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64 Daytona blower motor removal

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  • 64 Daytona blower motor removal

    Do I have to remove the whole heater case to remove the blower motor?


    63 Lark 2dr Sedan
    64 Daytona 4dr Sedan

  • #2
    If I remember correctly, once you've got the glovebox and hoses out of the way, four nuts and some dum-dum is all that holds the assembly in place; easier to pull the whole thing. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
    "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

    Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
    Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
    sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"


    • #3
      Brad, I think you're right. Either way tho, it's gotta come down because the blower wheel's gonna keep the motor captive in the plenum until it's removed from the motor shaft.

      Miscreant adrift in
      the BerStuda Triangle

      1957 Transtar 1/2ton
      1960 Larkvertible V8
      1958 Provincial wagon
      1953 Commander coupe

      No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.


      • #4
        Just did this the other weekend on my '64 Cruiser.

        Lower blower housing has about 7 little sheet metal screws around its perimeter. One has the ground wire under it. It's the screws near the firewall, and out of sight, that are the tough ones to get to. The high and low speed wires have spade connectors about half way over toward the switch.

        The lower housing is what holds motor below, and fan cage above. Fan hub has allen screw. Once fan is off you can see the two motor mounting screws. Fan will be tight on shaft, so be careful not to abuse either fan or motor shaft when you pull off the fan.

        Also be careful with the adjacent heater/defroster box, as you remove that lower blower housing. The bottom and sides of that box are some sort of strong plastic, but the top is brittle (after 40+ years) black paperboard, which is molded roundish where the blower housing goes into it. If the rounded part of the cardboard is shot, you'd best go ahead and remove the box for repair. Note that the driver's side end of this box has a mounting screw that must be removed. Also unhook the defroster and airflow control cables. Once the box is out, you'll find that a one pound coffee can has the correct curve to provide the beginnings of your patch. 3/16 Poprivits will nicely replace the factory ones, and you can make the repair airtight by actually using duct tape for its originally intended purpose.

        With a new motor, and a more or less airtight mixer box, the improvement in heat/defrost is huge.



        • #5
          Thanks for the update. I was hoping it would be a simpler operation to remove the motor. Mine squeals when cold and I thought I might be able to apply a little 3N1 electric motor oil to quiet things down. If I have to remove the whole shooting match, I might as well wait until I have a new motor.

          63 Lark 2dr Sedan
          64 Daytona 4dr Sedan


          • #6

            If that is the issue, you can lube the lower motor bushing without removal. This is worth a try, it kept mine going for years!

            Use a sharp center punch and make a little dimple upwards, and dead center on the raised section at the center of the bottom of the motor housing. Next choose a small drill bit about the size of the wand that comes with WD 40, or other spray lubes. Actually, WD 40 is NOT the stuff to use. PB Blaster or such is better, something with staying power. Anyway, punch, carefully drill a hole, spray in the stuff, and seal hole with a smear of dum dum or something thick.

            See if it works, repeat as needed.

            Good luck.