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  • #16
    quote:

    I switched the disk brake crossover tubes so they match the shop manual pic. Makes more sense that way. What, if anything, plugs the remaining hole on the bottom inner caliper? Right now both calipers have one open hole.
    A short metal brake line. Shop manual shows it on page 3, figure 1.

    Bob Langer
    Glenshaw,PA



    Bob Langer
    Glenshaw,PA

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    • #17
      I didn't see the brake hoses themselves. If you have an open hole and no hose from frame to caliper that's what's missing.


      On its way to a 15.097 Island Dragway Great Meadows NJ Spring 2006.

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      • #18
        Looks like you missing the custom bent steel line to the hose, the bracket that holds it and the hose.

        JDP/Maryland
        JDP Maryland

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        • #19
          As any karate chop artist will tell you, just slightly fracture a cinder block and they crumble.

          The problem with cinder blocks is that they don't generally fail...until the first time (maybe your last time!)

          Be safe, you've invested too much time and money not to do it right.

          Thomas

          Long time hot rodder
          Packrat junk collector
          '63 Avanti R2 4 speed

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          • #20
            Pretty sure I have the bent steel brake hoses in the plastic box marked "brakes." I'll dig around this week and come up with them.

            Thanks for all the safety encouragement about the cinder blocks. This is the first I'd heard of it being a problem (I see cars on blocks all the time) so now I know.

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            • #21
              quote:Originally posted by tluz

              For what it's worth, i have no need to crawl under the frame at the moment.
              I hear you on that one, I sometimes skip jack stands when I know I'm
              not going under the car, and take a chance. Usually with the car on
              a floor jack, the worst that will happen if it fails is the car will
              get stuck sitting on a bottomed out floor jack. If a jack stand is
              used instead, then the car gets stuck on a jack stand. The result is
              the same .. I have to use another car to go buy a new floor jack.

              Thanks for the pics, they are the best sales items Don could buy. I'm
              going with the larger pipes, and yes, Headers are a must.

              Tom
              '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
              Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
              http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
              I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

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              • #22
                WOW WOW WOW, I"m ready to trade. I'll even throw in my wheels and tires. That looks great, good job. Even if you didn't plan to be
                under the car wood blocks would be better, more stable and less
                likely to scratch the paint. Do you have an estimate for when
                you'll be on the road?

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                • #23
                  quote:Originally posted by jallen

                  Do you have an estimate for when
                  you'll be on the road?
                  Late 2010 is a good guess. This car needs complete restoration and it took me almost 8 months to do what you see. Once I get the brake lines and fuel lines in, and make sure everything is properly torqued, and have someone who knows what he's doing come by and double-check my work, then I'll tear into the engine. The odometer reads 20,000, which means (judging from the car's condition) it went around at least once. If I'm lucky, I'll be able to keep some of the engine parts, and at minimum I'll have to do a complete cleaning and inspection of all parts. That job should take a couple of months.

                  After that, the tranny, the body, the soundproofing, the electrical, the interior, the rubber... Maybe 2011 is a better guess.

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                  • #24
                    quote:Originally posted by tluz

                    quote:Originally posted by jallen

                    Do you have an estimate for when
                    you'll be on the road?
                    Late 2010 is a good guess. This car needs complete restoration and it took me almost 8 months to do what you see. Once I get the brake lines and fuel lines in, and make sure everything is properly torqued, and have someone who knows what he's doing come by and double-check my work, then I'll tear into the engine. The odometer reads 20,000, which means (judging from the car's condition) it went around at least once. If I'm lucky, I'll be able to keep some of the engine parts, and at minimum I'll have to do a complete cleaning and inspection of all parts. That job should take a couple of months.

                    After that, the tranny, the body, the soundproofing, the electrical, the interior, the rubber... Maybe 2011 is a better guess.

                    Hint, do not forget to install the radiator support before you drop the body on.

                    JDP/Maryland
                    JDP Maryland

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                    • #25
                      Good Luck on your project, I think most members would say you've
                      already made a lot of progress. Don't ask how I know but I would
                      start looking for a good machine shop if you don't already have one.
                      They will be able to find lots of problems you would probably never
                      see, and they will be able to save you time, money, and aggravation.

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                      • #26
                        Good tip on the machine shop. I have one because I had to have the king pin bushings reamed. He claims to have worked on Studes and, for what it's worth, was able to tell me without prompting that the Avanti came with a 289.

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