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dual brake conversion, M/C?

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  • dual brake conversion, M/C?

    Have a 64 Daytona w/Avanti discs and P/B. Customer wants it vonverted to dual braking system. Anyone have a reference Part number for a bolt-on M/C or am I going to have to fab an adaptor?
    Regards
    Ken Michael

  • #2
    Nostalgic Motors, Studebaker International or Jon Myer's should have complete conversions kits...everything required except for the effort to install it.




    Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, cocky and in general a malcontent.
    Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, cocky and in general a malcontent.

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    • #3
      Hi Ken:

      I have done this conversion several times. Use a 1 1/8 bore MC from 1967-1968 Dodge Monaco or Polara. EIS p/n E64874, or Raybestos MC36259.

      If car is equipped with windshield washer bottle, you'll have to relocate it, as the new master cyl is too long and takes up some of that space. Also, the push rod coming out of the booster must have a length adjustment. You must adjust it to .9 inches, precisely.

      If ya need more info, call me at 775-425-4868.

      Good luck,
      Larry

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      • #4
        I just did this last weekend with a kit from Dave Thibeault. Putting the master cylinder in is the easy part. Replumbing the brake lines at the front brass block will drive you nuts! The steering box is right in front of the brass block so the new line has to be bent into a tight curve right behind the nut on the line. I finally had to undo the bolt holding the brass block to the frame in order to get the new one threaded. I put a 360 degree loop in each line just under the new M/C to take up the extra line length and let me move the M/C off the booster, if I ever need to do that, without undoing the lines.

        A tip: buy three extra plugs for the master cylinder, one pipe plug for the brake light switch hole and two flared plugs for the line outlets. Then, fill the master cylinder on the workbench and "bench bleed" it before putting it in the car. The M/C will drip a bit when you pull the plugs and put the lines and switch in, but you'll have a lot less air to get rid off. I used a hand-held vacuum pump to bleed the lines.

        I nibbled a 0.900 inch "mouse hole" gauge from a sheet of thin aluminum to set the rod.

        [img=left]http://www.studegarage.com/images/indy/gary_indycar25_vvsm.jpg[/img=left] Gary Ash
        Dartmouth, Mass.
        '32 Indy car replica (in progress)
        '48 M5
        '65 Wagonaire Commander
        '63 Wagonaire Standard
        web site at http://www.studegarage.com
        Gary Ash
        Dartmouth, Mass.

        '32 Indy car replica (in progress)
        ’41 Commander Land Cruiser
        '48 M5
        '65 Wagonaire Commander
        '63 Wagonaire Standard
        web site at http://www.studegarage.com

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        • #5
          Great source of info :

          http://www.studebaker-info.org/rjtechx3.html#BRAKEMC

          Tom



          '63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires
          '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
          Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
          http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
          I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

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          • #6
            Thanks to all who contributed, the probem is solved thanks to your info.
            Ken Michael

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