get there and he hands me a STEERING WHEEL puller!! (we need a 'rolling eyes' smiley...don't have time to look for one) I smiled and said "your kidding, right?" I had never seen a hub puller before, but I have seen and used a steering wheel puller and knew that wasn't the right thing. He said "no...I am sure that if you mess around with it enough, you might get it off" I just said no thanks and went to look for other options.

                          Was too busy to work on the Lark this weekend...or at all this week. in fact, I have been so busy that this is the first time I have been on the forum for about three days...and it was about three days before that...and I am leaving for vacation on friday and will not have access to a computer for over a week...so this may be my last post for a while...but back to the update.

                          I get a call yesterday from a different friend who I knew was having car trouble about a month or two ago. I had told him that if he needed to borrow one of my cars for daily transportation while his car was in the shop, just ask. Well,when I offered him this, I had all four of my cars in running order. Mercury, S-10, Lark and 66 Bel Air. Since that time the Bel Air has developed a fuel line leak, and I ran over a nail and blew out one of the tires...I parked it about three weeks ago and was waiting for after vacation to fix it up. I also had torn into the Lark for the brakes and some other maintenence stuff that I have been meaning to get around to. Anyway, back to my friend calling me, he needed one of my cars. So...I let him have my S-10 last night (he only has one car, and needed to get to work).

                          "no problem" you say, "you still have the mercury."

                          Unfortunately, the merc us my wifes car and she needs it daily. So what was my option? Put the Lark back together that night to get to work today. It was a good thing I didn't get my drums off and send my pads away to S.I. to get the replacements, or I would have been up a crick without a tire or a fuel line in the chevy (the tire shops were closed by the time he called me.) And intalling a new fuel line wasn't sounding like a fun thing to do last night. I figured the best thing was to put the car together that I had all the parts for, even if a little worn...just for a few more days.

                          So, if you don't hear from me for a while, I am on vacation and will talk at you all later!




                          1963 Lark, 259 V8, two-tone paint, Twin Traction. Driven often, always noticed!

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                          • #28
                            Just a point of interest, I had my rear axle changed a month ago. The mechanic, well known to all here, used the wedge type puller. both hubs came off OK. However, we had to use the thread restorer because both axle threads were peened over from using the wedge. A screw puller would have avoided this problem.

                            [img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
                            Tom Bredehoft
                            '53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
                            '55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
                            (Under Construction 617 hrs.)
                            '05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
                            All Indiana built cars

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                            • #29
                              The factory one looks cool. But check this one out:
                              http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hydra...4506.m20.l1116

                              ========================
                              63 Avanti R2, 4-Speed, 3.73 TT
                              Martinez, CA

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                              • #30
                                Almost a certainty that it's made in China. Might even be very well-made. But if any of the parts break, chances are you are out of luck. IMHO, for a tool that would be a total loss if it breaks, the asking price is too high.

                                "Disposable" tools are only a bargain if they are real cheap.

                                Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
                                Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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