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AFT for 62 Lark six

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  • Jeff T.
    replied
    Luck for me that I would crank the engine over manually after a squirt of oil in the cylinders every so often, needless to say the engine is not stuck

    It does run but obviously needs a tune up, If someone at Cedar Rapids is selling Pertronix modules I ought to buy one, then solve the crappy carb problem that has been plaguing the Lark for the last two decades.

    It also needs brake work, perhaps I can talk myself into finally buying the Turner brake package. My excuse is that my wife "insists" that the Lark has good brakes

    With all the small things I need to do around the house before I can get my Lark home, it may be September before it reaches the top of the to do list and I might just call AAA to tow it for me. At least I can flush the tranny in the meantime

    Jeff T.

    "I'm getting nowhere as fast as I can"
    The Replacements.

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  • rockne10
    replied
    DON'T MOVE IT UNDER IT'S OWN POWER IF IT WON'T STOP!
    Try some panic braking before you hit a public road.
    I would rather have a car that won't run than a car that won't stop!

    For whatever reason it must be moved, have you considered a tow dolly, or even a flat tow?

    Brad Johnson
    Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
    '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight

    Leave a comment:


  • okc63avanti
    replied
    Maybe he meant WD-40.....

    <div align="left">John</div id="left">

    <div align="left">'63 Avanti, R1, Auto, AC, PW (unrestored)</div id="left">

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  • StudeRich
    replied
    Quote: "put some 10W40 mixed 1/2 and 1/2 with engine oil" end quote.

    Bob, I think you may mean to soak the cylinders a day or two with Marvel Mystery Oil, Kerosene or some other light penetrating oil 50/50 with the 10/30 Engine Oil sprayed in with a pump oil can with a hose to get it on the top inboard side of the piston.

    If the oil and filter is changed before running with light oil: 10/30 and you put a reversible electric drill with a long shaft into the Dist. opening to turn the oil pump until the top of the heads have oil, that should be plenty good enough, if the rings are not rusted solid to the bore.

    StudeRich

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  • rkapteyn
    replied
    A good thing to do is to prelube the engine
    Change the oil and take all the spark plugs out and put some 10W40 mixed 1/2 and 1/2 with engine oil in each hole.
    Leave the plugs out and crank the engine over.
    Put some towels in there because oil will spray out.
    In addition ,but not always done is to remove the 1/8" N.P.T. pipe plug on the drivers side front of the cylinder and put a grease fitting in there and
    use a greasegun full of oil to put oil in the oil galleys or a more involved method is to remove the distributor and turn the oil pump with a large long scewdriver until oil comes from the galley hole in the cylinder head.
    Some studebaker experts say that this is overkill but if the engine has not run for anything over 3 month ,piston rings can break.
    I would like to see comments from the group.
    Bob

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  • 41 Frank
    replied
    Dexron III replaces Dexron II Jeff

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  • Jeff T.
    started a topic AFT for 62 Lark six

    AFT for 62 Lark six

    I will be moving my 62 hardtop under its own power off my parents acreage for the first time in over ten years sometime after the upcoming holiday. During its extended stay in the barn, the automatic self drained itself. When the Lark was mobile I used dextron II in it, is dextron II still around and if not what has replaced it.

    Thanks,

    Jeff T.

    "I'm getting nowhere as fast as I can"
    The Replacements.
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