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Avanti power steering system rebuild Q & A

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  • Avanti power steering system rebuild Q & A

    EDIT : for picture locations and tread name change

    EDIT : Here it is July (month update)....

    See the new post at the end for the NEW questions - Tom

    Original post [] :
    [ Ok, its time to get the Avanti back on the road, the weather this week
    hasnt been nice for work in the driveway, and the Avanti is taken hold
    of the garage. The first thing on my list is to rebuild the pump. The
    shop manual lists "Lubriplate or its equivalent". What the heck is
    "Lubriplate"?? Can I just use powersteering fluid?

    What is acceptable to use to clean the pump? Carb cleaner? Simple
    Green? I dont want to ruin the new seals with residual cleaner.

    Tom
    ]

    '63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: 97 Z28 T-56 6-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires
    '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
    Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
    http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
    I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

  • #2
    The lubriplate is a thick white grease like lubricant that is used to keep the little pins from falling out and apart on assembly. I would use brake clean to clean everything up if you are afraid of carb cleaner.

    Comment


    • #3
      That white grease is what my dad refered to as "calf scours grease". For you non-farmers, scours is diarrhea and when a milk fed calf has scours, that's exactly what it looks like. That's probably more information than some of you folks wanted! Ha!

      Comment


      • #4
        I first used Lubriplate in the printing industry.
        Its still used on our newest press(1998) as well as the one from 1926

        Google is your friend.

        http://www.lubriplate.com/webstore/detail.aspx?ID=17

        3E38
        4E2
        4E28
        5E13
        7E7
        8E7
        8E12
        8E28
        4E2
        59 Lark
        etc

        Comment


        • #5
          My FLAPS still carries Lubriplate, and whichever you use, carb cleaner or brakleen, if you let the parts dry well before reassembly there will be no residue. (yeah, I know, it's tempting to rush it, but don't.)

          I ASSume that any thick assembly lube would be acceptable as well, if you have any on the shelf. As Alan says, I think it's only mentioned so that you can "stick" the parts together while you're reassembling. I didn't use any grease putting the pump together on my '55; I just was very careful to get everything in the right place, and it works fine. I reused my old seals too with the exception of making some new reservoir gaskets (the whole reason I had it apart) and it doesn't leak.

          nate

          --
          55 Commander Starlight
          http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
          --
          55 Commander Starlight
          http://members.cox.net/njnagel

          Comment


          • #6
            Well, I bought the rebuild kits, I just have been busy getting the 93
            Camaro back together after the hit-and-run. I want to get the Avanti
            back on the road by tomorrow night (dreamer), which means rebuild the
            pump, ram, valve assembly, and replace the hoses. Possible?

            Tom
            '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
            Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
            http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
            I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

            Comment


            • #7
              Your shopping list on your way home from work this evening:

              -flare nut wrenches
              -band aids
              -hydrogen peroxide
              -gauze
              -first aid tape
              -1 bottle profanity-b-gon(tm)

              (it's the valve/hoses that will cause wailing, gnashing of teeth, and blood loss)

              nate

              --
              55 Commander Starlight
              http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
              --
              55 Commander Starlight
              http://members.cox.net/njnagel

              Comment


              • #8
                Good idea on the list, I have plenty of profanity at the ready!! I do
                need to get some good flare wrenches. The ones I bought from Kragen
                are total crap. Craftsmen has always been my friend, why I thought I
                would save money on one of the MOST important wrenchs, I dont know![B)]

                Tom
                '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                Comment


                • #9
                  Tom,
                  I can't remember if the shop manual states to remove the starter, but it will be very helpful. Provides much needed working room. Yes the hoses are tough. Take your time, do one at a time for less confusion in routing and check for interference while operating full lock to full lock. A note to help on pump reassemblly... you'll notice the shaft has a SHARP step on the pulley end..after you install the new seal in the front housing, install the shaft from the FRONT side, butt end first. Then install the pulley, temporarily, with bolt and washer. Mount vertical in a bench vice, clamping on the bolt head. Continue with reassembly. This serves two purposes, keeps the front seal from being cut while pushing the sharp edge of the step on the shaft through it snd if you don't install the pulley, the shaft will slip back through the seal. BTDT several times until I discovered this method. Also, be careful not to loose the TINY pin that registers the outer race in the housing. I have mistakenly dropped it and it is a bear to find,[:0] lights, magnet, cuss words.[:0] Everything else is straight forward. We're here to help if you need us. OBTW use Dexron ATF, NOT "power steering" fluid.

                  Dan Miller
                  Atlanta, GA

                  [img=left]http://static.flickr.com/57/228744729_7aff5f0118_m.jpg[/img=left]
                  Road Racers turn left AND right.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks Dan ... I sware this must be the hardest part about working on
                    a later Stude - the replies make me feel like I am being shipped off
                    to Iraq to help with the Red Cross!!

                    Looks like this is being bumped to back burner again (grrr), I might
                    get back to it this weekend though. Wifes drives window wont roll up
                    and so I need to swap the window regulator .... AND I came down with
                    a cold! Happy New Year!

                    Tom
                    '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                    Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                    http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                    I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Dan, talking about the sharp edge and cutting the seal reminded me of what I've done in like situations. If reassembly allows it, I cut a piece of waxed paper, wrap it around the shaft and sharp shoulder several times, slip the seal over it and then remove the paper. Sure makes it easier on the nerves.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        John,
                        I agree. There are several ways to protect the seal from damage, but by doing it as I described, once you bolt the pulley on, the body of the pump can't come off that end of the shaft. I've seen instances where someone tried to replace the seal by just removing the pulley.
                        Attempting to drive the new seal into the housing while trying to keep from damaging the lip of the seal is near-bout' impossible.[:0],
                        especially if the pump is still on the car! It's better just to take the time to uodo the 3 mounting bolts and the 2 lines, take it to the work bench, set down with a 'cold one' and the shop manual and have at it Have a Happy New Year!

                        Dan Miller
                        Atlanta, GA


                        [img=left]http://static.flickr.com/57/228744729_7aff5f0118_m.jpg[/img=left]
                        Road Racers turn left AND right.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I will better understand when I get it apart .. I am not a stranger to
                          difficult seal replacement. If you guys are interested, check out the
                          tech article I did on the Impala site - its a "sticky" there.

                          http://www.impalaclub.com/naisso/for...TOPIC_ID=30984

                          Tom

                          PS: I dont understand why SDC doesnt use stickys, I would have thought
                          my fuel pump rebuild process would have become one! Here is what a
                          sticky looks like .. helpful for not losing valuble tech support. Its been
                          read 7159 times![:I]

                          http://www.impalaclub.com/naisso/for...asp?FORUM_ID=7
                          '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                          Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                          http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                          I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Well? Got it done yet?

                            quote:Originally posted by sbca96
                            HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                            Jeff


                            Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                            Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              No .. I've been sick.[V]

                              Tom
                              '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                              Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                              http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                              I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                              Comment

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