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OT ?? Busted off bolts in Al heads...

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  • DEEPNHOCK
    replied
    Jeff made it to Cedar Rapids!
    This car is really neat.
    Very nice, and very sanitary installation.
    Ya' done good Jeff!
    Nice chatting with you.
    Jeff[8D]






    http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

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  • junior
    replied
    I think I may have seen your car at Spokane a couple of years back...If it was your car, my compliments to you, this is a seriously trick engine swap. It looks so factory stock it hurts. I made that comment to my wife and she didn't get it, she said that it just looked like a factory engine, and my reply was 'thats the point'...she still didn't get it. Regardless, it's a job well done, I only wish I had the patience to get my engine compartment looking as good as yours.

    54 Champ C5 Hamilton car. Stock...no way! A Stude hotrod since 1960. In my family since 1958.

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  • Jeff_H
    replied
    Well Rich, I will admit to being a bit of a wimp [:I] if I have a choice....

    523 miles according to the maps. A full day drive. My usual limit in the '53 is about 250 miles or so. I think I'd trailer it this time even if it was a shorter jump just since I haven't driven it at all for some time and just got the engine back together. Don't want to risk unforseen problems.... I have no desire to apply for the hard luck trophy []

    Jeff in ND

    '53 Champion Hardtop

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  • StudeRich
    replied
    Sounds real good Jeff, right up until the part about loading it on a TRAILER to take a short little trip from ND to IOWA?

    StudeRich

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  • Jeff_H
    replied
    Yippee! It runs again.

    Got the last bits put together, filled the oil and coolant and fired it up. No gushers anywere

    I let it idle in the garage up to operating temps while looking for any leaks and let the oil and paint fumes burn off. Shut it down to let cool so I could recheck the coolant and re-installed the hood latch assy while I waited. The grill fit is better than it was, but not perfect (as if any stude is!). Got the gap between the hood and grill reduced so its not so excessive.

    I just got back from about a 8 mile shake-down trip and no issues. I've not run or driven the car since last October. Now, I got a lot of work to clean and detail stuff before loading it up on the trailer for leaving for Cedar Rapids Sunday morning.

    Jeff in ND

    '53 Champion Hardtop

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  • sweetolbob
    replied
    Jeff

    Nice looking installation.

    By the way, Take you machine shop a case of their favorite nerve tonic. Those are great prices.

    Bob

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  • Jeff_H
    replied
    Well,

    I have been working on this thing all weekend and will head out to the garage in a bit.

    Made some good progress on reassembly but not done yet. After the engine it back together I still need to finish putting the grill back together too. I had that apart to redo the panel fit and repaint some parts.

    This is where I was Thurday and again yesterday.





    The machine shop got one of the bolts out somehow w/o needing to use a helicoil but the others did. Cost me $12 per broken stud to get those fixed. $25 ea to plane the heads. I think the total bill with the gaskets was $250.

    One reason this has been taking so long is I am detailing things so that requires extra cleaning and painting. If this was my DD, I'd just clean the big chunks off the parts and put it back together []

    I need to have this all done by end of day this coming saturday so I can load up for CR.... I may need to request a extra vacation day friday. Fortunately, I have plenty of those and things are sort of slow at the office right now.

    Jeff in ND

    '53 Champion Hardtop

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  • Jeff_H
    replied
    Dropped the heads off at the machine shop along with the intake (couple of stripped out holes in that too ).

    For grins I attempted to extract one of the busted bolts once I had the head on the bench. Heated the bolt boss through the open water port next to it and worked it with grips and later even welded a nut onto it. Managed to break it off flush at that point. No suprise. When this goes back together these intake bolts are getting anti-sieze.

    Now need to figure out what is going on with the head bolts decision. I think there are both regular and TTY bolts available. I don't know anymore what I used on one of these same type engines 10yrs ago. I may still have the box of used bolts from then to find the P/N. My mission tonight is to hopefully find those.... Seems to me they were not TTY bolts but maybe they were and I used the wrong torque specs. Could be the reason I have had issues with that engine (see another old thread on stovehuggers about that!).

    Too confusing [}]. Cannot find any online info from the felpro or sealed power sites who make these bolts either. I've got the OEM shop manual but that may be for the OEM hardware only. I got a coworker who has "alldata" and he's going to check tonight.

    Jeff in ND

    '53 Champion Hardtop

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  • Ryan1253
    replied
    I would be careful with heat if there alumium heads i would drill them out to relive the pressure and use some "easy outs" to pull the rest of the bolts out.




    Ryan

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  • Tom Bredehoft
    replied
    Do...turn....after a certain age it no longer matters. Besides, I thought turn was specific to stuck screws.

    [img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
    Tom Bredehoft
    '53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
    '55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
    (Under Construction 617 hrs.)
    '05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
    All Indiana built cars

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  • buddymander
    replied
    And don't forget to replace that candle or you're gonna be SOL for any candlelit dinner for a long time to come...And Tom.. it's "do the trick"...not "turn the trick" ...I can't imagine what you were thinking...

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  • PackardV8
    replied
    Let's pile on Jeff!

    FWIW, while you've got the heads off, have them checked for cracks. My engine machinist says the Ford V6 are the worst for cracking. In fact, there is an offshore source making reproductions which are supposedly better than the OEM Ford heads.

    thnx, jack vines

    PackardV8

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  • Jeff_H
    replied
    Well,

    Got one head off w/o any blood or broken stuff. Just coolant on the garage floor as I should have drained the block I [}] liquids on the garage floor.... Next is the other one. It just HAD to bust off one intake bolt in each head of course. I'll take the opportunity to get the heads cleaned up and new valve seals after those !@#$% bolts stumps are out. Most likely helicoils will be needed. I remember now that 10yrs ago I rebuilt one of these and the used head I bought from the machine shop to replace a cracked one needed to be brought back for a helicoil in one of the intake bolt holes. These will get some anti-sieze I think on reassembly. I had to replace a timing cover once doing a water pump as the bolts galled into the alumimum cover and cracked the boss apart when I put the serious wrench on it. Galvanic action IMO.

    I am not sure if these use the TTY (torque to yield) head bolts or not. I used all new ones on the other engine per the ford shop manual but these don't really look like TTY bolts.

    If I was smart I'd swap in the rebuilt long block I have sitting under the bench I got at a auction 9 yrs ago for $150.... Hope its still OK. Time is short and so is my temper tho...

    Jeff in ND

    '53 Champion Hardtop

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  • Bredehoft
    replied
    I don't know what type of Ford v6 you have, but I know that some newer motors have one-time use head bolts - apparently, they stretch as you torque them to spec. That won't help you get them out, but may help you in other ways.

    --george

    1963 Lark Daytona HT - 63V J8 175
    53-54 C/Ks, 55 Speedsters, 63 Daytonas, Wagonaires Registries

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  • hotrodstude
    replied
    drill the stud out and then heli-coil the whole.

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