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Diaphragm clutch?

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  • Hippie
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by Warren Webb

    I'm with Karl on this. Years ago I bought a clutch assembly from NAPA in Torrance for my 66. Didnt notice the throw-out bearing was from China. Blew apart in a couple of months. Doubting the intergrity of the rest of the assembly, I replaced it all with a Centerforce unit. Not only is the clutch easier & smoother, but it grabs like there is no tomorrow when needed! There is a time & place for everything, including when & when not to be a CASO.
    Well although it's not a factory Studebaker clutch it IS Genuine GM made in the good ol' US of A. If you do your homework on cross referencing parts, know EXACTLY what you are looking for and are willing to patrol the "backwaters" of Ebay there are deals to be found on quality parts.

    Analog man in a digital world.

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  • Warren Webb
    replied
    I'm with Karl on this. Years ago I bought a clutch assembly from NAPA in Torrance for my 66. Didnt notice the throw-out bearing was from China. Blew apart in a couple of months. Doubting the intergrity of the rest of the assembly, I replaced it all with a Centerforce unit. Not only is the clutch easier & smoother, but it grabs like there is no tomorrow when needed! There is a time & place for everything, including when & when not to be a CASO.

    60 Lark convertible
    61 Champ
    62 Daytona convertible
    63 G.T. R-2,4 speed
    63 Avanti (2)
    66 Daytona Sport Sedan

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  • Hippie
    replied
    Well I found a heck of a buy right after I posted this on a new 10" B & B pressure plate and disc so I guess I'll just double up on the Glucosimin the nights before I drive it and Arthiritis Strength Tylenol the nights after. Sacrifices must be made when you're a CASO!

    Analog man in a digital world.

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  • Karl
    replied
    Grind off the bump put a Center/Force unit in it and forget it. Have a dual friction unit in both my R3 and the Twin. Ten years no problems.

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  • gibbsr1
    replied
    The issue with B&B clutches are they get harder to press the pedal down the closer it gets to the floor. Correct me if I'm wrong but they do not go past the center point when released like a dia will. I believe this is why the dia. clutch is almost effortless at the floor (disengaged position).

    I would not go to hydraulic, seems it would be tons of effort for not much reward.

    Dan Giblin
    Cincinnati, OH

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  • jackb
    replied
    If you can find a good clutch house they will know the specs of the springs in the pressure plate. Ask them for a softer spring set. Probably won't be any good in trailering or fast getaways, but may help the knee.........

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  • PackardV8
    replied
    Respectfully disagree. If the OEM Stude engine is being retained, the Stude mechanical clutch activating system is the strongest, best-engineered part of the car. The problem being discussed is not in the actuation system, but the change to diaphragm clutch cover hitting the inside of the bell housing. Not sure how the extra complication of hydraulics or cable would alleviate that.

    thnx, jack vines

    PackardV8

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  • hotrodstude
    replied
    how about adapeting a cable or hyd. clutch system everybody uses them to day so paarts would be no problem just making a bracket or two. or go to the junk yard and see if they have any cars or trucks with brackets attached and go from there. nothing is impossible just get an bigger hammer.

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  • gibbsr1
    replied
    All I use are diaphragm clutches. I grind off the bumps inside, never had a problem. I use mustang clutches because I use ford transmissions, but i don't see why a chevy would be any different.

    Dan Giblin
    Cincinnati, OH

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  • DieselJim
    replied
    The diaghragm clutch will fit the truck bellhousing. Tryed to use one in a car. Ground on the housing until there was a hole in it. Couldn't make it work Jim

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  • Hippie
    replied
    Thanks Nate, I can handle the Borg & Beck but I thought if there was an easy way to run the diaphragm I would, every little thing I can do to lessen the load on what's left of the cartilidge in there helps.

    Analog man in a digital world.

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  • N8N
    replied
    I've heard yes, but you have to clearance the heck out of the bellhousing. I tried to make it work on my '55 but even after aggressive clearancing it still hit. I'd wait for a response from someone who's actually got it to work... (I probably just didn't have the exact right one; I'd try to use the exact same part as someone who's successfully done the conversion.)

    Alternately, check with Fairborn, I know they have nice aftermarket "blowproof" bellhousings, those should work fine with no mods, but I'm not sure if they work with the stock clutch linkage - may only work with Chevy style.

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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  • Hippie
    started a topic Diaphragm clutch?

    Diaphragm clutch?

    Is it possible to run a GM diaghragm clutch in a Stude? Got a bum left knee and the diaphragm clutches are a tad easier on it.

    Analog man in a digital world.
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