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Restoring a 1963 R2 Avanti

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  • #91
    quote:Originally posted by rickburgen

    So what should I check?

    It's a step by step process. The first thing I do, is clean and adjust the points, then check for spark at the big wire coming from the center of the coil. Remove the wire from the center of the distributor and put that end close to grounded metal, and crank the engine and look for spark.

    JDP/Maryland
    JDP Maryland

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    • #92
      Can I use my multimeter?

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      • #93
        quote:Originally posted by rickburgen

        Can I use my multimeter?
        Not for checking spark. Just disconnect the center wire from the distributor cap and hold it about 1/2 inch from something metal on the engine while an assistant cranks the engine. You should get a spark to jump at least that far. It sounds like you are referencing a dwell meter (the tool with the 4 6 8 scale). That's used after you get the engine running. Your plug wires should have (someone correct me if I'm off here) about 1000 Ohms per foot of resistance. Plug wires or spark plugs won't cause your engine to not start. They will cause it to run poorly if they are bad, though. That said, I am going to guess that your problem is fuel related. If you have spark, I'd be looking very hard at the fuel system (carburetor, fuel pump, fuel tank, etc.) It isn't uncommon for a vehicle to have a gummed up carburetor and other fuel related issues after sitting idle for a few years. LH
        Whirling dervish of misinformation.

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        • #94
          I tried this method...but now the fan isn't even moving anymore, I know the battery is working because the center console light works. I got a new multimeter, although it does not have the special auto settings.

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          • #95
            Can I do the same thing with out the dwell setting?

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            • #96
              quote:Originally posted by rickburgen

              I tried this method...but now the fan isn't even moving anymore, I know the battery is working because the center console light works. I got a new multimeter, although it does not have the special auto settings.
              Sounds like you need a battery charger. And yes, the battery will still have enough oomph to light the interior up after it is too run down to crank the engine. LH
              Whirling dervish of misinformation.

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              • #97
                It takes a lot less power to turn the lights on than spin the car with enough speed and amps left over to power the ignition system I'll suggest again you buy a battery charger because repeated attempts at starting this car will wear down a new battery quickly. At least get a good set of jumper cables and hook up a running car while you are attempting to start.

                Cut the belt off the supercharger, a matched set is proper, because you don't know its condition and if it's extra stiff it's putting more stress on the starter and wearing the battery down prematurely. Take the bonnet off the carb completely and see if fuel is getting into the engine.

                Take JDP's advice and pull a wire while the engine is cranking, simple, effective and you won't cook your multimeter. If you are dying to use it hook it up to the battery and watch the voltage while you're cranking. If it drops below 12 you don't have enough battery power. Check your batter without a load and see if you have at least 13 volts if you don't you need to charge the battery or try to start the car with a jumper car.

                Your dwell meter will tell you very little on a slow crank. Take off the distributor cap and look at the points if they are opening and closing while the distributor turns it's probably good enough to start the car. There should be a spark as the points open and close if there isn't you need to start there. Use your multimeter to check for voltage at the + side of the coil and at the minus side as the engine is cranking. + side should have 12+ volts - side 6-8 volts.

                Change the spark plugs. I've had new sets of Champion plugs foul in minutes.

                If you have spark and new plugs dribble a little fuel directly into the carb and crank. You should get a reaction. If it pops or you get a flame your on the right track. Before you pour anymore fuel in the carb see if moving the carb linkage gets some fuel spraying out of the accel nozzles. If you do then crank and pump until it catches. If you don't have fuel in the carb dribble a little more. Keep a fire extinguisher close by.

                It's a step by step process that you have to follow.

                ErnieR


                On its way to a 15.097 Island Dragway Great Meadows NJ Spring 2006.

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                • #98
                  I believe the battery is charged considering I had it charging for a while. I did that carburetor trick, there was no fuel coming in. Bige, what do you mean if they are opening and closing, what? Considering that the battery is charge why wouldn't the fan turn.

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                  • #99
                    Avanti starting http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...TOPIC_ID=31087

                    Thomas

                    Long time hot rodder
                    Packrat junk collector
                    '63 Avanti R2 4 speed

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                    • You don't have to guess on the battery. Hook up your multimeter and take a voltage reading. You need that battery to show 13+ volts just sitting there and at least 12 volts when it's cranking.

                      Cut the belt off the blower it may be seized. When it goes back together you need a matched set of belts so it's no good to you anyway.

                      Let's assume the battery has enough juice. Do you hear a click when you hit the key? If not the starter relay may be bad. The battery cable ends may need to be cleaned and installed tighter, tha starter may be bad, the alternator may have seized, I could go on.

                      The carb won't fill with fuel unless the engine has turned quite a few times because the fuel pump only pumps when the engine is turning. Once you verify spark then prime the carb with an ounce or two of gas.

                      I'm referring to the points when I say to check if they are opening and closing. You need to remove the metal shielding if it's installed on your car and pop the distributor cap off the distributor. If your car has the original distributor there are two sets of points that open as the distributor spins. Opening is about the width of a matchcover. There should be sparking visible as they open and close.

                      It doesn't take a lot of cranking to discharge a battery.

                      ErnieR


                      On its way to a 15.097 Island Dragway Great Meadows NJ Spring 2006.

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                      • ok..thanks I am going to wait till my uncle as time to help me cause this sounds foreign to me. But I am trying.

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                        • Rick, you mentioned having the manuals for the car. Assuming you have the Workshop Manual, start looking at it. You need to be at
                          least somewhat familiar with the various parts and components to
                          be able to have a constructive conversation with the people trying
                          to help you. And it would really be helpful if you could be a little more specific when you talk about what you are doing/have done. Take a break from cleaning and look at the chapter on Tune
                          Up, it will refer you to other sections, you will learn a LOT!

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                          • Is there any place where I can get a new bench for the back...Mine is all rusted..

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                            • "Bench"?? Bench seat frame?

                              60 Lark convertible
                              61 Champ
                              62 Daytona convertible
                              63 G.T. R-2,4 speed
                              63 Avanti (2)
                              66 Daytona Sport Sedan
                              59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
                              60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
                              61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
                              62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
                              62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
                              62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
                              63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
                              63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
                              64 Zip Van
                              66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
                              66 Cruiser V-8 auto

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                              • I need a new back seat "bench" because the one I have now is all rusted. And also the backrest while I am at it.

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