Rear Drum Removal

[55Studebaker]

I'm trying to remove my rear drums on my '60 Lark to replace the emergency brake cable and the wheel cylinders. I used a hub puller and reinstalled the nut like your supposed to. But when trying to turn the screw to pull the hub the other wheel turns even with the tire on and the tire touching the ground. The hub doesn't seem to have pulled the hub the least bit. Any suggestions??

John Reich
Long Island Chapter Spotlight Editor & Webmaster

[klifton1]

Is the key to far up on the ramp in the axel to let the hub seat on the taper?
Klif

55 Speedster
42 Champ Coupe

[Transtar60]

Thats why you use a BFH. Is it in gear or in park??

3E38
4E2
4E28
5E13
7E7
8E7
8E12
8E28
4E2
59 Lark
etc

[N8N]

I prefer not to have it in park; I'll set the E-brake if it is working but if not just use my left hand to keep the wheel from turning. It takes a little longer that way but at least I don't feel like I'm going to screw anything up.

Hit the end of the screw every 3-4 hits, that helps break it free sometimes.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight

http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

[55s]

Hope this helps.
(1) The right puller is important. It should have at least three feet that attach to the wheel studs with the wheel stud nits. (after the rim with tire is removed.)
(2) The centre bolt is a really havy duty bolt that can damage the end of the axle shaft. You loosen off the hub nut until it protects the end threads, but there is a gap between the nut and hub. (Washer off too)
(3) as part of the puller, there is usually a two-sided wrench, that you install on the centre bolt and slam the "wrench" with a hammer that will break free the hub. Usually nothing happens for a few hits, then bang! the hub comes out to the nut.

Good Luck

Paul R 55s

[DEEPNHOCK]

That's why you put the nut on backwards halfway (flush with the end of the axle).
So when it 'pops', the thing won't fly off, and the nut will prevent the axle end from mushrooming.
Jeff[8D]

quote:Originally posted by hotwheels63r2

I had a very stubborn one take me a few hours to remove. When it came off I was turning away to grab a tool, and POW! all 30 something pounds flew off like a cannon. (be carefull not to be in front of it, and be sure the brakes are adjusted 'loose' )

[Sonny]

quote:Originally posted by N8N

I prefer not to have it in park; I'll set the E-brake if it is working but if not just use my left hand to keep the wheel from turning. It takes a little longer that way but at least I don't feel like I'm going to screw anything up.

Hit the end of the screw every 3-4 hits, that helps break it free sometimes.

nate

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55 Commander Starlight

http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

Hey Nate!

Not tryin' to tell ya how to do it, but if you set the parking brake, you'll wear out a LOT of pullers before you'll get the drum off. [:0] Honest, I didn't do it, but I saw my Dad do that very thing on the left side of my Granddad's Lark! Grandpa got home and found my Dad with every heavy tool and long piece of pipe he owned, laying at my Dad's feet, drum STILL on the car. Grandpa never said a word, calmly opened the Lark door, released the parking brake, then went in the house..... TOOOOO funny!

Sonny
http://RacingStudebakers.com

[N8N]

Sonny, I agree, you will have to release the brake before the drum comes off, but with the brake set you can still break the hub off the taper and you won't be putting any shock loads on the R&P, u-joints etc. then when you hear that happy "snap" you can release the brake and remove the drum.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight

http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel