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Can I remount my front seat back 6 inches?

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  • Can I remount my front seat back 6 inches?

    The front seat on my '50 Champion seems to be too far forward. With it moved all the way back I'm still sitting way too close to the steering wheel. When I sit in the back seat with the seat all the way back there is at least 6" of space between my knees and the back of the front seat. (I'm 6 feet tall.) Is this the way it's supposed to be? The original owner of the car was a woman so is it possible that she had the front seat moved forward? How difficult would it be to unbolt the front seat and move it back a few inches? Has anyone here ever done that? It would be a lot more comfortable to cruise around in if I could stretch out my legs a little like I can in a newer car....



    1950 Champion 2 Dr. Sedan

    1949 Studebaker 2R5 half ton pickup...

  • #2
    I don't know about the '50s but at least on '53 and some newer, the seat tracks have several holes in them to move the mounting to the floor around. Those won't go 6" but probably at least 2". I have my '53 in the farthest back set of holes but its still too tight IMO for me and I am 6'-1". Some folks have welded extra metal onto the track mounts to move the seats back farther too.

    I'd check to see if there are more holes in the tracks and move the seat if you can first before anything else. This is the foot of the track where the bolts to the floor are.

    Jeff in ND

    '53 Champion Hardtop

    Jeff in ND

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    • #3
      Had it done by my interior guy on my '49 Champion sedan.
      My knee likes being straighter when I drive.
      Still plenty of room in the back.

      Chris Pile
      Midway Chapter SDC
      The Studebaker Special
      The only difference between death and taxes is that death does not grow worse every time Congress convenes. - Will Rogers

      Comment


      • #4
        quote: the seat tracks have several holes in them to move the mounting to the floor around.
        I went out and took a look and you're right! There are 3 holes and the bolts are in the rear hole. Tomorrow I'll move them up to the front hole and pick up another couple of inches of leg room. Another great Studebaker idea that was way ahead of its time. (I've never seen a "Big 3" car with adjustment holes like this-have any of you?) Thanks for the tip....



        1950 Champion 2 Dr. Sedan

        1949 Studebaker 2R5 half ton pickup...

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        • #5
          Stude also offered 'tilt' steering wheels before anyone had heard of the term. Of course it wasn't done with a spring loaded lever, but there is provision for some up-down movement on most Stude columns.


          HEY, you're not Wilbur!
          "Burning Bridges...Lost Forevermore"......

          Comment


          • #6
            My 50 commander has more than enough room for me and I'm 6'4" tall. I havent needed to move the seat but I'll be looking for adjustments in the track now thanks for asking this!

            Owner of a 1950 4 door Commander

            I'll Tattoo you anytime!

            you can find me at

            Lucky Linda's Body Art 952-445-3281
            18 years in the tattooing biz
            I have a 1950 4 door Commander a 51 land cruiser And a 52 Champion
            sigpic
            I'll Tattoo you anytime!
            And you can find me at....

            New Shop Name Same tattoo shop
            Crazy Lady Ink
            Shakopee Mn.
            952-445-3281
            27 years in the tattooing biz

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            • #7
              Hi All,

              I’ve got long legs so I do this on my Studebakers to get about 5"± of additional room. I’m sure it’s not the first time for this idea. This is just a display of how I get those extra inches.

              I use a piece of 1/4th by 1-1/2 inch mild steel cut at 18± inches each. I locate the holes in the floors and get that distance set. See arrows in picture. Then I locate two other points 3 inches back. I drill the holes to 1/4 inch after starting with a 1/8th drill bit and working up. Then I used a 5/16 X 1 machine head bolt as pictured. In order to fix the machine head bolt as it will be upside down once in place I just hammer or swege the bolt into the 1/4 inch hole. Wack it good and it will then stay in place and not turn. Now you put this piece, ‘bolts facing up’ on your floor and use your original bolts to fasten the bar to your floor. Then mount your seat frame onto the bolts that are now pointing up from the floor. You’ll have the factory 2-1/2"± plus 3 more inches and you can always adjust the seat forward if that is too much. Hey, Three more inches and no Viagra needed!










              Henry Votel,
              Forest Lake, MN
              Moderator: Editors & Publishers Forum
              Henry Votel,
              Forest Lake, MN
              Buying & Selling Studebaker Parts in MN & WI

              Comment


              • #8
                I am glad this topic was brought up. I have never been able to get any movement out of the slide rail of the seat in my 55 2dr. sedan. Even with the seat mounted in the front hole I am still quite close to the wheel at 6'3". Can some one tell me how much front to back slide there should be in a split bench seat? Does anyone have any pointers on how to free up the slide rails. All seems clean. They are not seized up with rust. I'm stumped. Thanks.

                1955 Champion Deluxe 2dr.
                1955 Champion Deluxe 2dr.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Hey Henry, did you make those metal strips? How much would you want for a couple of them? An extra 2" would be nice but 5" would be a lot better. I have some old Studebaker dealer brochures and could trade you one of them for the metal strips if you want, or I could mail you a check or pay via Paypal. Please let me know. Thanks............Dave



                  1950 Champion 2 Dr. Sedan

                  1949 Studebaker 2R5 half ton pickup...

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hi Dave,

                    The metal strips 1-1/2 or even 1-1/4 wide by 1/4 inch thick would be readily available piece of mild steel from any big box home store or most hardware stores. A 36" length let me have the two 18" strips when I cut it in half. After drilling I rounded one end and painted them silver. Machine bolts from the same sources.

                    I'm not sure the holes are the same in all models of Studes. Of course now I have my seat installed and don't have a way to get the holes right again without removing my seat.....

                    Thanks for the compliment about buying something from me though. All in all this is something relatively easy to do, so give it a shot.

                    Best regards,

                    Henry Votel,
                    Forest Lake, MN
                    Moderator: Editors & Publishers Forum
                    Henry Votel,
                    Forest Lake, MN
                    Buying & Selling Studebaker Parts in MN & WI

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Hi 55Sedan,

                      The only way to really fix your slide rails is to take off the seat cushions to reveal the locking mechanism and the wire rod that runs across to simultaneously release the lock on the passenger side of the rails.

                      Use a hammer to tap the rails free once you see that both locking mechanisms are open. Get them moving freely and lubricate with some light oil. About an inch nside the rails is a ball bearing that often is 'crusted' in place. You need to get them clean and fully lubricated. Use your air and blow them out clean. Once they move freely and are lubricated you should be set as long as your locking mechanisms are in working order.

                      Henry Votel,
                      Forest Lake, MN
                      Moderator: Editors & Publishers Forum
                      Henry Votel,
                      Forest Lake, MN
                      Buying & Selling Studebaker Parts in MN & WI

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        When I removed the bolts under the seat here's what I found. The bolt is 3.25" long and the other two things look like some kind of spacers to possible elevate the seat for the woman who owned the car for 41 years. Are these supposed to be there or should I replace these things with just a bolt that's about an inch long? Thanks for the help....





                        1950 Champion 2 Dr. Sedan

                        1949 Studebaker 2R5 half ton pickup...

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          After my previous post I went to the hardware store and bought 4 bolts an inch long and used them to bolt the seat back down using the front set of holes on the seat brackets. They went in with no problem and now I'm sitting 2" lower and 2" further back so it's a huge improvement. I guess the original female owner did have the seat elevated. Thanks to all who offered suggestions....



                          1950 Champion 2 Dr. Sedan

                          1949 Studebaker 2R5 half ton pickup...

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                          • #14
                            Thanks Henry. I'll pull the seat out and try tapping away. Appreciate the help.

                            1955 Champion Deluxe 2dr.
                            1955 Champion Deluxe 2dr.

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                            • #15
                              I had an extra seat frame and welded them to the existing legs. This allowed me to move the seat back 4 inches. Another thing to consider is to have a trm shop remove about 1 or two inches of "cushion" from the front seat, leavin the fabric intact on the top and taking up the slack frm underneath.

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