Announcement

Collapse

Get more Tips, Specs and Technical Data!

Did you know... this Forum is a service of the Studebaker Drivers Club? For more technical tips, specifications, history and tech data, visit the Tech Tips page at the SDC Homepage: www.studebakerdriversclub.com/tips.asp
See more
See less

hot 2 both sides of coil and then cold...fix ???

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • hot 2 both sides of coil and then cold...fix ???

    I have ignition to both posts on the coil but no fire at the plugs. I have cleaned and gapped everything but they are all old. What are some trouble shooting tests that I can do ?? How do you test a coil ??.........Brad

  • #2
    Brad, if you've got voltage to both side of the coil, that's a fair indication the coil's OK - in essence, the winding is good because you can read the 12 volts THRU it.

    With the cap off, points closed, ignition turned on - can you manually work the points and get a spark out of the coil? A spark at the points themselves as you work them open and closed??
    If not, check that the point mount plate is grounded. There's a super-flexible wire on the underside of the plate that can fatigue and break after many years. If it does, you'll have inadequate-to-NO ground for the points.
    If not, ALSO check the worth of the lead FROM the points to the coil. It can look good but be broken internally OR have a corroded connection where it hooks to the points. Is this an early V8?

    Miscreant adrift in
    the BerStuda Triangle


    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe

    No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

    Comment


    • #3
      1952 232 6 volt.........Brad

      Comment


      • #4
        Brad,
        Those early Delco rotors were bad to fail when that piece of giant pencil lead becomes loose and burns. It's just like unpluggin' the coil wire...no spark[}]...BTDT, got stranded, now always carry a spare rotor. Also check the spring loaded contact in the center of the inside of the distributor cap...they have been known to fall out![:0] Hope this helps.

        Dan Miller
        Atlanta, GA

        [img=left]http://static.flickr.com/57/228744729_7aff5f0118_m.jpg[/img=left]
        Road Racers turn left AND right.

        Comment


        • #5
          I now have ignition at the points, but not at the contacts. Shouldn't there be a spark at the contacts when they open and close ??. What's the problem here ??.....Brad....... I need to do Mr. Biggs' tips also.

          Comment


          • #6
            Yes, the points should spark when you make or break them. Again, maybe the ground wire under the point plate. Parts Book Illustration No. 0601-21 - Part# 531791 $7.50 from SASCO.

            Miscreant adrift in
            the BerStuda Triangle


            1957 Transtar 1/2ton
            1960 Larkvertible V8
            1958 Provincial wagon
            1953 Commander coupe

            No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

            Comment


            • #7
              Just recently I ordered and received a repro chassis parts and shop manual. That sure makes life easier for looking at parts....Brad

              Comment


              • #8
                A failed condenser can cause problems, it's that little cylindrical shaped object with a wire coming out the end. To check the coil independently of the points and condenser, disconnect the coil wire that goes to the points and replace it at the coil with a short piece of wire with the end bared. Turn the ignition on, hold the end of the wire that usually goes into the distributor cap a fraction of an inch from the block and quickly touch the block with the bared end of the distributor wire. You should get a spark from the coil wire, if not keep bringing it closer to the block as you continue to touch the little wire. Sooner or later you should get a spark if the coil's good. Actually you should be able to get a bright blue spark 1/4 inch long with no problem. If you get a puny little yellow spark 1/16-1/8 inch long, better invest in a new coil.

                When you touch the little wire to the block, you're doing the exact same thing the points do, only taking them out of the equation. If you get a good spark, then it's time to focus on the points and condenser or distributor.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks for all of the trouble shooting tips. The 232 fired up today with a new set of points. The old ones looked good, but the car has been stored in and out for 37 years. Fresh oil and gas, it runs like a top. The fuel tank had a half quart of "molasses" aka: "varnish" in it. I outbid "scrappers" who were going to crush the Commander. I hope the steel scrap yards are offering these cars to people locally around the country for a larger profit rather than crushing them....Brad

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    It would be nice to think that that was the case, Brad, but for the most part it isn't. Between a junkyard owner's notion that NO ONE has ever dropped by looking for Stude parts AND the fact that it's trouble to deal with cars that don't have paperwork or tags or what have you, they'd just as soon smush them as worry about finding them a home.[V]

                    Miscreant adrift in
                    the BerStuda Triangle


                    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                    1960 Larkvertible V8
                    1958 Provincial wagon
                    1953 Commander coupe

                    No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Some years ago, I bought a whole carton of GM tune-up kits for the window type distributors. They were genuine Delco and had points, rotor & condensor in each kit. 5 bucks for 10 kits![]
                      I used a kit to "tune up" a Stude I had and the damned thing wouldn't start thereafter. Of course, initially I was befuddled because - well hey - brand new parts doncha know! After some cussing and fuming I came to realize that the points just weren't conducting juice!
                      Hah! No problem! I'll just break out another kit. Same thing! Points wouldn't pass current! Then I start going thru all these danged kits. NONE of them had points that worked! No wonder I'd gotten such a good deal on them![8] And I'd found them at a swap meet, so returning them wasn't an option.
                      These were foil sealed kits of GM make and at least 20-some years old when I got them in the mid-90s.
                      Of course, that's not the first time I'd gotten NEW bad parts. Yet such an experience will catch you off guard when you don't expect it.[}]

                      Miscreant adrift in
                      the BerStuda Triangle


                      1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                      1960 Larkvertible V8
                      1958 Provincial wagon
                      1953 Commander coupe

                      No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X