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How to replace rear motor mount on Champion 6

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  • How to replace rear motor mount on Champion 6

    Hi All,

    Seeking someone that knows. I have to replace the rear motor mount on a 1954 CK Champion 6 cylinder engine. The car is up on four jack stands. The rear motor mount is in a partial metal retaining cage. I have removed the bolts for the cage and raised the rear of the engine up about 1-1/4 inch and that is as far as I can raise it.....before it binds and breaks something

    This is not high enough to get a socket on to the bolts that must be removed to take off the old motor mount.

    Do I have to remove the frame cross member? It looks like there are four bolts to remove. That seems the only way to get access......Help appreciated!

    Experienced comments sought. Thanks in advance.

    Henry Votel,
    Forest Lake, MN
    Moderator: Editors & Publishers Forum
    Henry Votel,
    Forest Lake, MN
    Buying & Selling Studebaker Parts in MN & WI

  • #2
    Hmmm,

    58 viewers all wanting to know.....The answer is: There is nothing in the Shop manual about how to do this. Here's how:

    1) Loosed/remove the two bolts holding the motor mount cage to the cross member,

    2) Loosen/remove the nuts from the 6 bolts holding the cross member to the frame rails. (I had to round off a closed end 12 point 9/16ths wrench on one side so you can fit the wrench on to the bolt head on the inside of the frame rails; then loosen and remove just the nut from the bolts),

    3) Support and raise the engine about 1 inch,

    4) Pull/push out the bolts in the frame rails and then the cross member should be loose enough to easily knock it forward so you can access the two bolts holding the rear motor mount; remove the motor mount.

    5) Install the new motor mount and old the metal cage,

    6) Punch/tap the cross member back into place and reinsert the bolts thru the frame rails. I reversed the bolts and put them in from the outside of the frame rail to get the cross member aligned in place. Once I had it aligned I put the bolts in as originally positioned. This was easier than trying to align the cross member from the inner frame rail position.

    7) After the side bolts were tightened I put the bolts into the metal cage and let them stick down thru the holes of the cross member. Lower the engine and it aligns nicely. Tighten the cross member bolts.

    8) Clean up, pick up, test drive....Grain Belt!


    Henry Votel,
    Forest Lake, MN
    Moderator: Editors & Publishers Forum
    Henry Votel,
    Forest Lake, MN
    Buying & Selling Studebaker Parts in MN & WI

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    • #3
      Ain't it great what we can do with determination and a few tools?

      [img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
      Tom Bredehoft
      '53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
      '55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
      (Under Construction 617 hrs.)
      '05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
      All Indiana built cars

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      • #4
        Henry
        That seems like such a straight-forward way to replace the motor mount I can't imagine that others haven't done it as well. I have considered replacing the rear motor mounts (plural) on my 1950 Champion by removing the cross-member as well. I haven't tried it because I figured I was missing something. It seems too simple.[:0] Its reassuring to learn that your car didn't split in two lengthwise when the cross-member was removed.[]

        1950 Champion 4 Dr.
        Holdrege NE
        John
        1950 Champion
        W-3 4 Dr. Sedan
        Holdrege NE

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