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    Hi, I'm selling my 1960 Lark with 259 V8 and a potential buyer wants to know how much it would cost approx. to rebuild the engine should it need to be done in the future. I'd appreciate hearing from anyone who has an idea. Thanks. Kate

  • #2
    Sorry, but your question is kind of like asking how much to paint my house!!?? Depends on how far you want to go. I saw a "short block" (engine block, pistons and crank) for $1800.00. Parts for a major rebuild could run about $1200 to $1400, plus labor which could add another $1000.00 more or less. Hope this at least kind of helps answer the question (or at least gets it in the ballpark).

    Good Luck

    Laisez le bon temps roulez avec un Studebaker
    Laisez le bon temps roulez avec un Studebaker


    • #3
      The last complete rebuild we did on a solid core engine went out the door as a long block for $1995. This includes cleaning all the infamous Studebaker block gunk, precision bore and hone, new pistons, rings, turn crank, new bearings, regrind cam and lifters, new cam bearings, new valves and guides, new soft plugs and gaskets, painted your choice of colors.

      thnx, jv.



      • #4
        If your Lark is running good, I'd look the buyer in the eye and tell him he probably will never have to rebuild it unless he's gonna start puttin' thousands of hard miles on it every month.
        With proper servicing (read that regular oil changes), it should just go an go an go.[^]

        Then there's the problem of a total rebuild vs. what's really needed. There's this prevalent mindset that says we have to treat these Stude V8s as tho they were a Chebby engine. I'm sorry, it's a fact of life that's reinforced every time one talks to an "Engine Rebuilder" about the prospect of having their Stude V8 refreshed. Once the rebuilder recovers from the shock of having a Studebaker cross his path, he's immeadiatly gonna tally up each and every concievable part that could wear out in an engine. Of course, this probably wouldn't be the case with a genuine, Studebaker-experienced rebuilder but such guys are few and far between.
        Further, the shops are in business to make moola. More rework - more moola. Replace everything - cover one's butt, warranty-wise.
        You know - if you only need a cam gear, you don't just summarily overhaul the whole darned engine.[}]
        I guess I'd throw out the highest figures given here and at the same time, I'd also say that when an engine quits for one reason or another, it doesn't mean it needs every moving part replaced. That's just plain silly.[)]

        Miscreant at large.

        1957 Transtar 1/2ton
        1960 Larkvertible V8
        1958 Provincial wagon
        1953 Commander coupe
        1957 President 2-dr
        1955 President State
        1951 Champion Biz cpe
        1963 Daytona project FS
        No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.


        • #5
          Greetings, All,

          FWIW, I've spent many years patching up Studebaker V8s and keeping them running on spit and bailing wire. My 1955 224" V8, which I have owned for 25 years, is original in all respects. It never had the heads or pan off it in 51 years. The valve stem seals are long gone, so I just kick it out of gear and use the brakes every time I let up on the gas. This way, it uses no oil. Letting it coast down on closed throttle will suck a quart of oil by the valve guides in 100 miles of mixed driving. By old-time Stude standards, this is normal way to look at operating a vehicle - it ain't completely broke, so keep driving it.

          Replacing the valve stem seals would reduce the oil consumption problem, but after 50 years of high rpms in a 3/4t truck, most of the wear parts are worn. Oil pressure drops off when it gets hot. Harder to start when it is hot and so on.

          Each owner has to decide when it is time to stop patching and go for all new wear parts. Look at the cost, look at the resale value, look at the intangibles of driving a good running, reliable vehicle.

          Having driven this one and every thing in between for many years, I have come to the conclusion, a clean, complete, professional rebuild is a much more pleasant, long-lasting, better-performing and more reliable way to go. If the owner can't afford it, then subtract all the above and still get enjoyment out of Stude ownership. And watch for him along side the road on as we drive to Omaha. Helping other Stude owners who rode a few miles too far on the Studebaker reputation for reliability is the Golden Rule.

          thnx, jv.



          • #6
            So PackardV8 you recommend a complete rebuild if the engine needs valve stem seals??


            • #7
              After a lot of worries about a possible rod knocking, my 59 P/U is running better than it has in years with just a new timing gear... Those Stude 6 cylinders are tough. [^]